Southern India comprises the
southern part of peninsular India. It encompasses the states of Andhra Pradesh,
Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and the newly carved state of Telangana. It also
encompasses the Union Territories of Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Puducherry,
and Lakshadweep Islands.
Wildlife of Southern
States
The regions are fed by many
important rivers that are the lifeline of the ecosystems prevailing in the
states. Abundant water sources have given a big boost to biodiversity in the
Deccan.
The major rivers are:
·Krishna
·Godavari
·Mahanadi
·Kaveri
The Southern States comprise
tremendous biodiversity, especially in the Eastern and Western Ghats and
adjoining areas. Western ghats comprise deciduous forests while tropical dry
forests and scrub lands are common in the interior Deccan Plateau.
The two ranges and forests in the
valleys are home to tigers, leopards, Nilgiri Tahr, Lion Tailed Macaque,
Sambar, spotted deer, mouse deer, Nilgiri Langurs, slow loris, pangolin,
elephant, grizzled giant squirrel, and many more. South India has more than
one-third of big cats and half the population of Indian elephants.
Some of the birds found in the
region are Malabar whistling thrush, Great hornbill, Ceylon frogmouth,
white-cheeked barbet, pearl-necked dove, Andaman dove, grey jungle fowl, heart
spotted woodpecker, white-bellied woodpecker, green billed malkoha, blue-faced
malkoha to name few.
Tiger Reserves
There are 14 tiger reserves in South India:
·Periyar Tiger Reserve
·Wayanad Tiger Reserve
·Nagarhole Tiger Reserve
·Bandipur Tiger Reserve
·Dandi Anshi Tiger Reserve
·Bhadra Tiger Reserve
·Mudumalai Tiger Reserve
·Anamalai Tiger Reserve
·Eravikulum National Parks
·Mukurthi National Park
These are the most popular tiger
reserves and home to many animals some of which are endemic. These are tiger
parks but there are many biodiversity hotspots home to enchanting wilderness.
Thus the parks attract large numbers of tourists every year. Periyar,
Nagarhole, Mukurthi, and Eravikulum reserves rank high on the popularity chart.
Many tour operators organize
wildlife tours of South India for tiger safari and birding. These are
well-organized tours and deliver without fail. Though the tiger is the essence
of these safaris there is much more to see and experience.
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Uday writes for Indiafootprints and many other tour companies. He is a naturalist and also provides SEO and content writing service.
Part of Central Indian Highlands so aptly described by James Forsyth in 18th Century Satpura National Park is a wildlife haven. At present, it is a stretch of forest that comprises 3000 sq. km and encompasses Pacharhi Hill Resort. The park lies in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh. Dhoopgarh is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh which is in Pachmarhi National Park. It is 1352 meters in elevation.
Satpura National Park is also a tiger reserve and is governed by the State Forest Department of Madhya Pradesh. The core area comprises 528 sq. km and along with Bori and Pachmarhi it forms a biosphere reserve. The name is derived from the Satpura Range which flanks South Eastern Park of Madhya Pradesh. On the North in Vindhya Range and both converge at Maikal Hills in the Amarkantak Hill Resort.
Wildlife of Satpura
The megafauna includes tiger, leopard, sambar deer, axis deer, barking deer, bison, wild boar, Nilgai, four-horned antelope, fox, jackal, giant squirrel, rusty jungle cat, chinkara, hyena, langur, rhesus macaque, and the sloth bear. Among the small mammals are the pangolin, Indian giant squirrel, three palm squirrels, porcupines, and civet cats. The diversity of the park ai amazing.
Birds of Satpura
There are more than 254 species of birds found at Satpura that include winter migrants. Some of the noted species are verditor flycatcher, shama, Malabar hornbill, racket-tailed drongo, orange-headed ground thrush, honey buzzard, crested hawk eagle, serpent eagle, paradise flycatcher, Malabar whistling thrush, black-naped flycatcher, jungle prinia, stonechat, spotted owlet, jungle owlet, grey jungle fowl, bar-headed geese, savanna nightjar, grey-headed fish eagle, grey hornbill, Indian skimmer, grey nightjar, Indian nightjar, pariah kite, white backed munia, red avadavat, gold fronted leaf bird, Jerdon's leaf bird, yellow wattled lapwing, red wattled lapwing, river lapwing, Eurasian wryneck, tawny eagle, steppe eagle, shikra and sparrow hawk.
Flora of Satpura
The tiger reserve has more than 62 species of trees, shrubs, and herbs. It has many grasslands that add to the biodiversity. Some of the species are Lynda, Sal, teak, dhain, harra, bahera, aonla, and more.
Tourism at Satpura
The park is divided among tourism zones that comprise 20% of the core. Tourism is conducted in both core zones and buffer zones. To make an excursion in the park you have to book a safari at Satpura at MPOnline. You can also book a safari at the gates if they are available. Hence you should book the safari in Advance.
Satpura is at a distance of 260 km from Jabalpur Airport and 190 km from Bhopal Airport. It is accessible from Pipariya Station on the Bombay Howarh line. It is well connected by road.
Heat Rises in Mid-March and last till 15 June is monsoon is
in time. The temperature rises to 42 degrees in shade and 45 degrees in direct
sunlight. Otherwise, it gets delayed by mid-July. Mid-July Monsoon pours in.
This is a nig relief and most of the herbivores breed in this season when there
is plenty of grass to feed and produce milk. Most herbivores breed during
monsoon when torrents of rain give new roots to shoots and green grass.
Torturous Months
By March water in rivers, ponds, and lakes start receding
but there is still water left for wild animals to drink. As summer precedes
some water bodies completely dry out while water is left. As water recedes
further some water bodies are completely dry. Animals are dependent upon a few
streams and trickles. Some man-made water bodies sustain water. Animals
congregate in these spots and the predators follow them for easy kill.
This has been seen at Ranthambore where tigers have learned
to kill in water. They hide behind the bushes and make a rush at the sambar
deer kill. After many a chase, they managed to kill. This was begun by Machli
the famous tiger who mastered the art. She became the heroine of the park and
many photographers and filmmakers began to make a beeline to capture these
events. After Machli many tigers began to copy this hunting technique. This is
a unique event and has become regular.
