Tiger Safari Holiday at Kanha

Tiger Safari Holiday at Kanha National Park.

Kanha is situated at Maikal Hills and the system is nurtured by tributaries of the Narmada River. The river originates from Amarkantak Resort at Maikal Hill and flows over 700 km to merge into the estuary of Baruch in Gujarat. Interestingly Makal Hills are a confluence of Vindhyan Hill north of MP and Satpura Hills south of Madhya Pradesh. Jabalpur is the the Center of India lying east towards Kanha National Park.

Maikal Hills are a part of Achanakmar Biosphere Reserve which comprise Amarkantak Forests and Achanakmar Tiger Reserve. Kanha is not part of the biosphere reserve but is contiguous with the origin of Maikal Hills and Achanakmar once forming a corridor for wild animals to translocate. Thus a large ecosystem was in place and formed a habitat for all life forms.  On the western side, the forests were connected with what are now Bandhavgarh, Sanjay Dubri, and Panna.

Some of the regions have been mentioned by James Forsyth in his book Central Indian Wildlife. This has become a sad story now since the contiguity is intruded on by human settlements, agriculture, and livestock. Among the isolated pockets, three popular ones are

• Kanha National Park
• Bandhavgarh National Park
• Panna National Park

These are situated in Madhya Pradesh while another reserve the birthplace of white tiger Sanjay Dubri has yet to face the limelight. It too is situated in Madhya Pradesh barely an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh.  

Kanha National Park

Most popular among all the National Parks is Kanha which is also a tiger reserve. It is home to more than 100 tigers, but the fame has come about due to saving the hard ground barasingha or swamp deer. It was a remarkable conservation initiative and made the park popular all over the World. From 66 heads the population now stands at over 600. To save the gene pool some animals have been translocated to other destinations.

The biodiversity is rich and improved after it turned into a conservation unit. All Central Indian mammals and reptiles are found here while more than 250 bird species can be checklisted.

Tourism at Kanha National Park

Twenty percent of the inviolate core is reserved for regulated tourism while the outer area or buffer is also open to tourism. Being the best place to see the tiger and other animals tourists throng in large numbers every year. But the entry is limited hence safaris or game rides should be booked in advance. Those planning a tiger safari holiday should thus book a tiger safari in advance. The safaris should be booked through MPOnline Portal belonging to Madhya Pradesh Government.

There are a large number of wildlife resorts outside the park that organize tiger safaris, rest and recreation. They range from budget to upscale properties.  

Kanha is best accessible from Jabalpur Airport in MP. It is well connected with the capital and all major towns. From the airport, the drive is three and a half hours only. Kanha Tiger Reserve is well connected by a road network. It is well connected by a rail network as well. The park is closed from 1st July and opens on 1st October.            

Tiger Safari In Hot Summer of May and June

Heat Rises in Mid-March and last till 15 June is monsoon is in time. The temperature rises to 42 degrees in shade and 45 degrees in direct sunlight. Otherwise, it gets delayed by mid-July. Mid-July Monsoon pours in. This is a nig relief and most of the herbivores breed in this season when there is plenty of grass to feed and produce milk. Most herbivores breed during monsoon when torrents of rain give new roots to shoots and green grass.

Torturous Months

By March water in rivers, ponds, and lakes start receding but there is still water left for wild animals to drink. As summer precedes some water bodies completely dry out while water is left. As water recedes further some water bodies are completely dry. Animals are dependent upon a few streams and trickles. Some man-made water bodies sustain water. Animals congregate in these spots and the predators follow them for easy kill. 

This has been seen at Ranthambore where tigers have learned to kill in water. They hide behind the bushes and make a rush at the sambar deer kill. After many a chase, they managed to kill. This was begun by Machli the famous tiger who mastered the art. She became the heroine of the park and many photographers and filmmakers began to make a beeline to capture these events. After Machli many tigers began to copy this hunting technique. This is a unique event and has become regular.

At Kanha, sentinels fill the saucer with water in a saucer made of cement. Tigers, leopards, langurs, small animals, and deer come to these saucers to quench their thirst. Thankfully Kanha is not as dry and places of water remain even in summer. But congregation does take place giving a chance to make an easy kill. Pench and Tadoba are drier and water has to be arranged for.

