Part of Central Indian Highlands so aptly described by James Forsyth in 18th Century Satpura National Park is a wildlife haven. At present, it is a stretch of forest that comprises 3000 sq. km and encompasses Pacharhi Hill Resort. The park lies in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh. Dhoopgarh is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh which is in Pachmarhi National Park. It is 1352 meters in elevation.
Satpura National Park is also a tiger reserve and is governed by the State Forest Department of Madhya Pradesh. The core area comprises 528 sq. km and along with Bori and Pachmarhi it forms a biosphere reserve. The name is derived from the Satpura Range which flanks South Eastern Park of Madhya Pradesh. On the North in Vindhya Range and both converge at Maikal Hills in the Amarkantak Hill Resort.
Wildlife of Satpura
The megafauna includes tiger, leopard, sambar deer, axis deer, barking deer, bison, wild boar, Nilgai, four-horned antelope, fox, jackal, giant squirrel, rusty jungle cat, chinkara, hyena, langur, rhesus macaque, and the sloth bear. Among the small mammals are the pangolin, Indian giant squirrel, three palm squirrels, porcupines, and civet cats. The diversity of the park ai amazing.
Birds of Satpura
There are more than 254 species of birds found at Satpura that include winter migrants. Some of the noted species are verditor flycatcher, shama, Malabar hornbill, racket-tailed drongo, orange-headed ground thrush, honey buzzard, crested hawk eagle, serpent eagle, paradise flycatcher, Malabar whistling thrush, black-naped flycatcher, jungle prinia, stonechat, spotted owlet, jungle owlet, grey jungle fowl, bar-headed geese, savanna nightjar, grey-headed fish eagle, grey hornbill, Indian skimmer, grey nightjar, Indian nightjar, pariah kite, white backed munia, red avadavat, gold fronted leaf bird, Jerdon's leaf bird, yellow wattled lapwing, red wattled lapwing, river lapwing, Eurasian wryneck, tawny eagle, steppe eagle, shikra and sparrow hawk.
Flora of Satpura
The tiger reserve has more than 62 species of trees, shrubs, and herbs. It has many grasslands that add to the biodiversity. Some of the species are Lynda, Sal, teak, dhain, harra, bahera, aonla, and more.
Tourism at Satpura
The park is divided among tourism zones that comprise 20% of the core. Tourism is conducted in both core zones and buffer zones. To make an excursion in the park you have to book a safari at Satpura at MPOnline. You can also book a safari at the gates if they are available. Hence you should book the safari in Advance.
Satpura is at a distance of 260 km from Jabalpur Airport and 190 km from Bhopal Airport. It is accessible from Pipariya Station on the Bombay Howarh line. It is well connected by road.
Heat Rises in Mid-March and last till 15 June is monsoon is
in time. The temperature rises to 42 degrees in shade and 45 degrees in direct
sunlight. Otherwise, it gets delayed by mid-July. Mid-July Monsoon pours in.
This is a nig relief and most of the herbivores breed in this season when there
is plenty of grass to feed and produce milk. Most herbivores breed during
monsoon when torrents of rain give new roots to shoots and green grass.
Torturous Months
By March water in rivers, ponds, and lakes start receding
but there is still water left for wild animals to drink. As summer precedes
some water bodies completely dry out while water is left. As water recedes
further some water bodies are completely dry. Animals are dependent upon a few
streams and trickles. Some man-made water bodies sustain water. Animals
congregate in these spots and the predators follow them for easy kill.
This has been seen at Ranthambore where tigers have learned
to kill in water. They hide behind the bushes and make a rush at the sambar
deer kill. After many a chase, they managed to kill. This was begun by Machli
the famous tiger who mastered the art. She became the heroine of the park and
many photographers and filmmakers began to make a beeline to capture these
events. After Machli many tigers began to copy this hunting technique. This is
a unique event and has become regular.
At Kanha, sentinels fill the saucer with water in saucers
made of cement. Tigers, leopards, langurs, small animals, and deer come to
these saucers to quench their thirst. Thankfully Kanha is not as dry and places
of water remain even in summer. But congregation does take place giving a
chance to make an easy kill. Pench and Tadoba are drier and water has to be
arranged for.
If you are a wildlife photographer this is the best time for
photo tours if you can stand the heat. Animals congregate and offer the best
time to make films. Remember to keep light khaki and stay in the AC room.
Wildlife photographers can afford that.
James Forsyth first pitched his tent in the dense canopy at Satpura
National Park. If you visit Pachmarhi you are sure to visit the cottage that
has been turned into a museum commemorative the huntsman and naturalist. The
unimaginably rugged and torturous landscape was inhabited by various tribes.
Forsyth perhaps was the first outsider to venture into the deep confines.
His foray into the Central Indian Highlands was not only to survey the
terrain, he keenly studied the local communities their customs, and more while
stationed in these dense forests. Unfortunately, his observations benefitted
the outside world but he shot down many wild creatures.
As you read the book you realize that the author was not an
accomplished writer, but nevertheless, his accounts are fascinating. His
interpretation of what he experienced while staying at Satpuras has been
scripted in a romantic manner but his reference to tribal and local communities
is much wanting. His rating of locals is at best low and he does not hesitate to
mention them as unintelligent people trapped in obscurantism.
James Forsyth was an allrounder. Besides being an adventurer he knew
geography, natural history, and wildlife. His accounts of what he experienced
have been aptly recorded in his book "Highlands of Central
India." Get hold of the book if you
can to dig into past communities and wilderness.