At Kanha, sentinels fill the saucer with water in saucers
made of cement. Tigers, leopards, langurs, small animals, and deer come to
these saucers to quench their thirst. Thankfully Kanha is not as dry and places
of water remain even in summer. But congregation does take place giving a
chance to make an easy kill. Pench and Tadoba are drier and water has to be
arranged for.
If you are a wildlife photographer this is the best time for
photo tours if you can stand the heat. Animals congregate and offer the best
time to make films. Remember to keep light khaki and stay in the AC room.
Wildlife photographers can afford that.
With more than 3000 tigers in India and a good network of tiger reserves, the country is proving one of the best places to photograph big cats. In India wildlife photographers and filmmakers have a greater choice to film and photograph the big cats. With over 52 tiger reserves they can accomplish their mission with ease.
Photography For Amateurs
For amateur filmmakers and photographers, a safari permit is enough. They can book safaris for morning and evening and shoot tigers as they chance upon. Many parks offer the facility of a full-day safari which though costly can bear rich fruits. In full-day safaris zone restrictions are not there and they can go anywhere. But all regular safari rules have to be followed. Besides the absence of zone restriction food has to be consumed at the interpretation centers or at places that are designated by park authorities. Even night safaris are open for the amateurs.
Professional Mission
But for professionals who need to venture into the park, apart from basic regulations extra permission is required. Professionals need to intrude into the forests, be photographed at night, and often work on foot. These are outside the purview of regular visitors.
Hence for extra facilities permission has to be taken from MOEF and PCCF of the state. Documentaries cannot be made on regular safaris hence privileges are required. These arrangements have to be made through a local wildlife tour operator. The local tour operator makes all the arrangements before the venture commences.
The professionals need local help and these are experienced guides, helpers, and amateur photographers. They know the terrain well and have a fair idea of the movement of tigers. They can assist in many other ways. This team is organized by the local or National tour operator as well. In India getting special permissions is time-consuming and costly. Hence tour operators' assistance is indispensable.
Professional filmmakers and photographers need to carry heavy and costly equipment and this has to be transported through customs and local transportation this could be time-consuming and costly. Nevertheless, the end result is rewarding. Thus all arrangements have to be made in advance for a tiger photo tour in India.
James Forsyth first pitched his tent in the dense canopy at Satpura
National Park. If you visit Pachmarhi you are sure to visit the cottage that
has been turned into a museum commemorative the huntsman and naturalist. The
unimaginably rugged and torturous landscape was inhabited by various tribes.
Forsyth perhaps was the first outsider to venture into the deep confines.
His foray into the Central Indian Highlands was not only to survey the
terrain, he keenly studied the local communities their customs, and more while
stationed in these dense forests. Unfortunately, his observations benefitted
the outside world but he shot down many wild creatures.
As you read the book you realize that the author was not an
accomplished writer, but nevertheless, his accounts are fascinating. His
interpretation of what he experienced while staying at Satpuras has been
scripted in a romantic manner but his reference to tribal and local communities
is much wanting. His rating of locals is at best low and he does not hesitate to
mention them as unintelligent people trapped in obscurantism.
James Forsyth was an allrounder. Besides being an adventurer he knew
geography, natural history, and wildlife. His accounts of what he experienced
have been aptly recorded in his book "Highlands of Central
India." Get hold of the book if you
can to dig into past communities and wilderness.
Satpura Tiger Reserve
Satpura National Park and tiger reserve is the core of the Satpura
Range and encompasses Bori Sanctuary and Pachmari Hill Resort. Together they
for the Satpura Biosphere Reserve comprising around 3000 sq. Km. Satpura range is the core area while Bori and
Pachmarhi are buffer zones. The reserve is home to 52 species of mammals, 300
species of birds, and 31 species of reptiles. The targetted species are Malabar
Whistling Thrush, Orange-headed ground thrush, racket-tailed drongo, and
hornbills.
The floral element comprises Sal, teak, dhawa, kosum, bel, aonla,
bamboo, mahua, and many more.
The park comprises:
1339.26 sq. Km core
794.04 sq. KN buffer
2133.40 TOTAL area.
Tourism takes place from Madai a small township near Hosgabad. To reach
the core tourists have to take a motorboat ride over the River Denwa this is a
short ride lasting a few minutes. The safari begins after crossing the river.
Like all reserves in MP, a tiger safari permit is required. You can
book a safari permit for Satpura Tiger Reserve online or at the gate. During
the rush time, permits are not available at the gate hence it is wiser to book
online. a permit is required. You
can book a safari permit for Satpura Tiger Reserve online or at the gate. During
the rush time, permits are not available at the gate hence it is wiser to book
online.
The only broad-leaf
forest situated in North Western Madhya Pradesh is a veritable paradise on
earth. Bottomless ravines, grasslands, and dense teak forests define this tiger
landscape. After the complete extinction of tigers and poachers perhaps in connivance
with forest guard the population of big cats was completely wiped out.
Amazing conservative
initiatives there are now more than 28 tigers in the park. The safari has begun
and the big cat sightings are good. The terrain is now recovered and wild animals
too have made a comeback with improvement in the ecosystem.
Panna is home to
tigers, leopards, sloth bears, Nilgai, wolf, hyena, and many other animals. It
is rich in birdlife including the Himalayan vultures, white-backed vultures,
Egyptian vultures, long-billed vultures, and the Monk Vulture. Among other bird
species, the tiger reserve is home to Shama, verditor flycatcher, orange-headed
ground thrush, grey hornbill, Oriental pied hornbill, black-naped monarch, and
more.
Panna National Park
Ensconced in Vindiyan
Hill Range it becomes contiguous with the Satpura Range at Mailkal Hills. Kanha
and Achanakmar also meet here. The area of the park is 542.67 sq. Km. Along
with Ken River Sanctuary forms a catchment area for the Ken River which is the park's lifeline. The river system is home to marsh crocodiles and the
gharial besides many other aquatic forms of life.
