Pench Tiger Resort is Old Mowgli Land in India

Seoni Hills are Now Pench Tiger Reserve

Kipling wrote a mesmerizing account of life in the jungles of Seoni in Central India. Now the state is known as Madhya Pradesh or MP. 

Sher Khan Tiger

In the eighteenth century there lived a boy completely naked and he spent most of the time in the company of the wolves. As the message spread and reached Kipling he penned the esoteric in a book called "Jungle Book". The story is now legendary and has been made into a film called "Jungle Book".  The rest is history.   

Jungle Home Pench

The popularity accorded to past endeavors has brought fame to the Seoooni Hills as Kipling called the place in India. The Seoni Hills are now Pench National Park and Tiger Reserve. This is where Mowgli roamed in the wild full of antics and was a confirmed foe of Sher Khan the tiger. Nevertheless, the reserve is as good a creation of nature as the book which the author wove so skillfully full of esoteric imagination tells us.     

The characters of Mowgli Land still survive in the wilderness and Sher Khan is the main attraction. In fact, this is a conservation unit under Project Tiger Program.  

Conservation here is the first priority seconded by tourism in twenty percent of the core area and now in the buffer as well.  As a major revenue earner tourism is regulated and permission in form of permits is required. It draws tourists from overseas as well as crowds from within the country.  

The permits for excursions are available online at MPOnline Portal belonging to the state government. The safaris are conducted on jeeps and on foot trekking is not allowed. The park's tourism area is divided into zones, and the permit restricts tourists to one zone unless it is for the full day. 

The big cat is surviving at Pench in good numbers and so are the other animals. Nilgai antelope, Sambar, Chital, barking deer, guar or bison, jackal, wild boar, boar, and langur monkey are common sites. Sloth bears, wild dogs, and leopards are infrequently seen. More than two hundred fifty species of birds make their home here, this includes the winter migrants who depart from March onward. The park is closed during the monsoon. 

Sound tourism infrastructure makes safari possible here. The buffer is home to a number of luxury resorts in Pench National Park in MP.  This outer ring offers varied accommodations ranging from high-end, luxury, and budget properties. The buffer is also home to the critically endangered wolf and can be seen with luck on safari. 

Seoni Township is fifty km from here on the way to Jabalpur Airport (200 km). The closest Airport is Nagpur in neighboring Maharashtra State. It is at a drive of ninety kilometers of good road.    

Table Land Bandhavgarh & Kanha

The tiger reserves in Central India are unique with diverse terrain - typically rising and falling. The undulating terrain creates niche habitats often extensive.

While Bandhavgarh, North of Narmada is situated on the fringe of Vindhya Hill Range the forest extends to meet Achanakmar wildlife sanctuary which is partially contiguous with Kanha. Maikal Hill Range of Satpuda extends into Maharastra where Melghat Tiger Reserve is situated. Kanha is partially contiguous with Pench Tiger Reserve in Satpuda/Satpura Hills. This was once a contiguous forest patch spreading more than five thousand sq km.

Described as Central Indian Highlands By James Forsyth, the reserves are the true tiger havens. The topography accords bewildering diversity to floral elements which in turn creates habitats for multitudinous life forms. Once flourishing with tigers and Central Indian mammals the preserves have been brought back from certain denudation and catastrophe by conservation programs.

Though the forests have been reduced due to continuous wood logging in the past, the pristine forests still retain their glory.

Short hills and tablelands are unique to all tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh albeit the degree may vary slightly. Hillocks at Kanha called Dadars, are not as steep as some are in Bandhavgarh - more cliffs than mountains. The walls of the cliffs at places are steep and rocky and provide excellent nesting grounds for vultures and eagles.

Bahmni Dadar at Kanha and Bandhavgarh Hill at Bandhavgarh have large tablelands or plateaus. The floral elements vary at every climb eventually giving rise to a spectacular scape at the top. As you move up these mountains, a change in the canopy is evident. The slopes covered with bamboo give rise to a more complex mix of herbs, shrubs, vines, and mixed forests. The ecosystem differs from the grounds below.

Rather than chasing tigers in the meadows, these plateaus offer new grounds for exploration. Less seen species of birds and mammals could be sighted on these tabletop mountains.

The plateau is flat mostly edaphic grasslands with scattered tree lines. In Kanha, I have seen the four-horned deer often at Bamni Dadar though no record is found in the plains. Out of reach, these are perfect breeding grounds and shelters for tigers. This could be one reason for the high fecundity seen in these tiger reserves. Tigers in plains adjoining the villages are more susceptible to disease and poaching.

Bison or Gaur retreat to the hillside and perhaps the plateau during a verdant season in winter as they are coarse feeders. Unfortunately, the bovine is extinct in Bandhavgarh.