Satpura Tiger Reserve
Satpura National Park and tiger reserve is the core of the Satpura
Range and encompasses Bori Sanctuary and Pachmari Hill Resort. Together they
for the Satpura Biosphere Reserve comprising around 3000 sq. Km. Satpura range is the core area while Bori and
Pachmarhi are buffer zones. The reserve is home to 52 species of mammals, 300
species of birds, and 31 species of reptiles. The targetted species are Malabar
Whistling Thrush, Orange-headed ground thrush, racket-tailed drongo, and
hornbills.
The floral element comprises Sal, teak, dhawa, kosum, bel, aonla,
bamboo, mahua, and many more.
The park comprises:
1339.26 sq. Km core
794.04 sq. KN buffer
2133.40 TOTAL area.
Tourism takes place from Madai a small township near Hosgabad. To reach
the core tourists have to take a motorboat ride over the River Denwa this is a
short ride lasting a few minutes. The safari begins after crossing the river.
Like all reserves in MP, a tiger safari permit is required. You can
book a safari permit for Satpura Tiger Reserve online or at the gate. During
the rush time, permits are not available at the gate hence it is wiser to book
online. a permit is required. You
can book a safari permit for Satpura Tiger Reserve online or at the gate. During
the rush time, permits are not available at the gate hence it is wiser to book
online.
The only broad-leaf
forest situated in North Western Madhya Pradesh is a veritable paradise on
earth. Bottomless ravines, grasslands, and dense teak forests define this tiger
landscape. After the complete extinction of tigers and poachers perhaps in connivance
with forest guard the population of big cats was completely wiped out.
Amazing conservative
initiatives there are now more than 28 tigers in the park. The safari has begun
and the big cat sightings are good. The terrain is now recovered and wild animals
too have made a comeback with improvement in the ecosystem.
Panna is home to
tigers, leopards, sloth bears, Nilgai, wolf, hyena, and many other animals. It
is rich in birdlife including the Himalayan vultures, white-backed vultures,
Egyptian vultures, long-billed vultures, and the Monk Vulture. Among other bird
species, the tiger reserve is home to Shama, verditor flycatcher, orange-headed
ground thrush, grey hornbill, Oriental pied hornbill, black-naped monarch, and
more.
Panna National Park
Ensconced in Vindiyan
Hill Range it becomes contiguous with the Satpura Range at Mailkal Hills. Kanha
and Achanakmar also meet here. The area of the park is 542.67 sq. Km. Along
with Ken River Sanctuary forms a catchment area for the Ken River which is the park's lifeline. The river system is home to marsh crocodiles and the
gharial besides many other aquatic forms of life.
The National Park and
surrounding forest are the only remaining chunks of broad-leaf forests in North
Western Madhya Pradesh. These are the only forests home to wild animals rest of
the area is barren.
The destination was
declared a tiger reserve in 1994/5. Most of all rather all the big cats have
been translocated which has been a great success.
Safari at Panna
National Park
Tourism is organized
twice a day one at the start of the dawn and the other in the evening at dusk.
The park is divided into tourism zones in twenty percent of the core area of
the park. To avail of game rides one needs a permit. This permit fortiger safari permit at Panna is obtained at MPOnline an MP Government Portal. You can also
avail permit at the gate if available. My advice is to book online as there is
a rush and you may be left out.
Panna is only 26 km
from Khajuraho Airpot and that is the best way to reach the National Park from
New Delhi.
Being one of the most popular tiger reserves in India, Bandhavgarh excels in wildlife tourism infrastructure. As a National Park and reserve, the focus is on tiger conservation, and the consequent efforts have led to an amazing comeback made by the critically endangered big cat species.
I remember, in the seventies, on my first visit there were no private accommodations, and the only proper place to stay was the Forest Rest House at Tala Village. Tigers though scarce were visible after much tracking. Tourism was focused on Tala Range comprising dense forests, mountain River Charanga, marshy grasslands, and plenty of prey for the big cats. Another unique aspect of the Tala Range was ancient remains dating 2000 years back. On your first safari, you will not fail to notice the crumbling ramparts of an ancient fort at the great heights of Bandhavgarh Fort. A portion of the wall is intact but access to the fort is not possible anymore as it is out of the tourism zone.
Bandhavgarh National Park
Bandhavgarh is an esoteric paradise that epitomizes ancient mystical India. Well protected from the Mughal marauders, the park is home to many manmade caves, stables, courts, idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms, and pools. Now covered in moss, lichens, and fungi, the structures nevertheless, strike awe and hold you transfixed in a perpetual state of trance. I remember, Shesh Shaiyya still comes in my dreams, the Lord lying peacefully near a fairy pool. The place is open for tourism in Tala Zone and is a must-visit.
Bandhavgarh
Tigers of Bandhavgarh
"BADDY OR DADDY" if my memory serves well was already popular with a few tourists who entered the park on old rickety diesel jeeps in the seventies. He found a mention in a popular Indian newspaper and sired many cubs. Most of the tigers we encountered during that period had no names but were as charismatic as they appeared with names later on.
From being an unknown entity the park was slowly emerging from being totally inconspicuous on the tourism map, it was slated to be the most visited in Central India. As the population increased, tigers began rolling in, and the legendary tigress SITA was the result of the conservation initiative. As far as I remember Badka, Charger, Bamera, B1, B2, Mahaman tigress, Blueeyed, and many others highlighted tourism in the park.
Tiger's Den Resort
We often visited the park as tourism was cheap, and the forest resthouse was readily available. But things were changing as resorts began to pop up in the nineties. Tiger tourism was coming of age in India! Unfortunately, tourism took its toll and the sentinels and mahouts who sat around us to cheer up the fireplace in the evenings began to evade us as the tips came rolling in. Overseas visitors began to arrive in hordes, and the mahouts and the guides were amply rewarded.
