Less Seen Animals - Central Indian Tiger Reserves

The tiger reserves in Central India are a major focus of attention as far as tiger tourism is concerned. This comes through the high visibility of this extremely endangered animal in the country. Tiger chases in the parks have given a bad name to tourism by and large in these magnificent reserves.

Not surprisingly every one wishes to see the tiger. It is our beloved Earth's most coveted animal, charismatic to the bone and mystical. Irrespective of the conservation ethos of our ancient scriptures we have managed the reverse. Wild tiger sighting is an experience of a lifetime. First time or last you never come out of it.

The reserves of Central India or MP have a high density of tigers namely Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench. Besides they are intact ecosystems with amazing biodiversity. This is to be experienced in totality in order to enjoy nature. As interest in nature deepens a desire for a holistic experience of ecosystems is a natural precursor.

Every element of nature's wonderful creation excites and thrills. It gives meaning to our own existence on Earth. A lifetime is not enough to experience these pristine tiger havens in totality. But whatever more you experience is enough.

On tiger safaris, other animals seen in the forests and grasslands are Nilgai, swamp deer (Kanha), sambar, spotted deer, langur, wild boar, jackal, wild dog, bison, and oft barking deer. A leopard sighting is the thrill of a lifetime and so is that of the sloth bear.

Rarely seen are the mouse deer recently discovered at Kanha, four-horned deer - endemic species, Indian wolf - highly endangered, and hyena. It is most exciting to see the nightlife albeit night safaris in the park are not allowed. One can certainly go through on the common roads outside the park. Animals often seen on night rounds are leopards on the prowl, sloth bears, jungle cats, civet cats, porcupines, foxes, ratel, and mouse deer? some birds like night jars, large owls, and Eurasian thicknee. It is possible to see Hyenas and Wolves at nighttime wherever they survive.

The reptiles are shy and extremely nocturnal, most commonly seen are the monitor lizard, python, cobra, krait, viper, rat snake, keelbacks, and grass snakes. Many species of tortoise can be seen in ponds. The rivers in these tiger reserves do not hold mugger or gharial. They are found in Ken River Sanctuary near Panna National Park.

In India, wild safaris hold an element of surprise. Animals en masse are rarely seen. A dull day can turn into an electrifying moment in one go. Trekking skills help a lot but it is luck that dominates for one and all.

The tiger reserves are places for exciting birding in Madhya Pradesh for birders. More than two hundred fifty avian species can be checked and listed. These are ideal destinations for forest birding in India.

Wildlife Tourism - Changing Paradigm

The Central Indian tiger reserves are the most popular wildlife safari destinations in India. Incidentally, they have become the hub of tiger tourism. This has opened up an industry that is unique and unparalleled in Madhya Pradesh. 

People from all walks of life in the vicinity and far are being benefited due to the influx of a large number of tourists for tiger safaris. Tourism though a big money earner has its own burden to carry forth. But whence the heritage is in a perfect state of preservation and tourism is responsible, the benefits far outweigh the negatives. Nevertheless, the status of the tiger and wildlife in general in India is precariously threatened. Hence it is imperative to keep the pressure of tiger tourism at the lowest level - which is already being done in the tiger reserves as a gradual process. For some, the onus of animals being endangered and ecosystems being ravaged lies on eco-tourism. This is a gross misconception bordering on ignorance and perhaps prejudice. The proponent of such notions needs to redefine such notions taking into account a wider perspective. 

The impelling disaster is due to extensive deforestation, man-animal conflict, and organized poaching. Much needs to be done as regards these factors. In breeding and disease are the next big ones. I have been visiting Kanha and Bandhavgarh since the seventies whence tiger tourism was ready to take off. Subsequently, the number of tourists swelled fourfold and so did the wild animals. In this period the ecosystems peaked with the conservative measure in action. The tiger made a comeback in the parks, though persecution continued in nonprotected areas outside. 

The administration had a double task of managing wildlife, burgeoning tourist numbers, and accommodations. This was well done, the regulations in place did a fine job of containing tourism in the core zones. The recent changes in Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench are suggestive of this ongoing process of managing tourism. But the paranoia that exists vis a vis tiger status sometimes leads to ad hoc policies perhaps without consultation with the industry. More Info: Tiger Conservation Group Kanha In my personal opinion tiger tourism has played a crucial role in education and creating awareness of our wonderful wild heritage. This has propelled conservation in India and augured a new value system for the wilderness. 

Old hunting records suggest that wild animals were treated as pariahs, especially the carnivores. This is one of the prime reasons for the extermination of tigers, leopards, wild dogs, hyenas, wolf and so forth in many parts of India. This drastic perception has been removed amongst a large set of people who have visited these ecosystems. They have certainly voiced their opinions elsewhere. Visitation is a close encounter of the first kind...and the voice has gone far. Even those who have never been to tiger reserves have changed their outlook to positive. 