The National Park and
surrounding forest are the only remaining chunks of broad-leaf forests in North
Western Madhya Pradesh. These are the only forests home to wild animals rest of
the area is barren.
The destination was
declared a tiger reserve in 1994/5. Most of all rather all the big cats have
been translocated which has been a great success.
Safari at Panna
National Park
Tourism is organized
twice a day one at the start of the dawn and the other in the evening at dusk.
The park is divided into tourism zones in twenty percent of the core area of
the park. To avail of game rides one needs a permit. This permit fortiger safari permit at Panna is obtained at MPOnline an MP Government Portal. You can also
avail permit at the gate if available. My advice is to book online as there is
a rush and you may be left out.
Panna is only 26 km
from Khajuraho Airpot and that is the best way to reach the National Park from
New Delhi.
Kanha is situated at Maikal Hills and the system is nurtured
by tributaries of the Narmada River. The river originates from Amarkantak
Resort at Maikal Hill and flows over 700 km to merge into the estuary of Baruch
in Gujarat. Interestingly Makal Hills are a confluence of Vindhyan Hill north
of MP and Satpura Hills south of Madhya Pradesh. Jabalpur is the the Center of
India lying east towards Kanha National Park.
Maikal Hills are a part of Achanakmar Biosphere Reserve
which comprise Amarkantak Forests and Achanakmar Tiger Reserve. Kanha is not
part of the biosphere reserve but is contiguous with the origin of Maikal Hills
and Achanakmar once forming a corridor for wild animals to translocate. Thus a
large ecosystem was in place and formed a habitat for all life forms. On the western side, the forests were
connected with what are now Bandhavgarh, Sanjay Dubri, and Panna.
Some of the regions have been mentioned by James Forsyth in
his book Central Indian Wildlife. This has become a sad story now since the contiguity
is intruded on by human settlements, agriculture, and livestock. Among the
isolated pockets, three popular ones are
Kanha National Park
Bandhavgarh National Park
Panna National Park
These are situated in Madhya Pradesh while another reserve
the birthplace of white tiger Sanjay Dubri has yet to face the limelight. It
too is situated in Madhya Pradesh barely an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh.
Kanha National Park
Most popular among all the National Parks is Kanha which is
also a tiger reserve. It is home to more than 100 tigers, but the fame has come
about due to saving the hard ground barasingha or swamp deer. It was a
remarkable conservation initiative and made the park popular all over the
World. From 66 heads the population now stands at over 600. To save the gene
pool some animals have been translocated to other destinations.
The biodiversity is rich and improved after it turned into a
conservation unit. All Central Indian mammals and reptiles are found here while
more than 250 bird species can be checklisted.
Tourism at Kanha National Park
Twenty percent of the inviolate core is reserved for
regulated tourism while the outer area or buffer is also open to tourism. Being
the best place to see the tiger and other animals tourists throng in large
numbers every year. But the entry is limited hence safaris or game rides should
be booked in advance. Those planning a tiger safari holiday should thus book a
tiger safari in advance. The safaris should be booked through MPOnline Portal
belonging to Madhya Pradesh Government.
There are a large number of wildlife resorts outside the park that organize tiger safaris, rest and recreation. They range from budget to upscale properties.
Kanha is best accessible from Jabalpur Airport in MP. It is
well connected with the capital and all major towns. From the airport, the
drive is three and a half hours only. Kanha Tiger Reserve is well connected by
a road network. It is well connected by a rail network as well. The park is
closed from 1st July and opens on 1st October.
Heat Rises in Mid-March and last
till 15 June is monsoon is in time. The temperature rises to 42 degrees in
shade and 45 degrees in direct sunlight. Otherwise, it gets delayed by
mid-July. Mid-July Monsoon pours in. This is a nig relief and most of the herbivores
breed in this season when there is plenty of grass to feed and produce milk.
Most herbivores breed during monsoon when torrents of rain give new roots to
shoots and green grass.
Torturous Months
By March water in rivers, ponds,
and lakes start receding but there is still water left for wild animals to
drink. As summer precedes some water bodies completely dry out while water is
left. As water recedes further some water bodies are completely dry. Animals
are dependent upon a few streams and trickles. Some man-made water bodies
sustain water. Animals congregate in these spots and the predators follow them
for easy kill.
This has been seen at Ranthambore
where tigers have learned to kill in water. They hide behind the bushes and
make a rush at the sambar deer kill. After many a chase, they managed to kill.
This was begun by Machli the famous tiger who mastered the art. She became the
heroine of the park and many photographers and filmmakers began to make a
beeline to capture these events. After Machli many tigers began to copy this
hunting technique. This is a unique event and has become regular.
At Kanha, sentinels fill the
saucer with water in a saucer made of cement. Tigers, leopards, langurs, small
animals, and deer come to these saucers to quench their thirst. Thankfully
Kanha is not as dry and places of water remain even in summer. But congregation
does take place giving a chance to make an easy kill. Pench and Tadoba are
drier and water has to be arranged for.
If you are a wildlife
photographer this is the best time for photo tours if you can stand the heat.
Animals congregate and offer the best time to make films. This is the best time for a tiger safari in India if you can bear the heat.
Remember to keep
light khaki and stay in the AC room. Wildlife photographers can afford
that.
With a population of 526 Bengal tigers, Madhya Pradesh has wrestled the title from Karnataka which was leading in numbers since the last census in the year 2010. In that year, Karnataka registered a population of 408 big cats. But the last census conducted in the year 2018 showed more big cats than ever in Madhya Pradesh. Although the number is minuscule whence compared with their population before the hunting began a few centuries back.
Bengal Tiger
Central Indian Tiger Landscape
Central India for centuries has been a heavily forested State with more than 40% of the area under forest cover. It was connected by extensive corridors with tiger landscapes in the North and the East and down below right up to the tiger landscape of Southern India. The fluid passages acted as a safe conduit for the migration of big cats and their prey.