Hotels in Bandhavgarh
From a single public accommodation, the place was expected to grow as tiger sightings increased. In the tiger reserves, tourism is always interdependent upon the possibility of sightings of the big cat, and to some extent connectivity by air, road, and rail. The destination was difficult to approach from Jabalpur and elsewhere because of bad road conditions, and the 200 km drive from Jabalpur Airport was a pain in the bums.
The roads are in excellent shape now and a large number of hotels have profligated the buffer zone of the park. Bandhavgarh provides ample opportunities to stay as per the budget. From single-room house accommodations to guest houses, and homestays you can choose sophisticated high-end resorts during the safari holidays.
With the tourist boom, the number of hotels has boomeranged as well and new ones keep coming. You have a choice if you wish to spend money to stay in high-end star-category accommodations. These are expensive but deliver or you can choose semi-luxury resorts that charge around 100 USD per night stay.
There are many fancy accommodations that specialize in hosting overseas visitors and the quality of services is good. These properties are experienced in hosting overseas visitors and are preferred by inbound tour operators. Luxury hosts what to expect:
Excellent Food
Fine Dining
Spacious Rooms or Cottages
Native Architecture
Cozy Ambience
Serenity & Peace
Green Environment
Pool
Parking
Naturalist Service
Jungle Safari Trips
Safari Booking
Bar (Few)
Sauna (Few)
Barbecue (Few)
Bush Dinners
Bird Watching
Village Visits
Continental Food
Wait Service, & Host Interaction
Every luxury property has a unique way of dealing with its hosts. There is one Tal Property at Bandhavgarh called Mahua Kothi which is a five-star getaway, and available for a high-end budget. But generally, those preferred by the tour operators tend to come up to the expectations. There is a lot of information on the hotel websites of Bandhavgarh. You can authenticate by contacting the resort manager or a local tour operator or rely on referrals if you have any. A better option is to seek reviews on Tripadvisor. Many mid-range resorts are on the verge of closure or barely surviving post-covid-19 hence be careful.
Some of the Good properties in Bandhavgarh as per TripAdvisor are:
Tiger Den Resorts
MPTDC White Tiger Lodge
Nature Heritage Resort
Lemon Tree Resort
Samode Safari Lodge
Tree House Hideaway
Bundela Tiger Resorts
Infinity Resort
My stay at Tiger Den Resort has been most rewarding. It is a mid-price resort at Tala and takes good care of overseas guests and the domestic crowd. But you can choose from the list of luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh National Park. Make a wise decision, and your wild safari holiday would be a memorable experience. Most of the accommodations are situated around the Tala Village which is the main artery that connects the park with Jabalpur Airport. But the properties are spread out at a distance, especially the high-end ones. Take your time choosing the right property and settle for the best price. Avoid the festival rush and weekends.
Remember to book safari permits in advance, before the limited entry is full. For online booking use MPOnline Portal. You can also request the hotel manager where you plan to stay to book safari permits for you.
Can the beauty last forever! This is what I think of the forests of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve. The large contiguous patch of forests spread over the last leg of Vindhyan Hills as far as Sehora near Jabalpur. The forests in a state of denudation and plunder, still contain habitable patches of forests that sustain impressive wilderness including the tigers.
Bandhavgarh
Tiger conservation albeit an impressive program can be myopic in execution if attention is paid only to the core or critical to tiger habitats. In order to give adequate space to tigers such that they multiply and survive in good numbers, all the forests an around have to be kept in a perfect state of preservation. Hence those patches of forests with lesser status need to be looked after very well.
Bandhavgarh Grasslands
To an average visitor, it is very difficult to understand the nature of big cats, especially their home range. The tigers do not understand management concepts and practices. For then any and every undisturbed forest is home. Hence under the Project Tiger Program, a large extent of forests is provided cover and benefits that accrue. Diverse wildlife and bird life find shelter under this program. The myriads of life forms flora and fauna constitute a wonderful ecosystem that unfailingly nurtures humanity.
Male Tiger
Likewise, tigers survive in forests much beyond the Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve Core. They live in the buffer zone spanning a great distance. Some of the areas are in a perfect state of preservation while some are being denuded and plundered by loggers and poachers. Thankfully the latter is mitigated by constant patrolling but incidences do occur.
Sloth Bear
Charismatic & Picturesque is what these pristine forests are described as. They retain these characteristic attributes at many places. Even historical evidence found in the Tala Range can be found elsewhere scattered and forlorn. This also informs us of the extant Tribal Gond rule in the region.
Tigers inhabit the most beautiful region in Central India. Beautiful rivers, tabletop mountains, marshy grasslands, enchanting glens, and pristine forests. These are the wonderlands of the wild World.
Destinations like Bandhavgarh have to be preserved not only for the tigers but for humanity as a whole. These precious gems are in trouble thanks to unchecked development and mining, denudation, and advancing urbanity. Let's hope the weight age accorded to the tiger will indirectly help preserve the whole ecosystem/
A local legend and a hero Taru fought a tiger to save a man. The tribal is now worshipped as God in the tiger landscape that is known as Tadoba National Park. Situated in the Chandrapur District near Maharashtra it is at some distance from the Nagpur Airport.
The core of the park has become inviolate but the tribals are allowed to visit and pray at the spot where Taru became a martyr. Legends surround the landscape but now tourism dominates.
Of late, the realm of the tiger has become a popular tourist destination. It is visited chiefly for easy sightings of the tiger and leopard. The park is home to large tracts of mixed forests with teak and bamboo.
