Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Wild Images Galore

Male Tiger
Tiger cubs
Tiger
Tiger with kill

Sambar in Misty Morning


Peacock
It is amazing just when you start to think it is a professional job...from out of the blue a photo shooter arises. I came across these wonderful, some soulful images by Mr. Kamaljeet Hora of Raipur. He is by

Indian Roller
Crested Hawk Eagle
Bengal tiger cub
Lioness
Leopard
Brown Fish Owl
Tiger Walk
profession a businessman and not a wildlife photographer. But it seems, he excels in whatever he does, such is his enthusiasm and commitment. An image speaks a thousand words.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Elephants in Tiger Reserve

Shiva was touching eleven feet and weighed perhaps five tons whence it killed two people in Kanha. This was perhaps the first such tragic incident in the National Park. The elephant was in an aggressive state of musth whence its mahout was transferred to control wild elephants in Sarguja District.

Elephants play a major role in the tiger reserves of India. Ecologically they are destructive in reserves that are not natural elephant habitats. Bandhavgarh Gate is the best example of how these pachyderms have ravaged the forests. There is no historical record of these animals in the wilds of Madhya Pradesh. In such places, they should be fed more and should not be allowed to forage in the forests extensively.

Anyway, their role in tiger reserves is to help patrol and protect from poachers. They are the prime attraction during the safaris whence the parks are open. Tiger show - much criticized in the past- is the best method to show tourists the magnificent animal in the wild.

Elephants are captured in Eastern and Southern India using various methods. They are then sold to buyers and are trained by elephant riders or mahouts. This might be not legal now. The training starts right from a young age. At Bandhavgarh I have experienced a young male being trained by the mahout it is a grilling exercise but definitely not cruel. Incidentally, I was there whence a calf was born at the reserve. It was for the first time in the history of the tiger reserves that a birth had taken place in captivity.

Elephants in Central Indian tiger reserves are a prominent feature. In the tiger show, the tiger is traced by the elephants and mahouts and then cordoned off. The tourist then rides on the elephant back up to the spot and is brought back. It is a short ride but fulfills many a dream of sighting a tiger in the wild as well as sitting on the huge beast. The most interesting part is how the huge beast traverses through dense forests and engaged in active conversation with its rider.

Most of the preserves have six to eight tame elephants which provide yeomen services. The pachyderms though tame have a wild instinct in them forever. They are like family members of the mahout for lifelong. There is a strong bond between the animal and its rider. It is an intelligent animal and very useful.

Monday, March 21, 2011

Bandhavgarh Then & Now

I saw my first male tiger in Bandhavgarh National Park in the seventies. The place was called Kill Khunta, since bait was usually tied there to attract tigers. The baiting practice was thankfully stopped but the tigers do not go hungry at all. In that dusky twilight, I could see one of nature's marvelous creations. The awe and admiration have never ceased since.

Back from the brink of disaster, the little paradise was not throbbing with tigers as conservation practice had just been put in place. The aftermath of reckless hunting had come to a stop and recovery was on the way. Though isolated and fragmented, the reserve retained its glorious ancient past and amazing Sal forests.

There were few visitors, and the accommodation was limited to the Maharani's Kothi for the privileged and the Forest/PWD R.H - rest house.

Eventually, MPTDC stepped in and established the White Tiger Lodge. Then more tourists started to arrive with propaganda so created. The tourism infrastructure had been put in place with a number of elephants for rides. The jungle roads were being maintained. This was the hunting reserve of the erstwhile Maharajas of Rewa. It was the largest Kingdom in India during the post-independence period.

The discovery of white tigers in the adjacent forests had already opened the floodgates of popularity. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve is situated in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. It is one of the finest places to see the tiger in the wild. The preserve is one of the most picturesque destinations - a little tiger haven tucked away in the deep recess of India's wild heartland. Under the project tiger, the area covered is about 1100 sq. km including the neighboring Pan Patha Wildlife Sanctuary. The core now constitutes 600 plus sq. km as against 145 or so earlier.

On our earlier visits, we could count around 60 plus heads of gaur or Indian Bison. Gradually we saw the numbers dwindle till the end came somewhere in the nineties. This was a major blow to the habitat, the loss of a coarse grazer was irreparable. Rinderpest & FPL was the scourge carried by maddening numbers of livestock in the periphery. Though some gaur has been relocated from Kanha recently, we have to wait for success.