The state encompasses Vindhya Range in the North West, and the Satpura Hill Range forming a ridge below. Both ranges converge at Maikal Hills in the Amarkantak Achanakmar Biosphere Reserve. The region known as the Highlands of Central India comprises inaccessible terrain that encompasses Steep cliffs and tabletop mountains scattered all over the region. This terrain is now home to Central India's tiger reserves namely:
Although these reserves are fragmented with non-existing weak corridors they hold a substantial population of big cats, and the numbers are rising. Tigers need inviolate areas to breed and hunt they are sensitive to human intrusion and agrarian practices that clear forests. The predator is an ambush hunter and cannot chase its prey like the cheetah or the lion. The animal cannot survive in the absence of a dense crown cover intermingled with bush country and tall grasses. It needs a good prey base and water supply from waterholes, rivers, lakes, etc.
Madhya Pradesh is endowed with characteristics that tiger habitats should have hence the state is home to amazing tiger landscapes that can help breed and sustain large populations. The next best step would be the formation of corridors but that is a distant dream.
Thus the high-level saturation of the tiger population is due to habitat formations that best suit the predator. There still exists some large contiguous areas that are connected by corridors still allow migration of the predators and the prey. Inaccessible terrain, dense crown cover, and plenty of prey base. Thus populations are flourishing wherever proper protection is provided to them.
The ban on hunting by the Wildlife Protection Act 1972 and the formation of protected areas under the Project Tiger Program were highly successful all over India. This prevented hunting and poaching and provided them with inviolate areas where they could breed in peace.
A large sum of money is being pumped up into conservation. Fortunately, it is being generated from tiger tourism in the reserves. Tourists, holidaymakers, filmmakers, and photographers are regular visitors to these parks. Although the target species is the tiger they are also attracted by animals like the swamp deer, sloth bear, wild elephants, leopard, wolves, wild dogs, and even small predators and deer.
Birding is also attracting a large number of visitors since these parks are home to more than two hundred avian species. Bird watching, and nature trails, are organized by luxury hotels using the services of a naturalist. The tiger reserves of Central India comprise excellent tourism infrastructure including the approach roads.
Jabalpur Airport and Railhead in MP is the fulcrum from where you can easily approach these destinations. You can also approach some reserves from Nagpur Airport and Khajuraho Airport. Remember the park is closed during the monsoon due to slush formation on the roads.
For excursions in the parks your need a safari permit for each ride. Book permits in advance since the jeep entry is limited. You can book a safari through the tour operator or at MPOnline.
Being one of the most popular tiger reserves in India, Bandhavgarh excels in wildlife tourism infrastructure. As a National Park and reserve, the focus is on tiger conservation, and the consequent efforts have led to an amazing comeback made by the critically endangered big cat species.
I remember, in the seventies, on my first visit there were no private accommodations, and the only proper place to stay was the Forest Rest House at Tala Village. Tigers though scarce were visible after much tracking. Tourism was focused on Tala Range comprising dense forests, mountain River Charanga, marshy grasslands, and plenty of prey for the big cats. Another unique aspect of the Tala Range was ancient remains dating 2000 years back. On your first safari, you will not fail to notice the crumbling ramparts of an ancient fort at the great heights of Bandhavgarh Fort. A portion of the wall is intact but access to the fort is not possible anymore as it is out of the tourism zone.
Bandhavgarh National Park
Bandhavgarh is an esoteric paradise that epitomizes ancient mystical India. Well protected from the Mughal marauders, the park is home to many manmade caves, stables, courts, idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms, and pools. Now covered in moss, lichens, and fungi, the structures nevertheless, strike awe and hold you transfixed in a perpetual state of trance. I remember, Shesh Shaiyya still comes in my dreams, the Lord lying peacefully near a fairy pool. The place is open for tourism in Tala Zone and is a must-visit.
Bandhavgarh
Tigers of Bandhavgarh
"BADDY OR DADDY" if my memory serves well was already popular with a few tourists who entered the park on old rickety diesel jeeps in the seventies. He found a mention in a popular Indian newspaper and sired many cubs. Most of the tigers we encountered during that period had no names but were as charismatic as they appeared with names later on.
From being an unknown entity the park was slowly emerging from being totally inconspicuous on the tourism map, it was slated to be the most visited in Central India. As the population increased, tigers began rolling in, and the legendary tigress SITA was the result of the conservation initiative. As far as I remember Badka, Charger, Bamera, B1, B2, Mahaman tigress, Blueeyed, and many others highlighted tourism in the park.
Tiger's Den Resort
We often visited the park as tourism was cheap, and the forest resthouse was readily available. But things were changing as resorts began to pop up in the nineties. Tiger tourism was coming of age in India! Unfortunately, tourism took its toll and the sentinels and mahouts who sat around us to cheer up the fireplace in the evenings began to evade us as the tips came rolling in. Overseas visitors began to arrive in hordes, and the mahouts and the guides were amply rewarded.
Hotels in Bandhavgarh
From a single public accommodation, the place was expected to grow as tiger sightings increased. In the tiger reserves, tourism is always interdependent upon the possibility of sightings of the big cat, and to some extent connectivity by air, road, and rail. The destination was difficult to approach from Jabalpur and elsewhere because of bad road conditions, and the 200 km drive from Jabalpur Airport was a pain in the bums.
The roads are in excellent shape now and a large number of hotels have profligated the buffer zone of the park. Bandhavgarh provides ample opportunities to stay as per the budget. From single-room house accommodations to guest houses, and homestays you can choose sophisticated high-end resorts during the safari holidays.
With the tourist boom, the number of hotels has boomeranged as well and new ones keep coming. You have a choice if you wish to spend money to stay in high-end star-category accommodations. These are expensive but deliver or you can choose semi-luxury resorts that charge around 100 USD per night stay.