If you are a wildlife photographer this is the best time for photo tours if you can stand the heat. Animals congregate and offer the best time to make films. This is the best time for a tiger safari in India if you can bear the heat.

Remember to keep light khaki and stay in the AC room. Wildlife photographers can afford that.      

Why Madhya Pradesh is known as Tiger State? Why Tigers Abound Here

 Madhya Pradesh Tiger State

With a population of 526 Bengal tigers, Madhya Pradesh has wrestled the title from Karnataka which was leading in numbers since the last census in the year 2010. In that year, Karnataka registered a population of 408 big cats.  But the last census conducted in the year 2018 showed more big cats than ever in Madhya Pradesh. Although the number is minuscule whence compared with their population before the hunting began a few centuries back.   

Bengal Tiger

 

Central Indian Tiger Landscape

Central India for centuries has been a heavily forested State with more than 40% of the area under forest cover. It was connected by extensive corridors with tiger landscapes in the North and the East and down below right up to the tiger landscape of Southern India. The fluid passages acted as a safe conduit for the migration of big cats and their prey. 

The state encompasses Vindhya Range in the North  West, and the Satpura Hill Range forming a ridge below. Both ranges converge at Maikal Hills in the Amarkantak  Achanakmar Biosphere Reserve. The region known as the Highlands of Central India comprises inaccessible terrain that encompasses Steep cliffs and tabletop mountains scattered all over the region. This terrain is now home to Central India's tiger reserves namely:

• Panna National Park
• Bandhavgarh National Park
• Nauradehi Tiger Reserve
• Achankmar Tiger Reserve
• Kanha National Park
• Pench National Park
• Satpura Tiger Reserve 
• Rata Pani Tiger Reserve
• Sanjay Dubri Tiger Reserve 

Although these reserves are fragmented with non-existing weak corridors they hold a substantial population of big cats, and the numbers are rising. Tigers need inviolate areas to breed and hunt they are sensitive to human intrusion and agrarian practices that clear forests. The predator is an ambush hunter and cannot chase its prey like the cheetah or the lion. The animal cannot survive in the absence of a dense crown cover intermingled with bush country and tall grasses. It needs a good prey base and water supply from waterholes, rivers, lakes, etc. 

Madhya Pradesh is endowed with characteristics that tiger habitats should have hence the state is home to amazing tiger landscapes that can help breed and sustain large populations. The next best step would be the formation of corridors but that is a distant dream.  

Thus the high-level saturation of the tiger population is due to habitat formations that best suit the predator. There still exists some large contiguous areas that are connected by corridors still allow migration of the predators and the prey. Inaccessible terrain, dense crown cover, and plenty of prey base. Thus populations are flourishing wherever proper protection is provided to them. 

The ban on hunting by the Wildlife Protection Act 1972 and the formation of protected areas under the Project Tiger Program were highly successful all over India. This prevented hunting and poaching and provided them with inviolate areas where they could breed in peace.

A large sum of money is being pumped up into conservation. Fortunately, it is being generated from tiger tourism in the reserves. Tourists, holidaymakers, filmmakers, and photographers are regular visitors to these parks. Although the target species is the tiger they are also attracted by animals like the swamp deer, sloth bear, wild elephants, leopard, wolves, wild dogs, and even small predators and deer. 

Birding is also attracting a large number of visitors since these parks are home to more than two hundred avian species. Bird watching, and nature trails, are organized by luxury hotels using the services of a naturalist. The tiger reserves of Central India comprise excellent tourism infrastructure including the approach roads. 

Jabalpur Airport and Railhead in MP is the fulcrum from where you can easily approach these destinations. You can also approach some reserves from Nagpur Airport and Khajuraho Airport. Remember the park is closed during the monsoon due to slush formation on the roads. 

For excursions in the parks your need a safari permit for each ride. Book permits in advance since the jeep entry is limited. You can book a safari through the tour operator or at MPOnline. 