It was obvious from the sightings that the prey base was increasing. The sightings also confirmed that big cats in the park were on the increase. In a few years, the reserve was a conservation success - it still is.

Another noticeable fact was the increasing number of tourists as well as the hotel resorts. The park became the number one tourist draw thanks to a high density of tigers. The core area of the park is the finest habitat for cats. Due to the slush and grass in swampy marshy areas hunting was easy.

The village relocation had taken place from within the core and some were due which eventually did not happen - Kalwa & Magdi. The edaphic grasslands left by the tribal communities inside were overtaken by the prey base. This was like bounty from heaven since the grass was much-wanted fodder for the deer and the bison.

Ruins

The remains of ancient civilizations added luster to the splendorous jungle resort. The ancient man-made caves still exist with petroglyphs and Brahmi script on the walls. The forests experienced many warring civilizations throughout, as history unfolded. The dynasties left their marks on the ruins which are now ruled thankfully by the big cats. The place since evolution belonged to the wild denizens later intruded on by humans.

The ancient ruins add an esoteric touch to the wildlife haven. Sesh Shaiyya on the way to Bandhavgarh Hillock is right out of the fairy tale. Its pristine surroundings and springs are in reality best described as fairy tale settings. The reclining statue of Lord Vishnu beside the pond makes it a place of religious importance for the locals.

On the way up are a number of zoomorphic statues of Lord Visnu some towering. Matsya Avatar - Varah Avatar and so on. The Laxman Temple sits atop the hill facing the beautiful grasslands valleys and neighboring mountains. Picturesque indeed! The Bandhavgarh Hill is steep and about 800m MSL. the hillock are an ideal breeding ground for Long Billed Vulture.

Bandhavgarh Fort at the top lies in ruins arch, a man-made reservoir, statues, and temple remains are littered all over. The remains boast of exquisite and colorful sculptural practice & art of ancient India. They are an archeological find dating back two thousand years in the recess of this old country.

The plateau is extensive and gives one an eerie feeling a spread of ruined civilization, tall grasslands, and a haunting specter of open spaces, mystical and esoteric as of the pristine wild country. The alarm cry or the tiger roar can be unnerving as I have experienced often.

Priest & Tiger

The Old Brahmin Pujari was a legendary figure. He walked about 11 km to the Laxman Temple, under the care of his family, since the Maharajas were ordained. He must have been the most familiar figure for the tigers that walked aside from him. He once told me that his meetings with tigers were often and it was you go your way and I go my way affair, strictly. He died a natural death and I believe his son has taken over.

Hills Glens & Rivers

Mahaman, Chur Bohera, Raj Bohera, Bathan are well-preserved grasslands. Their rivers crisscross Johilla, Charanganga, and Umrar. Must-visit for tiger sightings and landscape are Badi Gufa, Ghoda Damen, 10 No.GUFA and Andheri Jhiriya. The terrain is torturous and at places very steep. The safari is exciting over steep climbs, across grasslands and river beds the cliff tower over you all the time.

Forests

The abundance of SAL is evident but the park encompasses some of the finest bamboo slopes and mixed forests. The canopy is dense but withers as one moves along the periphery due to wood logging in the buffer.

Buffer

Once a large contiguous tract of the forest the park is now isolated. Neighboring forests are Pan Patha, Gunghuti and the Sihora Forest ranges at some distance. the forests leading to Amarkantak and Achanakmar belts have been badly denuded hence there is no migration path for any species. All around the reserve forest are in a bad state and hence tiger habitat has been reduced. There are villages surrounding the buffer and within with a large number of livestock. Except for tourism alternative means of survival have not been explored.

Tiger Safari

Tourism in the tiger reserves of Central India is monitored and well-managed. I have seen tiger tourism grow from infancy and simultaneously the wildlife has increased as well. Tourism has benefited local communities which were until then dependent upon infertile lands. The need for accommodation has brought in many hotels. The established hotels of Bandhavgarh employ a large number of youth. Most of these are from the local communities. Many get employment in the forest department as guides, chara cutters, guards and naturalists, etc. Plus the park is a nature library many tourists come and go with a greater understanding of nature, admiration for other life forms, and a desire to conserve valuable heritage.