There are many fancy accommodations that specialize in hosting overseas visitors and the quality of services is good. These properties are experienced in hosting overseas visitors and are preferred by inbound tour operators. Luxury hosts what to expect:
Excellent Food
Fine Dining
Spacious Rooms or Cottages
Native Architecture
Cozy Ambience
Serenity & Peace
Green Environment
Pool
Parking
Naturalist Service
Jungle Safari Trips
Safari Booking
Bar (Few)
Sauna (Few)
Barbecue (Few)
Bush Dinners
Bird Watching
Village Visits
Continental Food
Wait Service, & Host Interaction
Every luxury property has a unique way of dealing with its hosts. There is one Tal Property at Bandhavgarh called Mahua Kothi which is a five-star getaway, and available for a high-end budget. But generally, those preferred by the tour operators tend to come up to the expectations. There is a lot of information on the hotel websites of Bandhavgarh. You can authenticate by contacting the resort manager or a local tour operator or rely on referrals if you have any. A better option is to seek reviews on Tripadvisor. Many mid-range resorts are on the verge of closure or barely surviving post-covid-19 hence be careful.
Some of the Good properties in Bandhavgarh as per TripAdvisor are:
Tiger Den Resorts
MPTDC White Tiger Lodge
Nature Heritage Resort
Lemon Tree Resort
Samode Safari Lodge
Tree House Hideaway
Bundela Tiger Resorts
Infinity Resort
My stay at Tiger Den Resort has been most rewarding. It is a mid-price resort at Tala and takes good care of overseas guests and the domestic crowd. But you can choose from the list of luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh National Park. Make a wise decision, and your wild safari holiday would be a memorable experience. Most of the accommodations are situated around the Tala Village which is the main artery that connects the park with Jabalpur Airport. But the properties are spread out at a distance, especially the high-end ones. Take your time choosing the right property and settle for the best price. Avoid the festival rush and weekends.
Remember to book safari permits in advance, before the limited entry is full. For online booking use MPOnline Portal. You can also request the hotel manager where you plan to stay to book safari permits for you.
Kipling wrote a mesmerizing account of life in the jungles of Seoni in Central India. Now the state is known as Madhya Pradesh or MP.
Sher Khan Tiger
In the eighteenth century there lived a boy completely naked and he spent most of the time in the company of the wolves. As the message spread and reached Kipling he penned the esoteric in a book called "Jungle Book". The story is now legendary and has been made into a film called "Jungle Book". The rest is history.
Jungle Home Pench
The popularity accorded to past endeavors has brought fame to the Seoooni Hills as Kipling called the place in India. The Seoni Hills are now Pench National Park and Tiger Reserve. This is where Mowgli roamed in the wild full of antics and was a confirmed foe of Sher Khan the tiger. Nevertheless, the reserve is as good a creation of nature as the book which the author wove so skillfully full of esoteric imagination tells us.
The characters of Mowgli Land still survive in the wilderness and Sher Khan is the main attraction. In fact, this is a conservation unit under Project Tiger Program.
Conservation here is the first priority seconded by tourism in twenty percent of the core area and now in the buffer as well. As a major revenue earner tourism is regulated and permission in form of permits is required. It draws tourists from overseas as well as crowds from within the country.
The permits for excursions are available online at MPOnline Portal belonging to the state government. The safaris are conducted on jeeps and on foot trekking is not allowed. The park's tourism area is divided into zones, and the permit restricts tourists to one zone unless it is for the full day.
The big cat is surviving at Pench in good numbers and so are the other animals. Nilgai antelope, Sambar, Chital, barking deer, guar or bison, jackal, wild boar, boar, and langur monkey are common sites. Sloth bears, wild dogs, and leopards are infrequently seen. More than two hundred fifty species of birds make their home here, this includes the winter migrants who depart from March onward. The park is closed during the monsoon.
Sound tourism infrastructure makes safari possible here. The buffer is home to a number of luxury resorts in Pench National Park in MP. This outer ring offers varied accommodations ranging from high-end, luxury, and budget properties. The buffer is also home to the critically endangered wolf and can be seen with luck on safari.
Seoni Township is fifty km from here on the way to Jabalpur Airport (200 km). The closest Airport is Nagpur in neighboring Maharashtra State. It is at a drive of ninety kilometers of good road.
Can the beauty last forever! This is what I think of the forests of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. The large contiguous patch of forests spread over the last leg of Vindhyan Hills as far as Sehora near Jabalpur. The forests in a state of denudation and plunder, still contain habitable patches of forests that sustain impressive wilderness including the tigers.
Bandhavgarh
Tiger conservation albeit an impressive program can be myopic in execution if attention is paid only to the core or critical to tiger habitats. In order to give adequate space to tigers such that they multiply and survive in good numbers, all the forests an around have to be kept in a perfect state of preservation. Hence those patches of forests with lesser status need to be looked after very well.
Bandhavgarh Grasslands
To an average visitor, it is very difficult to understand the nature of big cats, especially their home range. The tigers do not understand management concepts and practices. For then any and every undisturbed forest is home. Hence under the Project Tiger Program, a large extent of forests is provided cover and benefits that accrue. Diverse wildlife and bird life find shelter under this program. The myriads of life forms flora and fauna constitute a wonderful ecosystem that unfailingly nurtures humanity.
Male Tiger
Likewise, tigers survive in forests much beyond the Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve Core. They live in the buffer zone spanning a great distance. Some of the areas are in a perfect state of preservation while some are being denuded and plundered by loggers and poachers. Thankfully the latter is mitigated by constant patrolling but incidences do occur.
Sloth Bear
Charismatic & Picturesque is what these pristine forests are described as. They retain these characteristic attributes at many places. Even historical evidence found in the Tala Range can be found elsewhere scattered and forlorn. This also informs us of the extant Tribal Gond rule in the region.
Tigers inhabit the most beautiful region in Central India. Beautiful rivers, tabletop mountains, marshy grasslands, enchanting glens, and pristine forests. These are the wonderlands of the wild World.
Destinations like Bandhavgarh have to be preserved not only for the tigers but for humanity as a whole. These precious gems are in trouble thanks to unchecked development and mining, denudation, and advancing urbanity. Let's hope the weight age accorded to the tiger will indirectly help preserve the whole ecosystem/
Thankfully no more! Ranthambhore National Park was the hunting grounds of the Maharajahs of Jaipur. But all that changed whence legislation was passed in 1972. No more hunting wild animals! This was a blessing in disguise augured by our Honourable PM Mrs. Indira Gandhi wildlife conservation in India got a big boost a much-needed respite from ruthless slaughter. Overnight history pages turned into the right folds.