A more conciliatory approach is required as far as wildlife tourism in India is concerned. Wildlife safaris are a nondestructive way of appreciating nature close. The age-old concept of wildlife as an elite indulgence has to be done away with. The increasing cost of tiger tourism will have a limiting effect on the benefits that accrue. There should be special packages for school groups, NGOs, and the underprivileged such that message spreads far and wide. Eco-tourism encourages the empowerment of local communities and is profit-sharing, educative, and entertaining as well. Why not?

Wild Bovids: Indian Bison

Though not as popular as the tiger, Indian bison or gaur is an extremely majestic animal. The appearance is striking with a reach of five and a half feet to six feet and a weight of 700 to 1000 kg. The species is extremely muscular and shapely with white stockings...nature's striking adornment. The protruding dorsal ridge and dewlaps are typical to males who are glistening black (violet) in color. The fawn-colored females are smaller with inward horns and a less prominent dorsal ridge. The animal is the epitome of fierce strength, and looks fearful, though it is shy by nature.

Gaur belongs to the ox race and the name bison is a misnomer. It is a gregarious animal and as a coarse feeder, it has a penchant for floral elements on hillsides. It is a hill animal and is stressed out to descend up to the grasslands or meadows in Kanha and elsewhere in summer. The only species of Guar North of Narmada was at Bandhavgarh but the disease took its toll and none survive.

The largest population of Gaur (Bos gaurus) is found in the Melghat tiger reserve followed by Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh India. The animals live in herds of ten to forty and forage in grasslands at Kanha. Docile by nature they can ferociously defend their calves from charging tigers. Mostly silent the calls are a series of gutturals and woofs.

The big cat is their only predator and hunts the young ones and often adults. But tiger predation is not to a threatening extent...diseases are. The species is susceptible to rinderpest and foot and mouth disease. An epidemic in 1976 at Kanha tiger reserve took a heavy toll on this majestic bovine. The animals are very shy and like swamp deer cannot survive along with man.

Not much is known about the species, but they are hardy animals, true to their order, and survive in many National Parks in India. Their closest relative is the Banteng found in Eastern India.

The disease carriers are the livestock in the villages nearby the park. As a rule, the livestock has to be inoculated against such disease. The animals in protected areas are not in danger but those outside are unheard of leaving Kanha and Pench.

The herd consists of young ones and females and is led by an old female. The adult males take over the herd during breeding and then stay separate in groups of 2 or 3 or even solitary. The animal has a crucial role in the food chain and in preserving the ecosystem of dense forests.

Table Land Bandhavgarh & Kanha

The tiger reserves in Central India are unique with diverse terrain - typically rising and falling. The undulating terrain creates niche habitats often extensive.

While Bandhavgarh, North of Narmada is situated on the fringe of Vindhya Hill Range the forest extends to meet Achanakmar wildlife sanctuary which is partially contiguous with Kanha. Maikal Hill Range of Satpuda extends into Maharastra where Melghat Tiger Reserve is situated. Kanha is partially contiguous with Pench Tiger Reserve in Satpuda/Satpura Hills. This was once a contiguous forest patch spreading more than five thousand sq km.

Described as Central Indian Highlands By James Forsyth, the reserves are the true tiger havens. The topography accords bewildering diversity to floral elements which in turn creates habitats for multitudinous life forms. Once flourishing with tigers and Central Indian mammals the preserves have been brought back from certain denudation and catastrophe by conservation programs.

Though the forests have been reduced due to continuous wood logging in the past, the pristine forests still retain their glory.

Short hills and tablelands are unique to all tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh albeit the degree may vary slightly. Hillocks at Kanha called Dadars, are not as steep as some are in Bandhavgarh - more cliffs than mountains. The walls of the cliffs at places are steep and rocky and provide excellent nesting grounds for vultures and eagles.

Bahmni Dadar at Kanha and Bandhavgarh Hill at Bandhavgarh have large tablelands or plateaus. The floral elements vary at every climb eventually giving rise to a spectacular scape at the top. As you move up these mountains, a change in the canopy is evident. The slopes covered with bamboo give rise to a more complex mix of herbs, shrubs, vines, and mixed forests. The ecosystem differs from the grounds below.

Rather than chasing tigers in the meadows, these plateaus offer new grounds for exploration. Less seen species of birds and mammals could be sighted on these tabletop mountains.

The plateau is flat mostly edaphic grasslands with scattered tree lines. In Kanha, I have seen the four-horned deer often at Bamni Dadar though no record is found in the plains. Out of reach, these are perfect breeding grounds and shelters for tigers. This could be one reason for the high fecundity seen in these tiger reserves. Tigers in plains adjoining the villages are more susceptible to disease and poaching.