The Tiger

It has been one hell of a journey for the beleaguered animal. It has been ignominiously pushed back to small pockets along with associates. We have never ceased to destroy nature, we have overpowered other life forms and taken their land away. The majestic cat is a silent and helpless observer as the axe continues to ravage his kingdoms all over the country.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Grasslands larger than life

The Meadows

Unique feature of the tiger reserves of Central India are the grasslands that lie interspersed between rugged mountains and enchanting valleys. Also known as boheras in Bandhavgarh and maidan in Kanha these are hub of activities in the ecosystem.

The grasslands or meadows are the center of attraction for man animals and birds alike. The tourist flock these meadows in order to see the tiger and the deer. Since the thick canopy obstructs wildlife sighting the tourist jeeps prefer to move around the grasslands in order to see the tigers.

Tigers love the tall grasses of the prairies and sulk in between to ambush prey. They love the cover of the tall grass and the shade. In Bandhavgarh tiger reserve the Boheras are marshy and have proven to be excellent hunting grounds for the tigers. The slush hinders fast movement of the deer and the big cats find it easy to pounce upon them.

In Kanha the meadows besides supporting the tigers are home to critically endangered Swamp Deer. This is the only hard ground Barasingha population left in the wild. The deer now survives in good enough numbers after it was brought back from brink of extinction. The swamp deer subsists only on certain species of grass and poses conservation challenge to park authorities.

The grasses are frequented not only by tigers and deer they are home to many species of birds and reptiles. With luck one can see the reticulated python or other snakes. Most often seen grass birds are plain prinia, jungle prinia, zitting cisticola, warblers, common stonechat, pipits and larks, francolins painted and grey, munias or avadavat, storks and many others.

In order to stalk prey tigers frequent these grassy maidans. Since the concentration of deer is very high hunting is much easier. In the open spaces movement is not hampered like in thick canopy. They are easily camouflaged in the dry grass and can hide easily. Hence spotting tigers in grasslands is not as easy as people presume.

The most popular grasslands in Bandhavgarh are Chur Bohera, Raj bohera, bathan and chakradhara. Similarly the Kanha meadow is most popular, preferred by animals and tourists alike. Others are Saunf meadow where Swamp Deer breed, Kisli meadow and Parsa tola to name a few.

Most of the grasslands are small in area whence compared with Dhikala Chuad in Corbett Tiger Reserve. The height is much less than elephant grass. Most of the grasslands in Central Indian Tiger Reserves in MP are edaphic. They were earlier settlements which have been trans located elsewhere. The vacated fields have been overtaken by local species of grass and secondary scrub.

The savannas are always under threat from fire and over grazing. Thankfully live stock is not allowed inside the core area and the park authorities are constantly guarding the habitats from fires. The predators maintain the right population of deer hence prevent overgrazing. A major challenge being faced by conservation team in Kanha emanates from the lendia tree. This tree is slowly encroaching into the grasslands and reducing them. The swamp deer depend entirely on these ecosystems hence to stop the encroachment or leave nature to take care of things is a difficult decision to be taken.

Besides habitats of many species in these National Parks the savannas are vital to the ecosystem. They constitute major support system to these diverse habitats and have tremendous water retention capacity.

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Bison Translocation - New Dimension in Conservation

The recent ongoing trans location of Bison or Gaur from Kanha to Bandhavgarh TR accords a new dimension to wildlife conservation in India. Earlier the trans location of the Swamp Deer from Kanha to Bandhavgarh had failed miserably. It resulted in the death of all the Swamp Deer being trans located.

It was not only tragic but a great loss as well since the swamp deer or Hard Ground Barasingha is a highly endangered sub species found only in Kanha. The swamp deer were being translocated to Bandhavgarh a habitat which holds no historical record or evidence of swamp deer ever present there. But that was way back.

With induction of new technologies and technique the Bison trans location to Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve would be more successful. Nature conservation in India is in a piteous state in spite of the country making long strides in every field. Whatever is said, nature is accorded a low priority here.

The conservation impetus thrives due to few individuals, NGO and some dedicated and committed officials who go unsung. The required political will is not there though there are exceptions.

The trans location of Bison is going to be a major challenge since the stock being translocated is not familiar with the terrain. The Bison in India are local migratory species and the migration pattern is strongly ingrained in the genes. The only hope is that the population was once interconnected before habitat destruction took place. This would mean presence of genetic traits which will help the coarse grazer to migrate to suitable pockets as seasons change.