A large number of tourists visit Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve in Maharashtra. The purpose of their visit is to see the tiger in its natural habitat. Tadoba abounds in tigers and leopards. Holidaymakers, wildlife photographers, filmmakers, and researcher flock to the destination everywhere. This generates revenue for conservation and provides employment for the locals. The hotel industry in the buffer also plays a supportive role by employing the locals. There are a large number of hotels and resorts near the gates of Tadoba.
Tadoba Tourism Zones
Moharli Zone
Kolara Zone
Pangadi and Zari Zone
Navegaon Zone
Junona Gate
Kolara Chauradeo Gate
Pangadi Aswal Chuha Gate
Navegaon Ramdegi Gate
Devada Gate
Madnapur Gate
Zari Peth
Navegaon Gate
Adegaon Gate
Alizanza Gate
Zari Gate
Nimdela Gate
Agarzari Gate
Shirkheda Gate
Keslaghat
*********
Mamla Gate
Belara Gate
*********
*********
It is notified as a tiger reserve and a National Park.
Tiger - Monu Dubey
Erstwhile hunting grounds, the reserve has proven to be an excellent breeding ground for the big cats. The dry deciduous forests comprise teak as well as mixed forests with patches of bamboo in between.
Tadoba is home to many other mammals, a large number of avians, and reptiles. In fact, it is one of the best places to see marsh crocodiles in numerous lakes and water bodies.
Thanks to a highly successful breeding program, and effective protective mechanism the forests now thrive with the big cats. The big cats have spread beyond the boundaries of the tiger reserve. They have been sighted in and around the forests of Chandrapur which is at a distance of more than thirty-four kilometers. Chandrapur is a coal mining town but has surroundings containing good forests. This is proving to be a good habitat for tigers.
Thanks to active conservation measure the ecosystem comprising many niche habitats have vastly improved. The reserve is also noted for its incredible birdlife and reptiles.
The Project Tiger Program an Indian Government initiative has been highly successful in the conservation of the species. A large number of reserves have been created as a home to the endangered species and the efforts are bearing fruits. The number of species in India is constantly rising and results are being awaited for the latest census. It is assumed that the number of tigers could have risen to more than three thousand all over the country. If this comes out to be true it will be an indicator of much-desired success. The program has been so successful in this park that the big cats and deer can often be spotted on the nearby roads and highways to lead to populated areas.
Tiger Tourism at Tadoba
Spotting the tiger or the leopard the organized safari is the best option. The jeep rides are the best way to experience the amazing biodiversity of the park. But the entry is limited and you have to book a permit in advance since without one you cannot take part in the excursions. Hence book Tadoba safari days before you make the tour.
How to Reach
The best route is from Nagpur Airport or Rail Head. Drive to Chandrapur at a distance of 130 km. The distance of various gates averages around 47 to 50 km approximately. The core are of the park is closed for tourism during the monsoon. But buffer tourism is open. Anyway before making the trip make sure.
Thankfully no more! Ranthambhore National Park was the hunting grounds of the Maharajahs of Jaipur. But all that changed whence legislation was passed in 1972. No more hunting wild animals! This was a blessing in disguise augured by our Honourable PM Mrs. Indira Gandhi wildlife conservation in India got a big boost a much-needed respite from ruthless slaughter. Overnight history pages turned into the right folds.
Well, the Maharajahs too turned into conservationists well most of them and began to conserve the inheritance. In Ranthambhore, one comes across many structures that belong to the days of yore. The Rajputs were valiant fighters but they were creative architects as well. Not only that their love for music and fine arts has left an indelible impression on Indian culture.
Ranthambhore is a conservation unit known as a tiger reserve. It is home to more than forty-five tigers living in an area of 1334 sq. km. The area is biodiversity rich and supports many forms of life. Some of the major mammals seen here are the tiger, leopard, sloth bear, Nilgai, sambar deer, and spotted deer. Among the reptiles python and marsh, crocodiles are seen.
Ranthambore is home to many avian species and is a delight for the birding fraternity.
The safaris are conducted on open jeeps and canters which have to be booked in advance. The route taken is as per the zone mentioned in the permit. On safari, not only wild animals but the whole ecosystem is experienced. Besides the remains of forts and temples can also be witnessed.
The stupendous landscape is admired the most. The backdrop of forest-clad hills and the presence of a large number of lakes beside small grasslands create an enchanting landscape.
Ranthambore is situated at Sawai Madhopur about 100 plus km from Jaipur and Kota in Rajasthan. The easy accessibility from New Delhi invites many visitors every year. In order to provide accommodation to the visitor a large number of hotels and resorts reside at Sawai Madhopur. The properties are luxurious but there are some budget properties as well. High-End properties belong to the five-star and heritage class suitable for a stay in the wilderness.
Highly popular in the tourist circuit Ranthambore tiger safaris are very much in demand. The permits for excursions are booked much in advance. For those visiting the National Park, they should do all their bookings much in advance.
One of the oldest National Parks of Maharashtra in India Tadoba incidentally happens to be the largest. The total area of the tiger reserve is 1727 sq. km. The core area is 625.40 sq. km and the rest is buffer.
The forests were the home of the Gond Tribe who worship their chieftain called Taru of Tadoba. Taru worshipped as God died at the hands of a tiger whom he fought valiantly. Hence the legendary figure is revered and the park is named Tadoba after him.
The present-day tiger reserve is a combination of Andhari River Forests and Tadoba National Park created in 1955. The area is biodiversity rich both in terms of flora and fauna. The indicator species is the tiger albeit other predators like the leopard, hyena, and jackal are frequently seen. The Tadoba Lake is home to many crocodiles, turtles, and fish. Wetland and shore birds can be seen here in large numbers some of which are winter migrants. The abundance of avian species makes this tiger reserve attractive for birders although a greater number of tourists and wildlife photographers come here to see the tiger in the wild.
