Grasslands larger than life

The Meadows

Unique feature of the tiger reserves of Central India are the grasslands that lie interspersed between rugged mountains and enchanting valleys. Also known as boheras in Bandhavgarh and maidan in Kanha these are hub of activities in the ecosystem.

The grasslands or meadows are the center of attraction for man animals and birds alike. The tourist flock these meadows in order to see the tiger and the deer. Since the thick canopy obstructs wildlife sighting the tourist jeeps prefer to move around the grasslands in order to see the tigers.

Tigers love the tall grasses of the prairies and sulk in between to ambush prey. They love the cover of the tall grass and the shade. In Bandhavgarh tiger reserve the Boheras are marshy and have proven to be excellent hunting grounds for the tigers. The slush hinders fast movement of the deer and the big cats find it easy to pounce upon them.

In Kanha the meadows besides supporting the tigers are home to critically endangered Swamp Deer. This is the only hard ground Barasingha population left in the wild. The deer now survives in good enough numbers after it was brought back from brink of extinction. The swamp deer subsists only on certain species of grass and poses conservation challenge to park authorities.

The grasses are frequented not only by tigers and deer they are home to many species of birds and reptiles. With luck one can see the reticulated python or other snakes. Most often seen grass birds are plain prinia, jungle prinia, zitting cisticola, warblers, common stonechat, pipits and larks, francolins painted and grey, munias or avadavat, storks and many others.

In order to stalk prey tigers frequent these grassy maidans. Since the concentration of deer is very high hunting is much easier. In the open spaces movement is not hampered like in thick canopy. They are easily camouflaged in the dry grass and can hide easily. Hence spotting tigers in grasslands is not as easy as people presume.

The most popular grasslands in Bandhavgarh are Chur Bohera, Raj bohera, bathan and chakradhara. Similarly the Kanha meadow is most popular, preferred by animals and tourists alike. Others are Saunf meadow where Swamp Deer breed, Kisli meadow and Parsa tola to name a few.

Most of the grasslands are small in area whence compared with Dhikala Chuad in Corbett Tiger Reserve. The height is much less than elephant grass. Most of the grasslands in Central Indian Tiger Reserves in MP are edaphic. They were earlier settlements which have been trans located elsewhere. The vacated fields have been overtaken by local species of grass and secondary scrub.

The savannas are always under threat from fire and over grazing. Thankfully live stock is not allowed inside the core area and the park authorities are constantly guarding the habitats from fires. The predators maintain the right population of deer hence prevent overgrazing. A major challenge being faced by conservation team in Kanha emanates from the lendia tree. This tree is slowly encroaching into the grasslands and reducing them. The swamp deer depend entirely on these ecosystems hence to stop the encroachment or leave nature to take care of things is a difficult decision to be taken.

Besides habitats of many species in these National Parks the savannas are vital to the ecosystem. They constitute major support system to these diverse habitats and have tremendous water retention capacity.

Bison Translocation - New Dimension in Conservation

The recent ongoing trans location of Bison or Gaur from Kanha to Bandhavgarh TR accords a new dimension to wildlife conservation in India. Earlier the trans location of the Swamp Deer from Kanha to Bandhavgarh had failed miserably. It resulted in the death of all the Swamp Deer being trans located.

It was not only tragic but a great loss as well since the swamp deer or Hard Ground Barasingha is a highly endangered sub species found only in Kanha. The swamp deer were being translocated to Bandhavgarh a habitat which holds no historical record or evidence of swamp deer ever present there. But that was way back.

With induction of new technologies and technique the Bison trans location to Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve would be more successful. Nature conservation in India is in a piteous state in spite of the country making long strides in every field. Whatever is said, nature is accorded a low priority here.

The conservation impetus thrives due to few individuals, NGO and some dedicated and committed officials who go unsung. The required political will is not there though there are exceptions.

The trans location of Bison is going to be a major challenge since the stock being translocated is not familiar with the terrain. The Bison in India are local migratory species and the migration pattern is strongly ingrained in the genes. The only hope is that the population was once interconnected before habitat destruction took place. This would mean presence of genetic traits which will help the coarse grazer to migrate to suitable pockets as seasons change.

But the challenge will remain, the threat from foot and mouth disease, rinderpest is for real. Until unless proper inoculation of live stock in the buffers takes place the whole exercise will be futile. I strongly believe that the local extinction of this bovine was due disease. There is no palpable reason why the stock would migrate to another habitat leaving the present habitat which is well conserved.