Well, the Maharajahs too turned into conservationists well most of them and began to conserve the inheritance. In Ranthambhore, one comes across many structures that belong to the days of yore. The Rajputs were valiant fighters but they were creative architects as well. Not only that their love for music and fine arts has left an indelible impression on Indian culture.
Ranthambhore is a conservation unit known as a tiger reserve. It is home to more than forty-five tigers living in an area of 1334 sq. km. The area is biodiversity rich and supports many forms of life. Some of the major mammals seen here are the tiger, leopard, sloth bear, Nilgai, sambar deer, and spotted deer. Among the reptiles python and marsh, crocodiles are seen.
Ranthambore is home to many avian species and is a delight for the birding fraternity.
The safaris are conducted on open jeeps and canters which have to be booked in advance. The route taken is as per the zone mentioned in the permit. On safari, not only wild animals but the whole ecosystem is experienced. Besides the remains of forts and temples can also be witnessed.
The stupendous landscape is admired the most. The backdrop of forest-clad hills and the presence of a large number of lakes beside small grasslands create an enchanting landscape.
Ranthambore is situated at Sawai Madhopur about 100 plus km from Jaipur and Kota in Rajasthan. The easy accessibility from New Delhi invites many visitors every year. In order to provide accommodation to the visitor a large number of hotels and resorts reside at Sawai Madhopur. The properties are luxurious but there are some budget properties as well. High-End properties belong to the five-star and heritage class suitable for a stay in the wilderness.
Highly popular in the tourist circuit Ranthambore tiger safaris are very much in demand. The permits for excursions are booked much in advance. For those visiting the National Park, they should do all their bookings much in advance.
One of the oldest National Parks of Maharashtra in India Tadoba incidentally happens to be the largest. The total area of the tiger reserve is 1727 sq. km. The core area is 625.40 sq. km and the rest is buffer.
The forests were the home of the Gond Tribe who worship their chieftain called Taru of Tadoba. Taru worshipped as God died at the hands of a tiger whom he fought valiantly. Hence the legendary figure is revered and the park is named Tadoba after him.
The present-day tiger reserve is a combination of Andhari River Forests and Tadoba National Park created in 1955. The area is biodiversity rich both in terms of flora and fauna. The indicator species is the tiger albeit other predators like the leopard, hyena, and jackal are frequently seen. The Tadoba Lake is home to many crocodiles, turtles, and fish. Wetland and shore birds can be seen here in large numbers some of which are winter migrants. The abundance of avian species makes this tiger reserve attractive for birders although a greater number of tourists and wildlife photographers come here to see the tiger in the wild.
Bison, Nilgai and four-horned antelope, spotted deer, sambar, and barking deer are the main prey base. Also common are the langur monkey and the wild boar. A sloth bear is a delightful sight, especially with cubs on its back. No wonder Tadoba is one of the most delightful tiger safari destinations in India.
Tourism is drawing a large number of holidaymakers and wildlife photographers every year. To support the visitors a large number of wildlife resorts provide accommodation. One can find luxury as well as budget resorts for a comfortable stay.
Tiger safaris are organized on open jeeps but an entry permit is a prerequisite. The entry permits are allocated per the tourism zone. The permits can be obtained near the gates and often with the help resort that is providing accommodation to you.
All in all not much trouble for tourists. To explore Tadoba National Park be well prepared. Complete booking formalities before you arrive. Take the assistance of the tour operator or the resort manager. The park is closed from July 1st to October 15th every year.
The best way to reach Tadoba is from Nagpur Airport at a distance of one hundred fifty km. Nagpur is well connected by Air, Rail, and Road with Mumbai. It is connected by Air from New Delhi.
From the coming season, the new vehicle entry rates will apply. The parks will open on 16th October as usual.
Kanha and Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve tourism zones have been changed and upgraded.
At Kanha, the Kanha Zone is notified as premium and its charges are:
Rs.1500 for Indians and Rs.3000 for foreigners. Besides this guide fees filming fee, etc will also apply.
Other zones are Mukki & Sarhi Gates.
At Bandhavgarh, the vehicle entry fee is Rs.2000 for Indians and Rs. 4000 for foreigners. This is for Tala Zone which is premium.
Other Zones are Panpatha, Khitauli, and Magadhi Zones.
Jeep hire is extra for that contact manager of your accommodation in the tiger reserve.
Access to zones may be from outside so leave in advance and be prepared to pay more for an extra ride to reach the gates.
Each Wednesday evening safaris are closed, so schedule village/school tours for this day evening.
In the notification by the forest department, no tariff is given for nonpremium zones. Visit MP Online for more information. There is vehicle restriction inside the park hence book your gate entry in advance. This can be done at MP Online.
Though I am not citing a confirmed report, it is obvious that rates will go up. I have heard from a hotelier in Bandhavgarh about the increase in gate fees in all Central Indian Tiger Reserves. For a long time, the administration was intent on increasing gate fees and all related fees. How much increase there is yet to be seen by the author.
This is necessary as the cost has gone up as they are bound to. Even the jeep safari rates have gone up which is understood. The rates of petrol affect the transportation cost all over India hence the tiger reserve.
Will this impact tourism in our tiger reserves?
Well yes and no!
The rich will continue to come here and enjoy their wildlife holidays in larger numbers. The tigers and their habitat receive tremendous publicity in wildlife magazines and on TV. This diverts more and more people towards tiger tourism in India.
But the increasing cost of the tours will certainly affect the middle class and those below. The major impact will be on the hotels and resorts since not all cater to upscale tourists. Most of the accommodation will be stressed.
The negative aspect is that nature should be witnessed by a wide spectrum of society. It is quite understood that visitors begin to understand nature close and develop a more practical approach towards it and its conservation. A lot of Indian tourists who visit these preserves on a budget are going to be deprived of this eye-opening experience and miss out on this amazing inheritance. This applies to budget travelers from foreign soils as well. The negative impact of increased safari costs will make tiger tourism appear to be a prerogative of the wealthy. This will certainly create antipathy toward these parks among the have not’s.