Bison, Nilgai and four-horned antelope, spotted deer, sambar, and barking deer are the main prey base. Also common are the langur monkey and the wild boar. A sloth bear is a delightful sight, especially with cubs on its back. No wonder Tadoba is one of the most delightful tiger safari destinations in India.
Tourism is drawing a large number of holidaymakers and wildlife photographers every year. To support the visitors a large number of wildlife resorts provide accommodation. One can find luxury as well as budget resorts for a comfortable stay.
Tiger safaris are organized on open jeeps but an entry permit is a prerequisite. The entry permits are allocated per the tourism zone. The permits can be obtained near the gates and often with the help resort that is providing accommodation to you.
All in all not much trouble for tourists. To explore Tadoba National Park be well prepared. Complete booking formalities before you arrive. Take the assistance of the tour operator or the resort manager. The park is closed from July 1st to October 15th every year.
The best way to reach Tadoba is from Nagpur Airport at a distance of one hundred fifty km. Nagpur is well connected by Air, Rail, and Road with Mumbai. It is connected by Air from New Delhi.
I saw my first male tiger in Bandhavgarh National Park in the seventies. The place was called Kill Khunta, since bait was usually tied there to attract tigers. The baiting practice was thankfully stopped but the tigers do not go hungry at all. In that dusky twilight, I could see one of nature's marvelous creations. The awe and admiration have never ceased since.
Back from the brink of disaster, the little paradise was not throbbing with tigers as conservation practice had just been put in place. The aftermath of reckless hunting had come to a stop and recovery was on the way. Though isolated and fragmented, the reserve retained its glorious ancient past and amazing Sal forests.
There were few visitors, and the accommodation was limited to the Maharani's Kothi for the privileged and the Forest/PWDR.H - rest house.
Eventually, MPTDC stepped in and established the White Tiger Lodge. Then more tourists started to arrive with propaganda so created. The tourism infrastructure had been put in place with a number of elephants for rides. The jungle roads were being maintained. This was the hunting reserve of the erstwhile Maharajas of Rewa. It was the largest Kingdom in India during the post-independence period.
The discovery of white tigers in the adjacent forests had already opened the floodgates of popularity. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve is situated in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. It is one of the finest places to see the tiger in the wild. The preserve is one of the most picturesque destinations - a little tiger haven tucked away in the deep recess of India's wild heartland. Under the project tiger, the area covered is about 1100 sq. km including the neighboring Pan Patha Wildlife Sanctuary. The core now constitutes 600 plus sq. km as against 145 or so earlier.
On our earlier visits, we could count around 60 plus heads of gaur or Indian Bison. Gradually we saw the numbers dwindle till the end came somewhere in the nineties. This was a major blow to the habitat, the loss of a coarse grazer was irreparable. Rinderpest & FPL was the scourge carried by maddening numbers of livestock in the periphery. Though some gaur has been relocated from Kanha recently, we have to wait for success.
It was obvious from the sightings that the prey base was increasing. The sightings also confirmed that big cats in the park were on the increase. In a few years, the reserve was a conservation success - it still is.
Another noticeable fact was the increasing number of tourists as well as the hotel resorts. The park became the number one tourist draw thanks to a high density of tigers. The core area of the park is the finest habitat for cats. Due to the slush and grass in swampy marshy areas hunting was easy.
The village relocation had taken place from within the core and some were due which eventually did not happen - Kalwa & Magdi. The edaphic grasslands left by the tribal communities inside were overtaken by the prey base. This was like bounty from heaven since the grass was much-wanted fodder for the deer and the bison.
Ruins
The remains of ancient civilizations added luster to the splendorous jungle resort. The ancient man-made caves still exist with petroglyphs and Brahmi script on the walls. The forests experienced many warring civilizations throughout, as history unfolded. The dynasties left their marks on the ruins which are now ruled thankfully by the big cats. The place since evolution belonged to the wild denizens later intruded on by humans.
The ancient ruins add an esoteric touch to the wildlife haven. Sesh Shaiyya on the way to Bandhavgarh Hillock is right out of the fairy tale. Its pristine surroundings and springs are in reality best described as fairy tale settings. The reclining statue of Lord Vishnu beside the pond makes it a place of religious importance for the locals.
On the way up are a number of zoomorphic statues of Lord Visnu some towering. Matsya Avatar - Varah Avatar and so on. The Laxman Temple sits atop the hill facing the beautiful grasslands valleys and neighboring mountains. Picturesque indeed! The Bandhavgarh Hill is steep and about 800m MSL. the hillock are an ideal breeding ground for Long Billed Vulture.
Bandhavgarh Fort at the top lies in ruins arch, a man-made reservoir, statues, and temple remains are littered all over. The remains boast of exquisite and colorful sculptural practice & art of ancient India. They are an archeological find dating back two thousand years in the recess of this old country.
The plateau is extensive and gives one an eerie feeling a spread of ruined civilization, tall grasslands, and a haunting specter of open spaces, mystical and esoteric as of the pristine wild country. The alarm cry or the tiger roar can be unnerving as I have experienced often.
Priest & Tiger
The Old Brahmin Pujari was a legendary figure. He walked about 11 km to the Laxman Temple, under the care of his family, since the Maharajas were ordained. He must have been the most familiar figure for the tigers that walked aside from him. He once told me that his meetings with tigers were often and it was you go your way and I go my way affair, strictly. He died a natural death and I believe his son has taken over.