Another plus point is that both the tiger reserves are similar in habitat or forest types, though topography may differ. Bandhavgarh was the last and only strong hold of Gaur North of Narmada River. If the success takes place than the tragic local extinction would fade into history.

Though prevention is better than cure no one minds re-establishment of locally rare species. This is the case with Panna and Sariska as well. Spreading of rare genetic stocks in suitable habitats augurs greater survival chance.

Alarms bells should sound in case of Gir Lions a population enclosed in one habitat. An epidemic like FPL can wipe the whole population. Donating a pride to Palpur Kuno would mean one step forward in conservation. This in case of highly isolated lion population and only sub species in the World - Asiatic Lion.

Kanha Tigers

Immensely popular as the best tiger habitat in the World, Kanha justifies all glory. This pristine forest has always been a tiger habitat and offers a suitable home to amazing mammals and biodiversity.

For me Kanha remains a mystery in spite of many many visits since last thirty years. From a conservation center in infancy to ideal tiger heaven today. No wonder it is the most visited park in India for tiger safaris. As per latest news, the reserve is host to more than 90 tigers in the wild. It is an ideal breeding ground for tigers, as I have seen since years.

Tiger sightings are often bleak and often magnificent. That is how the animal is, mysterious, elusive and mystical. It can be days before one sees a tiger or sometimes there is a windfall. Tiger sightings are by no means estimation of its population at Kanha, but one comes across a lot of tell tale signs. These are indicator of the tiger's presence and trained eyes can make them out. Kanha tigers are in good health though menace of poaching and man animal conflicts loom overhead. Any kind of complacency can be disastrous as has been observed at Panna and Sariska. The conservation centers in India should be alert and protective of this species.

Recently I was at Kanha Tiger Reserve and visited the fine habitats near the Kanha meadow. Due to weather conditions the animals kept themselves in deep confines. But any way I was able to come across a tigress after lot of efforts. My guests wore fat smiles'... after lot of dejection earlier.

Tiger sightings are more by chance but there is always an option for a sleuth he!he!. One can come to conclusions that increase the chance of sighting the tiger in its home. I received a lot of handshakes and pats on the back. I was happy with the driver of the Kanha resort were I was staying. Some of the wildlife lodges make special efforts in training their drivers and naturalists. responsible tourism most of the staff is local.

Kanha safaris are highly organised and one must follow the rules and regulations fully. The park authorities cooperate with the tourism industry but do not allow tourists to go against the rules. This helps in offering the tourists a holistic experience of the preserve. As part of responsibility the tourists themselves must set an example of responsible behaviour while on safaris. After all we are in the land of the tiger and millions of life forms that are making their last stand in such forests.

Less Seen Animals - Central Indian Tiger Reserves

The tiger reserves in Central India are a major focus of attention as far as tiger tourism is concerned. This comes through the high visibility of this extremely endangered animal in the country. Tiger chases in the parks have given a bad name to tourism by and large in these magnificent reserves.

Not surprisingly every one wishes to see the tiger. It is our beloved Earth's most coveted animal, charismatic to the bone and mystical. Irrespective of the conservation ethos of our ancient scriptures we have managed the reverse. Wild tiger sighting is an experience of a lifetime. First time or last you never come out of it.

The reserves of Central India or MP have a high density of tigers namely Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench. Besides they are intact ecosystems with amazing biodiversity. This is to be experienced in totality in order to enjoy nature. As interest in nature deepens a desire for a holistic experience of ecosystems is a natural precursor.

Every element of nature's wonderful creation excites and thrills. It gives meaning to our own existence on Earth. A lifetime is not enough to experience these pristine tiger havens in totality. But whatever more you experience is enough.

On tiger safaris, other animals seen in the forests and grasslands are Nilgai, swamp deer (Kanha), sambar, spotted deer, langur, wild boar, jackal, wild dog, bison, and oft barking deer. A leopard sighting is the thrill of a lifetime and so is that of the sloth bear.