Bison or Gaur retreat to the hillside and perhaps the plateau during a verdant season in winter as they are coarse feeders. Unfortunately, the bovine is extinct in Bandhavgarh.

The plateau at Bandhavgarh and Kanha are worth exploring on jungle safari in the parks. A holistic insight into the wildlife and the ecosystem is the way to enjoy these tiger havens. The pristine forests have so much to offer that a lifetime is not enough.

Bandhavgarh fort plateau, Ghoda Damn, Cave No 10, and Bamni Dadar at Kanha are must-visits on a long-haul stay.

Tigers in the grasslands

Large extensive edaphic grasslands are typical to many of our tiger reserves. Earlier inhabited by local tribesmen these precious habitats were vacated for the subsistence of wild species to whom the habitat belonged for eons. The grasslands are prime habitats for deer species, especially for animals like the swamp deer. Swamp deer survive solely on marshy grasslands in India. The swamp deer or Barasingha at Kanha is an exception as it has adapted to an existence on hard ground. The grassy meadows are at the fulcrum of activities in our tiger reserves.

Most of the prey and predator saga unfolds here - the grassland is a vital element of the food chain. Bandhavgarh is a prime example of a grassland ecosystem interspersed with dense Sal forests. Many of the grasslands inhabited by tribesmen have been vacated. Inundated by rivulets, the wet marshy grasslands are preferred hunting grounds for the majestic tigers. Bandhavgarh though small is a prolific breeding ground for Bengal tigers. The undulating terrain, inaccessibility, dense canopy, and large prey base is the reason. The survival rate of the cubs is very high in this picturesque animal kingdom. The tall grass act as effective camouflage and hence allows the tigers to creep close to the prey before striking. 

Unlike lions, tigers cannot run for a long distance hence they hunt by ambush. The marshy grasslands are effective killing grounds and the big cats love them. They are excellent for raring cubs in absolute safety and shelter. The grassland ecosystem is frequented by a large number of herbivores and hence are ideal prey base. The most powerful of the tiger's reign over these habitats. The meadows are also frequented by territorial females and young males. The struggle for survival means the fittest should exist. Prime grasslands in BTR are Chur Behera, Raj Behera, Chakradhara, Bathan, Sehra, and Mahman. High fecundity, low mortality, and abundant prey make the preserve an ideal tiger habitat with the highest density. For this reason, tiger sightings in the wild are very high. The jungle roads intersect prime tiger habitats in order to accord high visibility to these magical cats. The tourism infrastructure is well-developed. 

A large number of wildlife resorts are available for stay in Bandhavgarh. One can avail of the best packages for accommodation. For safari, jeeps can be hired at Tala village or arranged by the hotels. The tiger reserve is well protected though danger looms all over. Bandhavgarh nature preserve in India is the best place to see tigers in the wild. Every year thousands from all over the World visit the park.

Birds of Kanha

Kanha Forest though popular for tiger safaris is an excellent bird habitat. Though a diverse habitat by all means it lacks large water bodies. The wetlands basically comprise Sondhar and Bisanpura and a medium-sized tank at Kanha Meadow called Shravan Taal. There are many small shallow lakes beside the rivers Banjar and Halon and their tributaries. The water bodies are the habitat of quite a number of aquatic birds but are not as impressive as in other birding habitats.

The National Park is an excellent habitat for forest birds as well as some grassland birds. The surveys conducted by me and many naturalists checklist an exciting number of resident and migratory birds.

The most popular birds of Kanha are those that are easily seen. Among them are Grey Headed Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet, Racket Tailed Drongo, Golden and Black Headed Oriole, Shama, Blackrumped Flameback, Grey Francolin, Painted Francolin, Northern Pintail, Lesser Whistling Teal, Common Teal, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Grey Hornbill, Alexandrine Parakeet, Red Billed Malkoha, Plum Headed Parakeet, Rose Ringed Parakeet, Crested Hawk Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Grey Headed Fishing Eagle,White Eyed Buzzard, Oriental honey Buzzard, Shikra, Osprey, White Backed Vulture, King Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Brown Fish Owl, tawny Fish Owl, Mottled Fish Owl, Jungle Owlet, Spotted Owlet, Indian Scimitar Babbler, Paradise Flycatcher, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Open Billed Stork, Painted Stork, Woolly Necked Stork, Black Ibis, White Ibis, Great Cormorant, Egrets, Orange Headed Ground Thrush, Common Iora, Brown Cheeked Fulvetta, Spangled Drongo, White Bellied Drongo, Ashy Drongo, Black Drongo, Gold Mantled Chloropsis, Jerdon’s Leaf Bird, Common Wood Shrike, Large Cuckoo Shrike, Black Headed Cuckoo Shrike, Oriental Turtle Dove, Red Collared Dove, Emerald Dove, Green Footed Pigeon, Laughing Dove, Spotted Dove, Eurasian Ring Dove, Black Naped Monarch, Verditor Flycatcher, Blue Capped Rock Thrush, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Red Throated Flycatcher, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, Grey Headed Canary Flycatcher, Little Minivet, Black redstart, Rosy Starling, Jungle Myna, Chestnut Bellied Nuthatch, Velvet Fronted Nuthatch, Great Tit, Black Lored Tit, Wire Tailed Swallow, Plain Martin, Barn Swallow, Red Rumped Swallow, Streak Throated Swallow, Grey Breasted Prinia, Crested Tree Swift, Plain Prinia, Hume’s Warbler, Lesser White Throat, Common Chiff Chaff, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, Sulphur Bellied Warbler, Tawny Bellied Babbler, Yellow Eyed Babbler, Purple Swamphen, Black and White Ibis, Peacock, red Jungle Fowl, and many more birds.