Hills Glens & Rivers
Mahaman, Chur Bohera, Raj Bohera, Bathan are well-preserved grasslands. Their rivers crisscross Johilla, Charanganga, and Umrar. Must-visit for tiger sightings and landscape are Badi Gufa, Ghoda Damen, 10 No.GUFA and Andheri Jhiriya. The terrain is torturous and at places very steep. The safari is exciting over steep climbs, across grasslands and river beds the cliff tower over you all the time.
Forests
The abundance of SAL is evident but the park encompasses some of the finest bamboo slopes and mixed forests. The canopy is dense but withers as one moves along the periphery due to wood logging in the buffer.
Buffer
Once a large contiguous tract of the forest the park is now isolated. Neighboring forests are Pan Patha, Gunghuti and the Sihora Forest ranges at some distance. the forests leading to Amarkantak and Achanakmar belts have been badly denuded hence there is no migration path for any species. All around the reserve forest are in a bad state and hence tiger habitat has been reduced. There are villages surrounding the buffer and within with a large number of livestock. Except for tourism alternative means of survival have not been explored.
Tiger Safari
Tourism in the tiger reserves of Central India is monitored and well-managed. I have seen tiger tourism grow from infancy and simultaneously the wildlife has increased as well. Tourism has benefited local communities which were until then dependent upon infertile lands. The need for accommodation has brought in many hotels. The established hotels of Bandhavgarh employ a large number of youth. Most of these are from the local communities. Many get employment in the forest department as guides, chara cutters, guards and naturalists, etc. Plus the park is a nature library many tourists come and go with a greater understanding of nature, admiration for other life forms, and a desire to conserve valuable heritage.
The Tiger
It has been one hell of a journey for the beleaguered animal. It has been ignominiously pushed back to small pockets along with associates. We have never ceased to destroy nature, we have overpowered other life forms and taken their land away. The majestic cat is a silent and helpless observer as the axe continues to ravage his kingdoms all over the country.
Immensely popular as the best tiger habitat in the World, Kanha justifies all glory. This pristine forest has always been a tiger habitat and offers a suitable home to amazing mammals and biodiversity.
For me Kanha remains a mystery in spite of many many visits since last thirty years. From a conservation center in infancy to ideal tiger heaven today. No wonder it is the most visited park in India for tiger safaris. As per latest news, the reserve is host to more than 90 tigers in the wild. It is an ideal breeding ground for tigers, as I have seen since years.
Tiger sightings are often bleak and often magnificent. That is how the animal is, mysterious, elusive and mystical. It can be days before one sees a tiger or sometimes there is a windfall. Tiger sightings are by no means estimation of its population at Kanha, but one comes across a lot of tell tale signs. These are indicator of the tiger's presence and trained eyes can make them out. Kanha tigers are in good health though menace of poaching and man animal conflicts loom overhead. Any kind of complacency can be disastrous as has been observed at Panna and Sariska. The conservation centers in India should be alert and protective of this species.
Recently I was at Kanha Tiger Reserve and visited the fine habitats near the Kanha meadow. Due to weather conditions the animals kept themselves in deep confines. But any way I was able to come across a tigress after lot of efforts. My guests wore fat smiles'... after lot of dejection earlier.
Tiger sightings are more by chance but there is always an option for a sleuth he!he!. One can come to conclusions that increase the chance of sighting the tiger in its home. I received a lot of handshakes and pats on the back. I was happy with the driver of the Kanha resort were I was staying. Some of the wildlife lodges make special efforts in training their drivers and naturalists. responsible tourism most of the staff is local.
Kanha safaris are highly organised and one must follow the rules and regulations fully. The park authorities cooperate with the tourism industry but do not allow tourists to go against the rules. This helps in offering the tourists a holistic experience of the preserve. As part of responsibility the tourists themselves must set an example of responsible behaviour while on safaris. After all we are in the land of the tiger and millions of life forms that are making their last stand in such forests.
The jungles of India intrigue and fascinate humans. They exude an aura of mystery and mystical charm and unparalleled natural beauty. The animal kingdoms in India for thousands of years have bedazzled humans and attracted them to admire, explore study, and record aspects of nature's masterpiece. Throughout annals of history animals and birds and forests find mentioned by kings, court historians, writers, poets, ascetics, and local communities. Photos By. Mr.Kamaljeet Hora Bandhavgarh jungle was once contiguous with Central India Highlands and Vindhyan Ranges. It is now more or less fragmented and isolated, connected perhaps with Kanha and Achanakmar with nonviable badly deforested corridors.
Small and confined, the jungles of Bandhavgarh are the epitome of exceptional beauty and exude an aura of mystique. The spectacular esoteric, fairy tale settings and element of mystery remain. The terrain is unique in steep rocky hills, marshy grasslands, and a dense canopy of tropical moist forests. In between the forested slopes and marshy glens traverse small rivers - lifelines of the ecosystem. The enigmatic landscape heightens the perception of depth, stirs imagination, and peppers mind and body.
The thrill of exploring mysterious jungle life is heightened by equally mysterious elusive animals that exude charisma, fear, and awe. The tiger rules supreme, King personified and embellished in myths, arts, literature, and cultures all over the World.
Bandhavgarh in its niche habitats, unfathomable caves amidst rocky crevices, towering hillocks, and sun-baked plateaus nourishes remains of ancient kingdoms. Of Kings and Queens who ruled in glorious times and were eventually vanquished by conquerors. The ruins lie scattered unfolding saga of human civilizations that sought shelter in the unreachable and secure womb of these dense forests.
Bandhavgarh is a fascinating blend of ancient history and equally fascinating jungle life. The pristine forests, prehistoric petrographic and man-made caves, zoomorphic idols, ancient temples, stables, reservoirs, and a magnificent fort stand testimony to ancient civilizations that coexisted with nature.