Rarely seen are the mouse deer recently discovered at Kanha, four-horned deer - endemic species, Indian wolf - highly endangered, and hyena. It is most exciting to see the nightlife albeit night safaris in the park are not allowed. One can certainly go through on the common roads outside the park. Animals often seen on night rounds are leopards on the prowl, sloth bears, jungle cats, civet cats, porcupines, foxes, ratel, and mouse deer? some birds like night jars, large owls, and Eurasian thicknee. It is possible to see Hyenas and Wolves at nighttime wherever they survive.

The reptiles are shy and extremely nocturnal, most commonly seen are the monitor lizard, python, cobra, krait, viper, rat snake, keelbacks, and grass snakes. Many species of tortoise can be seen in ponds. The rivers in these tiger reserves do not hold mugger or gharial. They are found in Ken River Sanctuary near Panna National Park.

In India, wild safaris hold an element of surprise. Animals en masse are rarely seen. A dull day can turn into an electrifying moment in one go. Trekking skills help a lot but it is luck that dominates for one and all.

The tiger reserves are places for exciting birding in Madhya Pradesh for birders. More than two hundred fifty avian species can be checked and listed. These are ideal destinations for forest birding in India.

Wildlife Tourism - Changing Paradigm

The Central Indian tiger reserves are the most popular wildlife safari destinations in India. Incidentally, they have become the hub of tiger tourism. This has opened up an industry that is unique and unparalleled in Madhya Pradesh. 

People from all walks of life in the vicinity and far are being benefited due to the influx of a large number of tourists for tiger safaris. Tourism though a big money earner has its own burden to carry forth. But whence the heritage is in a perfect state of preservation and tourism is responsible, the benefits far outweigh the negatives. Nevertheless, the status of the tiger and wildlife in general in India is precariously threatened. Hence it is imperative to keep the pressure of tiger tourism at the lowest level - which is already being done in the tiger reserves as a gradual process. For some, the onus of animals being endangered and ecosystems being ravaged lies on eco-tourism. This is a gross misconception bordering on ignorance and perhaps prejudice. The proponent of such notions needs to redefine such notions taking into account a wider perspective. 

The impelling disaster is due to extensive deforestation, man-animal conflict, and organized poaching. Much needs to be done as regards these factors. In breeding and disease are the next big ones. I have been visiting Kanha and Bandhavgarh since the seventies whence tiger tourism was ready to take off. Subsequently, the number of tourists swelled fourfold and so did the wild animals. In this period the ecosystems peaked with the conservative measure in action. The tiger made a comeback in the parks, though persecution continued in nonprotected areas outside. 

The administration had a double task of managing wildlife, burgeoning tourist numbers, and accommodations. This was well done, the regulations in place did a fine job of containing tourism in the core zones. The recent changes in Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench are suggestive of this ongoing process of managing tourism. But the paranoia that exists vis a vis tiger status sometimes leads to ad hoc policies perhaps without consultation with the industry. More Info: Tiger Conservation Group Kanha In my personal opinion tiger tourism has played a crucial role in education and creating awareness of our wonderful wild heritage. This has propelled conservation in India and augured a new value system for the wilderness. 

Old hunting records suggest that wild animals were treated as pariahs, especially the carnivores. This is one of the prime reasons for the extermination of tigers, leopards, wild dogs, hyenas, wolf and so forth in many parts of India. This drastic perception has been removed amongst a large set of people who have visited these ecosystems. They have certainly voiced their opinions elsewhere. Visitation is a close encounter of the first kind...and the voice has gone far. Even those who have never been to tiger reserves have changed their outlook to positive. 

A more conciliatory approach is required as far as wildlife tourism in India is concerned. Wildlife safaris are a nondestructive way of appreciating nature close. The age-old concept of wildlife as an elite indulgence has to be done away with. The increasing cost of tiger tourism will have a limiting effect on the benefits that accrue. There should be special packages for school groups, NGOs, and the underprivileged such that message spreads far and wide. Eco-tourism encourages the empowerment of local communities and is profit-sharing, educative, and entertaining as well. Why not?

Wild Bovids: Indian Bison

Though not as popular as the tiger, Indian bison or gaur is an extremely majestic animal. The appearance is striking with a reach of five and a half feet to six feet and a weight of 700 to 1000 kg. The species is extremely muscular and shapely with white stockings...nature's striking adornment. The protruding dorsal ridge and dewlaps are typical to males who are glistening black (violet) in color. The fawn-colored females are smaller with inward horns and a less prominent dorsal ridge. The animal is the epitome of fierce strength, and looks fearful, though it is shy by nature.