Tiger Tourism and Bandhavgarh National Park in Central India

Bandhavgarh National Park in Central India is a conservation unit chiefly focused on saving the critically endangered Bengal tiger. At Bandhavgarh tiger, tourism plays a major role in revenue generation. NTCA a government body sets guidelines for recreation in the park. The safaris are regulated and subject to terms and conditions shaped by several rules. The park is also a tiger reserve, and the conservation initiative is set by the forest department.

The regulations are under the advice of the Supreme Court of India and are subject to be implemented for tiger safaris. NTCA or National Tiger Conservation Authority is the guardian of the Project Tiger Program initiated by the Government of India.

The park is divided into the core or critical tiger habitat which is inviolate and no human settlement or any activities are allowed and the outer ring or buffer comprises villages, forests, and farmlands. Twenty percent of the core is subjected to tourism as demarcated by the local forest department. This area is subdivided into three zones and to visit each zone a safari permit issued by MP State Government is required. The permit is issued by the State Government of Madhya Pradesh. The open jeep safaris seat six people with a guide on a ride inside the core. Two game rides are conducted daily, one in the morning and the other in the evening.

How to Book Bandhavgarh Safari Permit?

The permits can be secured from the MPOnline website of the  State Government.  You have to decide which zone to visit in the morning or evening safari rides.  Do this much in advance, if you cannot decide then take advice from the hotel naturalist you are going to stay at in Bandhavgarh or seek advice from the manager of your tour operator in India.

To book a safari go online at the MPOnline website, here you need to fill out the form which requires you to submit personal details including those accompanying you on the jeep safari. A photo ID could be a passport or a driving license. You can choose the date, time, and zone and then make the payment if the slot is available. Make a payment online using a credit/debit card or Internet Banking. After the reservation has been completed take a printout of the permit. If you don't wish to take the trouble of online reservations then get your permits through the agent.

During the game rides, you have to carry a copy of the permit and your original passport or photo ID. All co-passengers will need to do the same. On the ride, you are allowed to carry a camera or a Handycam/binoculars but no guns or inflammable articles.

When on the safari the jeep keeps to the selected zone and cannot crossover into another zone. The canteen with toilet facilities is in a designated area meant for freshening up and brunch during the morning ride.

Remember, always reserve safari permits in advance as entry into the tourism zone is limited.  At Bandhavgarh National Park the maximum number of jeeps allowed in one zone is twenty-five as the park is smaller compared with many other National parks in Central India. 

For Hotel Accommodation in Bandhavgarh National Park A Choice Awaits

 Accommodations in Bandhavgarh 

Being one of the most popular tiger reserves in India, Bandhavgarh excels in wildlife tourism infrastructure. As a National Park and reserve, the focus is on tiger conservation, and the consequent efforts have led to an amazing comeback made by the critically endangered big cat species.

I remember, in the seventies, on my first visit there were no private accommodations, and the only proper place to stay was the Forest Rest House at Tala Village. Tigers though scarce were visible after much tracking. Tourism was focused on Tala Range comprising dense forests, mountain River Charanga, marshy grasslands, and plenty of prey for the big cats. Another unique aspect of the Tala Range was ancient remains dating 2000 years back. On your first safari, you will not fail to notice the crumbling ramparts of an ancient fort at the great heights of Bandhavgarh Fort. A portion of the wall is intact but access to the fort is not possible anymore as it is out of the tourism zone. 

Bandhavgarh National Park

Bandhavgarh is an esoteric paradise that epitomizes ancient mystical India. Well protected from the Mughal marauders, the park is home to many manmade caves, stables, courts, idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms, and pools.  Now covered in moss, lichens, and fungi, the structures nevertheless, strike awe and hold you transfixed in a perpetual state of trance. I remember, Shesh Shaiyya still comes in my dreams, the Lord lying peacefully near a fairy pool. The place is open for tourism in Tala Zone and is a must-visit. 

Bandhavgarh

Tigers of Bandhavgarh

"BADDY OR DADDY" if my memory serves well was already popular with a few tourists who entered the park on old rickety diesel jeeps in the seventies.  He found a mention in a popular Indian newspaper and sired many cubs. Most of the tigers we encountered during that period had no names but were as charismatic as they appeared with names later on. 