For school-going children a park visit is a learning experience and is vital for them. These very kids will grow up with a positive attitude towards the environment and all other life forms.
Some way has to be found out in order to invite less privileged people sans some privileges. Another answer is to open up more wildlife sanctuaries for tourism with proper infrastructure development. But are we very good at finding solutions to problems, take the case of tiger conservation in India?
The last tiger census showed an increase in the tiger population. This was heartening but the increase was not impressive by any means. More the Madhya Pradesh Forest Minister was not happy with the state figures.
The tigers have been declining in numbers in MP. The decline is more because the census methods have been improved. They are no longer at the mercy of the whims and fantasies of the park authorities. The recounting exercise carried out by the state government showed a minor increase. But this was more an ego-boosting exercise rather than a serious conjecture of what is happening.
Panna was the first shocker and the falling numbers in other tigers' reserves are suggestive of some major issues. What we should keep in mind is that the ground situation may have gone worse. Disturbance in and around the reserves and the incidence of poaching cannot be ruled out.
Hence a proactive corrective stance is needed more than the counting exercise. Tiger conservation is important if we wish to save this wonderful apex mammal. Much depends on how we perceive this importance and go all out to save the species. India still retains the largest population of tigers in the wild. Let us get the ball rolling fetch and upswing scenario rather than the prevailing downslide.
The most efficient hunting species became the most hunted. Ironically the animal lost since he stood no match for the hunting prowess of man a superior species?? Since the early days, tiger hunting was a regular activity. Prehistoric man could have killed the tiger due to rivalry or for food.
As human civilization progressed hunting became more advanced with metal weapons, snares, traps, spears, bows and arrows, and whatnot. Gradually guns came into the picture, and this was catastrophic for forests all over the World. With this weaponry, it was easy to kill tigers as well as other species. Guns wreaked havoc on wildlife and they lost a lot of ground.
Tiger hunting in the later period was not just happening as it is an elusive animal. The Shikaris or hunters deployed varied methods in order to bring down this magnificent beast. The Maharajahs and British Aristocrats hunted tigers on elephant backs. They also resorted to Haka where a large number of drummers and noise makers exposed the big cat. The commotion brought out the cat from its hiding and was easily killed by waiting hunters. Another method deployed was baiting. A goat or a buffalo calf was tied to a tree in an area frequented by big cats. A machine or hideout on the tree top was then built for the hunters so that they could wait for the tiger to arrive. The Baiga tribe of Madhya Pradesh would hang a tiger's kill midway on a horizontal pole. Difficult to grasp in order to reach the kill the animal would often fall on sharpened bamboo spikes. He would be injured seriously or die instantly.
For as little as fifty rupees one could get a license to shoot a tiger in a forest block in India. All these methods succeeded in decimating the tiger and leopard populations in alarming proportions.
Hunting is different from poaching. Since the legislation in 1971 hunting, in any wildlife form is prohibited in India. It is banned as a sport though illegal hunting does go on here and there. The global wildlife trade increased to dangerous levels of demand for tiger bones in Chinese medicine and exotic pet lovers who keep wild animals, butterflies, and birds in their homes. Thousands perhaps millions of birds and butterflies are being caged in order to fulfill a sickening desire for a wild pet or stuffed specimens at home.
Poaching is more deadly it is the gruesome face of merciless hunters and traders who would do anything for money. They resort to the utmost cruel methods of killing big cats. Traps, snares, poison, guns, and spears all are painkillers. Most of the poachers like Bel Pardhis of Madhya Pradesh are hunter-gatherers and hence experts in the job.
Though it is illegal to kill tigers in India many instances have occurred right under the administration's nose. Panna and Sariska are an example. Poaching could be occurring still in reserves where patrolling and surveillance are weak. Man-animal conflict is another big problem especially when cattle lifting happens. The animal faces the ire of the locals and the prey is poisoned. The death of tigers and leopards is very painful and torturous in such circumstances.
We can contribute by discouraging medicine or cosmetics made of animal parts. We should shun all those who keep exotic animals as pets without conservation cause.
Shiva was touching eleven feet and weighed perhaps five tons whence it killed two people in Kanha. This was perhaps the first such tragic incident in the National Park. The elephant was in an aggressive state of musth whence its mahout was transferred to control wild elephants in Sarguja District.
Elephants play a major role in the tiger reserves of India. Ecologically they are destructive in reserves that are not natural elephant habitats. Bandhavgarh Gate is the best example of how these pachyderms have ravaged the forests. There is no historical record of these animals in the wilds of Madhya Pradesh. In such places, they should be fed more and should not be allowed to forage in the forests extensively.
Anyway, their role in tiger reserves is to help patrol and protect from poachers. They are the prime attraction during the safaris whence the parks are open. Tiger show - much criticized in the past- is the best method to show tourists the magnificent animal in the wild.
Elephants are captured in Eastern and Southern India using various methods. They are then sold to buyers and are trained by elephant riders or mahouts. This might be not legal now. The training starts right from a young age. At Bandhavgarh I have experienced a young male being trained by the mahout it is a grilling exercise but definitely not cruel. Incidentally, I was there whence a calf was born at the reserve. It was for the first time in the history of the tiger reserves that a birth had taken place in captivity.
Elephants in Central Indian tiger reserves are a prominent feature. In the tiger show, the tiger is traced by the elephants and mahouts and then cordoned off. The tourist then rides on the elephant back up to the spot and is brought back. It is a short ride but fulfills many a dream of sighting a tiger in the wild as well as sitting on the huge beast. The most interesting part is how the huge beast traverses through dense forests and engaged in active conversation with its rider.
Most of the preserves have six to eight tame elephants which provide yeomen services. The pachyderms though tame have a wild instinct in them forever. They are like family members of the mahout for lifelong. There is a strong bond between the animal and its rider. It is an intelligent animal and very useful.
I saw my first male tiger in Bandhavgarh National Park in the seventies. The place was called Kill Khunta, since bait was usually tied there to attract tigers. The baiting practice was thankfully stopped but the tigers do not go hungry at all. In that dusky twilight, I could see one of nature's marvelous creations. The awe and admiration have never ceased since.