Gaur belongs to the ox race and the name bison is a misnomer. It is a gregarious animal and as a coarse feeder, it has a penchant for floral elements on hillsides. It is a hill animal and is stressed out to descend up to the grasslands or meadows in Kanha and elsewhere in summer. The only species of Guar North of Narmada was at Bandhavgarh but the disease took its toll and none survive.

The largest population of Gaur (Bos gaurus) is found in the Melghat tiger reserve followed by Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh India. The animals live in herds of ten to forty and forage in grasslands at Kanha. Docile by nature they can ferociously defend their calves from charging tigers. Mostly silent the calls are a series of gutturals and woofs.

The big cat is their only predator and hunts the young ones and often adults. But tiger predation is not to a threatening extent...diseases are. The species is susceptible to rinderpest and foot and mouth disease. An epidemic in 1976 at Kanha tiger reserve took a heavy toll on this majestic bovine. The animals are very shy and like swamp deer cannot survive along with man.

Not much is known about the species, but they are hardy animals, true to their order, and survive in many National Parks in India. Their closest relative is the Banteng found in Eastern India.

The disease carriers are the livestock in the villages nearby the park. As a rule, the livestock has to be inoculated against such disease. The animals in protected areas are not in danger but those outside are unheard of leaving Kanha and Pench.

The herd consists of young ones and females and is led by an old female. The adult males take over the herd during breeding and then stay separate in groups of 2 or 3 or even solitary. The animal has a crucial role in the food chain and in preserving the ecosystem of dense forests.

Table Land Bandhavgarh & Kanha

The tiger reserves in Central India are unique with diverse terrain - typically rising and falling. The undulating terrain creates niche habitats often extensive.

While Bandhavgarh, North of Narmada is situated on the fringe of Vindhya Hill Range the forest extends to meet Achanakmar wildlife sanctuary which is partially contiguous with Kanha. Maikal Hill Range of Satpuda extends into Maharastra where Melghat Tiger Reserve is situated. Kanha is partially contiguous with Pench Tiger Reserve in Satpuda/Satpura Hills. This was once a contiguous forest patch spreading more than five thousand sq km.

Described as Central Indian Highlands By James Forsyth, the reserves are the true tiger havens. The topography accords bewildering diversity to floral elements which in turn creates habitats for multitudinous life forms. Once flourishing with tigers and Central Indian mammals the preserves have been brought back from certain denudation and catastrophe by conservation programs.

Though the forests have been reduced due to continuous wood logging in the past, the pristine forests still retain their glory.

Short hills and tablelands are unique to all tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh albeit the degree may vary slightly. Hillocks at Kanha called Dadars, are not as steep as some are in Bandhavgarh - more cliffs than mountains. The walls of the cliffs at places are steep and rocky and provide excellent nesting grounds for vultures and eagles.

Bahmni Dadar at Kanha and Bandhavgarh Hill at Bandhavgarh have large tablelands or plateaus. The floral elements vary at every climb eventually giving rise to a spectacular scape at the top. As you move up these mountains, a change in the canopy is evident. The slopes covered with bamboo give rise to a more complex mix of herbs, shrubs, vines, and mixed forests. The ecosystem differs from the grounds below.

Rather than chasing tigers in the meadows, these plateaus offer new grounds for exploration. Less seen species of birds and mammals could be sighted on these tabletop mountains.

The plateau is flat mostly edaphic grasslands with scattered tree lines. In Kanha, I have seen the four-horned deer often at Bamni Dadar though no record is found in the plains. Out of reach, these are perfect breeding grounds and shelters for tigers. This could be one reason for the high fecundity seen in these tiger reserves. Tigers in plains adjoining the villages are more susceptible to disease and poaching.

Bison or Gaur retreat to the hillside and perhaps the plateau during a verdant season in winter as they are coarse feeders. Unfortunately, the bovine is extinct in Bandhavgarh.

The plateau at Bandhavgarh and Kanha are worth exploring on jungle safari in the parks. A holistic insight into the wildlife and the ecosystem is the way to enjoy these tiger havens. The pristine forests have so much to offer that a lifetime is not enough.

Bandhavgarh fort plateau, Ghoda Damn, Cave No 10, and Bamni Dadar at Kanha are must-visits on a long-haul stay.