The plateau at Bandhavgarh and Kanha are worth exploring on jungle safari in the parks. A holistic insight into the wildlife and the ecosystem is the way to enjoy these tiger havens. The pristine forests have so much to offer that a lifetime is not enough.

Bandhavgarh fort plateau, Ghoda Damn, Cave No 10, and Bamni Dadar at Kanha are must-visits on a long-haul stay.

Tourism at Bandhavgarh

Well known for its tigers and wildlife safaris Bandhavgarh is the most picturesque resort in the World. Not as large as Kanha or Pench it is quintessentially a tiger reserve. The density of tigers is the highest here. It is the topography that supports tigers the best. The topography comprises steep hills and hillocks with tableland at the top. The diversity of life forms is worth observing.

In between are deep glens with forested slopes, rivers, and grasslands. The terrain does not permit human movement in many places. There are many inaccessible areas some of which are motorable but tourists rarely go there. The inaccessibility has prevented human encroachment. This has been one of the reasons for the eventual survival of the tigers at Bandhavgarh. The prey base is excellent and the marshy grasslands are ideal hunting grounds for dominant tigers.

Like Kanha, the park offers the best chance to see the tiger in the wild on a jeep safari. The tourism zone comprises marshy grasslands where tigers abound. They can be seen in broad daylight by chance. The dense canopy of the forested regions offers little chance to see the tiger since there is plenty of covers.

The tigers are everywhere even near the resorts in Bandhavgarh National Park. They can be seen with luck on road to Tala and near some villages. There are incidences of man-animal conflict and the animal is the sufferer. There are many villages yet to be relocated from within the park.

Tiger Safari

Tiger safari is conducted in the core zone of the park. There are two safaris in the jungle early morning and late evening. There are now two entrance gates but the Tala Gate is very popular. The road runs parallel to the Charanganga River offering a good chance to sight the big cat, especially in summer. There is a split at some juncture one jungle road leads to Chur Bohera meadow. This is again a good spot to see the tigers in the wild. Wildlife safaris in Bandhavgarh Jungle would now be route based for individual vehicles. This is good and prevents the concentration of vehicles in one spot.

One can score Mahaman and Raj Bohera for some exciting moments. Waiting patiently at Gopal Talao and other water bodies could fetch some exciting mammal sightings including the tiger. On jeep, safari silence is the rule and keen eyes are a necessity. This is essential to catch sight of wild animals or hear telltale signs of their presence. Pug mark trekking is also good but by the time you have come across the mark, the tiger has already slithered away.

Having a holistic experience is an essential way of holidaying at tiger reserves and National Parks in India. The jungle has so much to offer in terms of wildlife sightings, birding, and soothing calm in a pristine environment.

Wildlife & Tourism

Other animals to be seen at Bandhavgarh are Leopard, Sambar Deer, Spotted Deer, Wild Dog, Barking Deer, Sloth Bear, Four Horned Deer, Langurs, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Jackal, Fox, and Rhesus Macaque. A night safari outside the park could yield small mammals, civet cats, ratel, and porcupines. Night safaris are not allowed inside the preserve. Pythons and other reptiles are seen with luck.

Nilgai is often seen at Bathan but Hyenas and Indian Wolf are scared... I have never seen them at the scrub outside the park. The nature preserve offers the finest birding opportunity for forest birds and often some wetland birds.

Places of interest are the ancient Bandhavgarh Fort, temples, stables, Sesh Shaiyya, man-made caves with ancient Brahmi script, and zoomorphic avatars of Lord Vishnu.

The tourism infrastructure is well set in the reserve. The safaris are regulated by the forest department. It is a must to hire a park guide on safaris. At the gates, the fee is charged on a per-vehicle basis and a separate fee has to be paid for filming equipment - cameras, videos, and movie cameras. There is a wildlife interpretation center at Tala Gate. Tala village is a small shopping center and eatables are available.

The jeeps are available for hire most of the hotels in Bandhavgarh arrange jeep safaris. Hence those on the jungle plan benefit a lot. There are many hotels, wildlife resorts, and lodges outside the preserve. The rates are for all budgets - super luxury to budget accommodation.

Season

The park opens in October and closes in June end. All time is a good time to holiday at this reserve but avoid the holiday season especially major festivals.

The winters are very cold hence warm clothing, hand gloves, and headgear is a must. Summer is hot...not for those who cannot bear the heat.

How to Reach

The park can be reached by 5 hrs drive from Jabalpur by road and rail (Umaria). Jabalpur is connected by air to New Delhi. Overnight train from New Delhi - Utkal Express reaches Umaria in the morning. This railhead is about 32 km from the park gate.

Plan your safaris well and enjoy the most exciting heart throbbing wildlife holiday ever.