Back from the brink of disaster, the little paradise was not throbbing with tigers as conservation practice had just been put in place. The aftermath of reckless hunting had come to a stop and recovery was on the way. Though isolated and fragmented, the reserve retained its glorious ancient past and amazing Sal forests.
There were few visitors, and the accommodation was limited to the Maharani's Kothi for the privileged and the Forest/PWDR.H - rest house.
Eventually, MPTDC stepped in and established the White Tiger Lodge. Then more tourists started to arrive with propaganda so created. The tourism infrastructure had been put in place with a number of elephants for rides. The jungle roads were being maintained. This was the hunting reserve of the erstwhile Maharajas of Rewa. It was the largest Kingdom in India during the post-independence period.
The discovery of white tigers in the adjacent forests had already opened the floodgates of popularity. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve is situated in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. It is one of the finest places to see the tiger in the wild. The preserve is one of the most picturesque destinations - a little tiger haven tucked away in the deep recess of India's wild heartland. Under the project tiger, the area covered is about 1100 sq. km including the neighboring Pan Patha Wildlife Sanctuary. The core now constitutes 600 plus sq. km as against 145 or so earlier.
On our earlier visits, we could count around 60 plus heads of gaur or Indian Bison. Gradually we saw the numbers dwindle till the end came somewhere in the nineties. This was a major blow to the habitat, the loss of a coarse grazer was irreparable. Rinderpest & FPL was the scourge carried by maddening numbers of livestock in the periphery. Though some gaur has been relocated from Kanha recently, we have to wait for success.
It was obvious from the sightings that the prey base was increasing. The sightings also confirmed that big cats in the park were on the increase. In a few years, the reserve was a conservation success - it still is.
Another noticeable fact was the increasing number of tourists as well as the hotel resorts. The park became the number one tourist draw thanks to a high density of tigers. The core area of the park is the finest habitat for cats. Due to the slush and grass in swampy marshy areas hunting was easy.
The village relocation had taken place from within the core and some were due which eventually did not happen - Kalwa & Magdi. The edaphic grasslands left by the tribal communities inside were overtaken by the prey base. This was like bounty from heaven since the grass was much-wanted fodder for the deer and the bison.
Ruins
The remains of ancient civilizations added luster to the splendorous jungle resort. The ancient man-made caves still exist with petroglyphs and Brahmi script on the walls. The forests experienced many warring civilizations throughout, as history unfolded. The dynasties left their marks on the ruins which are now ruled thankfully by the big cats. The place since evolution belonged to the wild denizens later intruded on by humans.
The ancient ruins add an esoteric touch to the wildlife haven. Sesh Shaiyya on the way to Bandhavgarh Hillock is right out of the fairy tale. Its pristine surroundings and springs are in reality best described as fairy tale settings. The reclining statue of Lord Vishnu beside the pond makes it a place of religious importance for the locals.
On the way up are a number of zoomorphic statues of Lord Visnu some towering. Matsya Avatar - Varah Avatar and so on. The Laxman Temple sits atop the hill facing the beautiful grasslands valleys and neighboring mountains. Picturesque indeed! The Bandhavgarh Hill is steep and about 800m MSL. the hillock are an ideal breeding ground for Long Billed Vulture.
Bandhavgarh Fort at the top lies in ruins arch, a man-made reservoir, statues, and temple remains are littered all over. The remains boast of exquisite and colorful sculptural practice & art of ancient India. They are an archeological find dating back two thousand years in the recess of this old country.
The plateau is extensive and gives one an eerie feeling a spread of ruined civilization, tall grasslands, and a haunting specter of open spaces, mystical and esoteric as of the pristine wild country. The alarm cry or the tiger roar can be unnerving as I have experienced often.
Priest & Tiger
The Old Brahmin Pujari was a legendary figure. He walked about 11 km to the Laxman Temple, under the care of his family, since the Maharajas were ordained. He must have been the most familiar figure for the tigers that walked aside from him. He once told me that his meetings with tigers were often and it was you go your way and I go my way affair, strictly. He died a natural death and I believe his son has taken over.
Hills Glens & Rivers
Mahaman, Chur Bohera, Raj Bohera, Bathan are well-preserved grasslands. Their rivers crisscross Johilla, Charanganga, and Umrar. Must-visit for tiger sightings and landscape are Badi Gufa, Ghoda Damen, 10 No.GUFA and Andheri Jhiriya. The terrain is torturous and at places very steep. The safari is exciting over steep climbs, across grasslands and river beds the cliff tower over you all the time.
Forests
The abundance of SAL is evident but the park encompasses some of the finest bamboo slopes and mixed forests. The canopy is dense but withers as one moves along the periphery due to wood logging in the buffer.
Buffer
Once a large contiguous tract of the forest the park is now isolated. Neighboring forests are Pan Patha, Gunghuti and the Sihora Forest ranges at some distance. the forests leading to Amarkantak and Achanakmar belts have been badly denuded hence there is no migration path for any species. All around the reserve forest are in a bad state and hence tiger habitat has been reduced. There are villages surrounding the buffer and within with a large number of livestock. Except for tourism alternative means of survival have not been explored.
Tiger Safari
Tourism in the tiger reserves of Central India is monitored and well-managed. I have seen tiger tourism grow from infancy and simultaneously the wildlife has increased as well. Tourism has benefited local communities which were until then dependent upon infertile lands. The need for accommodation has brought in many hotels. The established hotels of Bandhavgarh employ a large number of youth. Most of these are from the local communities. Many get employment in the forest department as guides, chara cutters, guards and naturalists, etc. Plus the park is a nature library many tourists come and go with a greater understanding of nature, admiration for other life forms, and a desire to conserve valuable heritage.
The Tiger
It has been one hell of a journey for the beleaguered animal. It has been ignominiously pushed back to small pockets along with associates. We have never ceased to destroy nature, we have overpowered other life forms and taken their land away. The majestic cat is a silent and helpless observer as the axe continues to ravage his kingdoms all over the country.