The birds check listed includes residents and winter migrants. There are more than two hundred and fifty avian species in the Kanha Nature Preserve in the state of Madhya Pradesh.

The best birding season is winter from Mid October to March. After March migrants depart from the tiger reserve. Kanha offers the best tiger sightings and wildlife watching. Like in Bandhavgarh preserve one can enjoy birding as well as tiger safaris at Kanha. Most of the birds can be sighted on tiger safaris in the park while trekking in the buffer zone will yield more sightings.

Birding in Central India is becoming very popular as the concept of forest birding dawns upon tourists. The added fun of enjoying the preserves is having an all-encompassing outlook. Bird watching adds to your experience at Central Indian Parks. Seek a good naturalist.

Bandhavgarh Personified

The jungles of India intrigue and fascinate humans. They exude an aura of mystery and mystical charm and unparalleled natural beauty. The animal kingdoms in India for thousands of years have bedazzled humans and attracted them to admire, explore study, and record aspects of nature's masterpiece. Throughout annals of history animals and birds and forests find mentioned by kings, court historians, writers, poets, ascetics, and local communities.
Photos By. Mr.Kamaljeet Hora

Bandhavgarh jungle was once contiguous with Central India Highlands and Vindhyan Ranges. It is now more or less fragmented and isolated, connected perhaps with Kanha and Achanakmar with nonviable badly deforested corridors.

Small and confined, the jungles of Bandhavgarh are the epitome of exceptional beauty and exude an aura of mystique. The spectacular esoteric, fairy tale settings and element of mystery remain. The terrain is unique in steep rocky hills, marshy grasslands, and a dense canopy of tropical moist forests. In between the forested slopes and marshy glens traverse small rivers - lifelines of the ecosystem. The enigmatic landscape heightens the perception of depth, stirs imagination, and peppers mind and body.

The thrill of exploring mysterious jungle life is heightened by equally mysterious elusive animals that exude charisma, fear, and awe. The tiger rules supreme, King personified and embellished in myths, arts, literature, and cultures all over the World.

Bandhavgarh in its niche habitats, unfathomable caves amidst rocky crevices, towering hillocks,  and sun-baked plateaus nourishes remains of ancient kingdoms. Of Kings and Queens who ruled in glorious times and were eventually vanquished by conquerors. The ruins lie scattered unfolding saga of human civilizations that sought shelter in the unreachable and secure womb of these dense forests.

Bandhavgarh is a fascinating blend of ancient history and equally fascinating jungle life. The pristine forests, prehistoric petrographic and man-made caves, zoomorphic idols, ancient temples, stables, reservoirs, and a magnificent fort stand testimony to ancient civilizations that coexisted with nature.

The park is the best place to watch tigers in the wild. In a small area of 400 plus sq. km, a large population of Bengal tigers survives. The tigers of Bandhavgarh have been epitomized and made eternal by filmmakers, wildlife photographers, and storytellers alike. Be it the legendary Badka, Sita, or awesome Charger all have been objects of sustained documentation and study. The stars of this wildlife resort have propelled it to International fame and mention. Visited by a large number of inbound and Indian tourists the park invites more and more visitors every year. One can see a large cross-section of the park on safaris and enjoy big games and birding. The resort offers all king of hotel accommodations from super luxurious to budget.

The core focus in Bandhavgarh National Park in MP has always been on tigers due to high visibility and fecundity. On safari besides tigers and leopards, one can see many deer species, lesser carnivores, and small often nocturnal mammals. Bird life at Bandhavgarh is interesting and invites many birdwatchers to the preserve. The impressive biodiversity is best experienced during a long stay and repeated visits.

The park is accessible from Jabalpur by road (4 hrs +) which is connected by flight service with New Delhi. Utkal Express makes a short stop at Umaria rail head about 32 km from the tiger preserve. From Khajuraho, BTR is a 6 to 7 hours drive.