The park is the best place to watch tigers in the wild. In a small area of 400 plus sq. km, a large population of Bengal tigers survives. The tigers of Bandhavgarh have been epitomized and made eternal by filmmakers, wildlife photographers, and storytellers alike. Be it the legendary Badka, Sita, or awesome Charger all have been objects of sustained documentation and study. The stars of this wildlife resort have propelled it to International fame and mention. Visited by a large number of inbound and Indian tourists the park invites more and more visitors every year. One can see a large cross-section of the park on safaris and enjoy big games and birding. The resort offers all king of hotel accommodations from super luxurious to budget.
The core focus in Bandhavgarh National Park in MP has always been on tigers due to high visibility and fecundity. On safari besides tigers and leopards, one can see many deer species, lesser carnivores, and small often nocturnal mammals. Bird life at Bandhavgarh is interesting and invites many birdwatchers to the preserve. The impressive biodiversity is best experienced during a long stay and repeated visits.
The park is accessible from Jabalpur by road (4 hrs +) which is connected by flight service with New Delhi. Utkal Express makes a short stop at Umaria rail head about 32 km from the tiger preserve. From Khajuraho, BTR is a 6 to 7 hours drive.
Well known for its tigers and wildlife safaris Bandhavgarh is the most picturesque resort in the World. Not as large as Kanha or Pench it is quintessentially a tiger reserve. The density of tigers is the highest here. It is the topography that supports tigers the best. The topography comprises steep hills and hillocks with tableland at the top. The diversity of life forms is worth observing.
In between are deep glens with forested slopes, rivers, and grasslands. The terrain does not permit human movement in many places. There are many inaccessible areas some of which are motorable but tourists rarely go there. The inaccessibility has prevented human encroachment. This has been one of the reasons for the eventual survival of the tigers at Bandhavgarh. The prey base is excellent and the marshy grasslands are ideal hunting grounds for dominant tigers.
Like Kanha, the park offers the best chance to see the tiger in the wild on a jeep safari. The tourism zone comprises marshy grasslands where tigers abound. They can be seen in broad daylight by chance. The dense canopy of the forested regions offers little chance to see the tiger since there is plenty of covers.
The tigers are everywhere even near the resorts in Bandhavgarh National Park. They can be seen with luck on road to Tala and near some villages. There are incidences of man-animal conflict and the animal is the sufferer. There are many villages yet to be relocated from within the park.
Tiger Safari
Tiger safari is conducted in the core zone of the park. There are two safaris in the jungle early morning and late evening. There are now two entrance gates but the Tala Gate is very popular. The road runs parallel to the Charanganga River offering a good chance to sight the big cat, especially in summer. There is a split at some juncture one jungle road leads to Chur Bohera meadow. This is again a good spot to see the tigers in the wild. Wildlife safaris in Bandhavgarh Jungle would now be route based for individual vehicles. This is good and prevents the concentration of vehicles in one spot.
One can score Mahaman and Raj Bohera for some exciting moments. Waiting patiently at Gopal Talao and other water bodies could fetch some exciting mammal sightings including the tiger. On jeep, safari silence is the rule and keen eyes are a necessity. This is essential to catch sight of wild animals or hear telltale signs of their presence. Pug mark trekking is also good but by the time you have come across the mark, the tiger has already slithered away.
Having a holistic experience is an essential way of holidaying at tiger reserves and National Parks in India. The jungle has so much to offer in terms of wildlife sightings, birding, and soothing calm in a pristine environment.
Wildlife & Tourism
Other animals to be seen at Bandhavgarh are Leopard, Sambar Deer, Spotted Deer, Wild Dog, Barking Deer, Sloth Bear, Four Horned Deer, Langurs, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Jackal, Fox, and Rhesus Macaque. A night safari outside the park could yield small mammals, civet cats, ratel, and porcupines. Night safaris are not allowed inside the preserve. Pythons and other reptiles are seen with luck.
Nilgai is often seen at Bathan but Hyenas and Indian Wolf are scared... I have never seen them at the scrub outside the park. The nature preserve offers the finest birding opportunity for forest birds and often some wetland birds.
Places of interest are the ancient Bandhavgarh Fort, temples, stables, Sesh Shaiyya, man-made caves with ancient Brahmi script, and zoomorphic avatars of Lord Vishnu.
The tourism infrastructure is well set in the reserve. The safaris are regulated by the forest department. It is a must to hire a park guide on safaris. At the gates, the fee is charged on a per-vehicle basis and a separate fee has to be paid for filming equipment - cameras, videos, and movie cameras. There is a wildlife interpretation center at Tala Gate. Tala village is a small shopping center and eatables are available.
The jeeps are available for hire most of the hotels in Bandhavgarh arrange jeep safaris. Hence those on the jungle plan benefit a lot. There are many hotels, wildlife resorts, and lodges outside the preserve. The rates are for all budgets - super luxury to budget accommodation.
Season
The park opens in October and closes in June end. All time is a good time to holiday at this reserve but avoid the holiday season especially major festivals.
The winters are very cold hence warm clothing, hand gloves, and headgear is a must. Summer is hot...not for those who cannot bear the heat.
How to Reach
The park can be reached by 5 hrs drive from Jabalpur by road and rail (Umaria). Jabalpur is connected by air to New Delhi. Overnight train from New Delhi - Utkal Express reaches Umaria in the morning. This railhead is about 32 km from the park gate.
Plan your safaris well and enjoy the most exciting heart throbbing wildlife holiday ever.