From being an unknown entity the park was slowly emerging from being totally inconspicuous on the tourism map, it was slated to be the most visited in Central India. As the population increased, tigers began rolling in, and the legendary tigress SITA was the result of the conservation initiative. As far as I remember Badka, Charger, Bamera, B1, B2, Mahaman tigress, Blueeyed, and many others highlighted tourism in the park.

Tiger's Den Resort

We often visited the park as tourism was cheap, and the forest resthouse was readily available. But things were changing as resorts began to pop up in the nineties. Tiger tourism was coming of age in India! Unfortunately, tourism took its toll and the sentinels and mahouts who sat around us to cheer up the fireplace in the evenings began to evade us as the tips came rolling in. Overseas visitors began to arrive in hordes, and the mahouts and the guides were amply rewarded.  

Hotels in Bandhavgarh 

From a single public accommodation, the place was expected to grow as tiger sightings increased. In the tiger reserves, tourism is always interdependent upon the possibility of sightings of the big cat, and to some extent connectivity by air, road, and rail. The destination was difficult to approach from Jabalpur and elsewhere because of bad road conditions, and the 200 km drive from Jabalpur Airport was a pain in the bums. 

 The roads are in excellent shape now and a large number of hotels have profligated the buffer zone of the park. Bandhavgarh provides ample opportunities to stay as per the budget. From single-room house accommodations to guest houses, and homestays you can choose sophisticated high-end resorts during the safari holidays. 

With the tourist boom, the number of hotels has boomeranged as well and new ones keep coming. You have a choice if you wish to spend money to stay in high-end star-category accommodations. These are expensive but deliver or you can choose semi-luxury resorts that charge around 100 USD per night stay.   

There are many fancy accommodations that specialize in hosting overseas visitors and the quality of services is good. These properties are experienced in hosting overseas visitors and are preferred by inbound tour operators.   Luxury hosts what to expect:

• Excellent Food
• Fine Dining 
• Spacious Rooms or Cottages 
• Native Architecture
• Cozy Ambience
• Serenity & Peace
• Green Environment 
• Pool 
• Parking 
• Naturalist Service 
• Jungle Safari Trips 
• Safari Booking 
• Bar (Few)
• Sauna (Few) 
• Barbecue (Few)
• Bush Dinners
• Bird Watching 
• Village Visits 
• Continental Food 
• Wait Service, & Host Interaction 

Every luxury property has a unique way of dealing with its hosts. There is one Tal Property at Bandhavgarh called Mahua Kothi which is a five-star getaway, and available for a high-end budget.  But generally, those preferred by the tour operators tend to come up to the expectations. There is a lot of information on the hotel websites of Bandhavgarh. You can authenticate by contacting the resort manager or a local tour operator or rely on referrals if you have any. A better option is to seek reviews on Tripadvisor. Many mid-range resorts are on the verge of closure or barely surviving post-covid-19 hence be careful. 

Some of the Good properties in Bandhavgarh as per TripAdvisor are: 

• Tiger Den Resorts
• MPTDC White Tiger Lodge
• Nature Heritage Resort
• Lemon Tree Resort
• Samode Safari Lodge
• Tree House Hideaway 
• Bundela Tiger Resorts 
• Infinity Resort

My stay at Tiger Den Resort has been most rewarding. It is a mid-price resort at Tala and takes good care of overseas guests and the domestic crowd. But you can choose from the list of luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh National Park. Make a wise decision, and your wild safari holiday would be a memorable experience. Most of the accommodations are situated around the Tala Village which is the main artery that connects the park with Jabalpur Airport. But the properties are spread out at a distance, especially the high-end ones. Take your time choosing the right property and settle for the best price. Avoid the festival rush and weekends.    

Remember to book safari permits in advance, before the limited entry is full. For online booking use MPOnline Portal. You can also request the hotel manager where you plan to stay to book safari permits for you.

Pench Tiger Resort is Old Mowgli Land in India

Seoni Hills are Now Pench Tiger Reserve

Kipling wrote a mesmerizing account of life in the jungles of Seoni in Central India. Now the state is known as Madhya Pradesh or MP. 