Bandhavgarh is a moist deciduous tropical forest type. It is situated in the Vindhya Range which lies in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. The forest flora comprises Sal (Shorea Robusta) as the dominant species with Bamboo (Dendrocalamus strictus) on slopes of hills. The other tree elements comprise Saj, Dhawa, Bhilma, Tendu, Bel, Harra, Bija, Lyndia, Arjun, Mahua, Pipal, Banyan, Kosum, Palas, Salai, Gunjan, Char, Jamun, Aonla, Pakur, Kulu, Amaltas and many more. The woody climbers, herbs, and shrubs constitute the understory.
The grasslands of Bandhavgarh are marshily inundated by Charanganga, Johilla, and Umrar rivers. The marshy grasslands are ideal grounds for hunting Bengal tigers. Most of the grasslands at Bandhavgarh are edaphic but support the herbivores like spotted deer and sambar. There is no historical record of Swamp deer at Bandhavgarh National Park. The only coarse grazer Indian bison or gaur has lost ground here.
The terrain is undulating and comprises steep rocky cliffs many with forested slopes. The valleys that hold marshy grasslands, forest, and crisscrossing rivulets are prime habitats of the herbivores and carnivores follow them here.
There are thirty-two hillocks of which Bandhavgarh Hill is the highest. This is where the Fort is situated alongside Laxman Temple. On the way to the hill is Sesh Shaiiya a fairy pool with reclining Vishnu carved out of rock. On the way up there are many zoomorphic forms of Lord Vishnu carved out of the rocks. The hill expresses solitude and an esoteric charm difficult to behold. Very few tourists visit this place.
Of the grasslands called bahera, Chakradhara and Chur Bahera are famous for tiger safaris in Bandhavgarh. It is here that lot many tiger sightings take place. The Raj Bahera perhaps the largest was home to the gaurs and herds of deer and wild boar. I have experienced a few tiger sightings here. Other interesting places are Shera Dadra, Mahaman, Bathan, Ghoda Daman, and Andheri Jhiriya.
There are many water bodies, small lakes, ponds, water holes, and small streams that form the life support system of the park. Besides one can spot some water birds as well. The preserve is rich in bird life and can be constituted as a major birding spot for forest birds.
The tiger sits at the apex of the food chain and hence is the keystone species being a tertiary carnivore. The leopards and wild dogs are at the top rung of the food chain a degree less than the tigers. The consumers comprise mainly spotted deer, sambar, barking deer, and four-horned deer. The Nilgai keeps open areas of the park on the exterior of Bathan and elsewhere. The chinkara has not been seen in my numerous visits since last decade. The nocturnal animals are less seen as night safaris are not allowed in the park. Sloth bears, foxes, ratel, porcupines, civet cats, flying squirrels, and the rest can be seen on the night drives on the periphery of public roads. Jackals, mongooses, and jungle cats are diurnal. Flash and spotlights are not allowed. Hyenas and Indian wolves are less seen and their status is unknown. The sighting of the caracal is not confirmed. Mouse deer recently discovered in Kanha wildlife preserve is not check listed here.
The reptiles common are grass snakes, pythons, cobras, krait, vipers, rat snakes, keelbacks, tree snakes, and many more are less seen perhaps more apparent during the monsoons whence the preserve is closed. Monitor lizards and flying lizards are present here.
The insect life in thousands is yet to be discovered with butterflies being the most exciting elements. Signature spiders and other species are widespread while moths can be sighted here and there.
The producers are indescribable...perhaps a botanist would do a better job. But the floral diversity is as striking as the fauna is. From microorganisms to algae and fungi and exotic plants such as Sundew (Drossera indica) The park is limited by its canopy spread and the designated area by Project Tiger holds little meaning. The support systems are all around and habitats outside park confines are as important.
Bandhavgarh forests were earlier favored hunting grounds for Maharajas of Rewa. The intact ecosystem as of today is perhaps a result of the zealous preservation of the forests for their sport. After Independence Bandhavgarh Park was declared a tiger reserve. The project initiated by the government of India is to conserve tiger habitats and its tigers. The park has shown excellent response to conservation efforts. The tigers and other wildlife flourish with gusto.
The park has the highest density of tigers in India and hence is the best place to see tigers in the wild. Though not absolutely safe from poachers and wood smugglers the inaccessible hilly regions perhaps are a boon to wildlife here.
Though famous for tigers and Hard Ground Barasingha Kanha is full of surprises. The leopard beleaguered cousin of the tiger is an elusive and nocturnal species at Kanha National Park in the state of Madhya Pradesh.
In my many many visits to this tiger reserve, I have been fortunate enough to see the leopard only two times. As a result, I had given up trekking this shy cat. The leopards are strictly nocturnal and shy by habit in Kanha as a result of stiff competition with the tiger.
The confrontation between the tiger and the leopard is fatal with the latter being at the receiving end. Hence the animal is forced to space its movement carefully in order to avoid the big cousin. But the leopard does move in the day at times and is seen by the lucky ones on a tiger safari in the park.
Recent sightings of leopards at Kanha have been surprisingly frequent thanks to effective conservation measures.
The leopard population in Kanha is on the upward swing which has resulted in greater sightings. This has come as a boon to wildlife photographers as the leopard photos in this blog show. These images are the work of wildlife enthusiast and photographer Mr. Kamaljeet Singh Hora. He is well known to me and often sends his wonderful wildlife photos for my blogs.
The leopard has been frequently seen and photographed at Link No. 9 in the core area of the park. Many delightful sightings have taken place recently.
If the future augurs well Kanha tiger reserve will be popular not only for tiger safari but for leopard safari as well. A lot to cheer about.