Sher Khan Tiger

In the eighteenth century there lived a boy completely naked and he spent most of the time in the company of the wolves. As the message spread and reached Kipling he penned the esoteric in a book called "Jungle Book". The story is now legendary and has been made into a film called "Jungle Book".  The rest is history.   

Jungle Home Pench

The popularity accorded to past endeavors has brought fame to the Seoooni Hills as Kipling called the place in India. The Seoni Hills are now Pench National Park and Tiger Reserve. This is where Mowgli roamed in the wild full of antics and was a confirmed foe of Sher Khan the tiger. Nevertheless, the reserve is as good a creation of nature as the book which the author wove so skillfully full of esoteric imagination tells us.     

The characters of Mowgli Land still survive in the wilderness and Sher Khan is the main attraction. In fact, this is a conservation unit under Project Tiger Program.  

Conservation here is the first priority seconded by tourism in twenty percent of the core area and now in the buffer as well.  As a major revenue earner tourism is regulated and permission in form of permits is required. It draws tourists from overseas as well as crowds from within the country.  

The permits for excursions are available online at MPOnline Portal belonging to the state government. The safaris are conducted on jeeps and on foot trekking is not allowed. The park's tourism area is divided into zones, and the permit restricts tourists to one zone unless it is for the full day. 

The big cat is surviving at Pench in good numbers and so are the other animals. Nilgai antelope, Sambar, Chital, barking deer, guar or bison, jackal, wild boar, boar, and langur monkey are common sites. Sloth bears, wild dogs, and leopards are infrequently seen. More than two hundred fifty species of birds make their home here, this includes the winter migrants who depart from March onward. The park is closed during the monsoon. 

Sound tourism infrastructure makes safari possible here. The buffer is home to a number of luxury resorts in Pench National Park in MP.  This outer ring offers varied accommodations ranging from high-end, luxury, and budget properties. The buffer is also home to the critically endangered wolf and can be seen with luck on safari. 

Seoni Township is fifty km from here on the way to Jabalpur Airport (200 km). The closest Airport is Nagpur in neighboring Maharashtra State. It is at a drive of ninety kilometers of good road.    

Bandhavgarh Untamed & Wild

Can the beauty last forever! This is what I think of the forests of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. The large contiguous patch of forests spread over the last leg of Vindhyan Hills as far as Sehora near Jabalpur. The forests in a state of denudation and plunder, still contain habitable patches of forests that sustain impressive wilderness including the tigers.   

Bandhavgarh

Tiger conservation albeit an impressive program can be myopic in execution if attention is paid only to the core or critical to tiger habitats. In order to give adequate space to tigers such that they multiply and survive in good numbers, all the forests an around have to be kept in a perfect state of preservation. Hence those patches of forests with lesser status need to be looked after very well. 

Bandhavgarh Grasslands 

To an average visitor, it is very difficult to understand the nature of big cats, especially their home range. The tigers do not understand management concepts and practices. For then any and every undisturbed forest is home. Hence under the Project Tiger Program, a large extent of forests is provided cover and benefits that accrue. Diverse wildlife and bird life find shelter under this program. The myriads of life forms flora and fauna constitute a wonderful ecosystem that unfailingly nurtures humanity.  

Male Tiger

Likewise, tigers survive in forests much beyond the Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve Core. They live in the buffer zone spanning a great distance. Some of the areas are in a perfect state of preservation while some are being denuded and plundered by loggers and poachers. Thankfully the latter is mitigated by constant patrolling but incidences do occur. 

Sloth Bear 

Charismatic & Picturesque is what these pristine forests are described as. They retain these characteristic attributes at many places. Even historical evidence found in the Tala Range can be found elsewhere scattered and forlorn. This also informs us of the extant Tribal Gond rule in the region.           

Tigers inhabit the most beautiful region in Central India. Beautiful rivers, tabletop mountains, marshy grasslands, enchanting glens, and pristine forests. These are the wonderlands of the wild World. 

Destinations like Bandhavgarh have to be preserved not only for the tigers but for humanity as a whole. These precious gems are in trouble thanks to unchecked development and mining, denudation, and advancing urbanity. Let's hope the weight age accorded to the tiger will indirectly help preserve the whole ecosystem/