But the challenge will remain, the threat from foot and mouth disease, rinderpest is for real. Until unless proper inoculation of live stock in the buffers takes place the whole exercise will be futile. I strongly believe that the local extinction of this bovine was due disease. There is no palpable reason why the stock would migrate to another habitat leaving the present habitat which is well conserved.

Another plus point is that both the tiger reserves are similar in habitat or forest types, though topography may differ. Bandhavgarh was the last and only strong hold of Gaur North of Narmada River. If the success takes place than the tragic local extinction would fade into history.

Though prevention is better than cure no one minds re-establishment of locally rare species. This is the case with Panna and Sariska as well. Spreading of rare genetic stocks in suitable habitats augurs greater survival chance.

Alarms bells should sound in case of Gir Lions a population enclosed in one habitat. An epidemic like FPL can wipe the whole population. Donating a pride to Palpur Kuno would mean one step forward in conservation. This in case of highly isolated lion population and only sub species in the World - Asiatic Lion.

Friday, December 24, 2010

Kanha Tigers

Immensely popular as the best tiger habitat in the World, Kanha justifies all glory. This pristine forest has always been a tiger habitat and offers a suitable home to amazing mammals and biodiversity.

For me Kanha remains a mystery in spite of many many visits since last thirty years. From a conservation center in infancy to ideal tiger heaven today. No wonder it is the most visited park in India for tiger safaris. As per latest news, the reserve is host to more than 90 tigers in the wild. It is an ideal breeding ground for tigers, as I have seen since years.

Tiger sightings are often bleak and often magnificent. That is how the animal is, mysterious, elusive and mystical. It can be days before one sees a tiger or sometimes there is a windfall. Tiger sightings are by no means estimation of its population at Kanha, but one comes across a lot of tell tale signs. These are indicator of the tiger's presence and trained eyes can make them out. Kanha tigers are in good health though menace of poaching and man animal conflicts loom overhead. Any kind of complacency can be disastrous as has been observed at Panna and Sariska. The conservation centers in India should be alert and protective of this species.

Recently I was at Kanha Tiger Reserve and visited the fine habitats near the Kanha meadow. Due to weather conditions the animals kept themselves in deep confines. But any way I was able to come across a tigress after lot of efforts. My guests wore fat smiles'... after lot of dejection earlier.

Tiger sightings are more by chance but there is always an option for a sleuth he!he!. One can come to conclusions that increase the chance of sighting the tiger in its home. I received a lot of handshakes and pats on the back. I was happy with the driver of the Kanha resort were I was staying. Some of the wildlife lodges make special efforts in training their drivers and naturalists. responsible tourism most of the staff is local.

Kanha safaris are highly organised and one must follow the rules and regulations fully. The park authorities cooperate with the tourism industry but do not allow tourists to go against the rules. This helps in offering the tourists a holistic experience of the preserve. As part of responsibility the tourists themselves must set an example of responsible behaviour while on safaris. After all we are in the land of the tiger and millions of life forms that are making their last stand in such forests.

Thursday, October 28, 2010

Less Seen Animals - Central Indian Tiger Reserves

The tiger reserves in Central India are a major focus of attention as far as tiger tourism is concerned. This comes through the high visibility of this extremely endangered animal in the country. Tiger chases in the parks have given a bad name to tourism by and large in these magnificent reserves.

Not surprisingly every one wishes to see the tiger. It is our beloved Earth's most coveted animal, charismatic to the bone and mystical. Irrespective of the conservation ethos of our ancient scriptures we have managed the reverse. Wild tiger sighting is an experience of a lifetime. First time or last you never come out of it.

The reserves of Central India or MP have a high density of tigers namely Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench. Besides they are intact ecosystems with amazing biodiversity. This is to be experienced in totality in order to enjoy nature. As interest in nature deepens a desire for a holistic experience of ecosystems is a natural precursor.

Every element of nature's wonderful creation excites and thrills. It gives meaning to our own existence on Earth. A lifetime is not enough to experience these pristine tiger havens in totality. But whatever more you experience is enough.

On tiger safaris, other animals seen in the forests and grasslands are Nilgai, swamp deer (Kanha), sambar, spotted deer, langur, wild boar, jackal, wild dog, bison, and oft barking deer. A leopard sighting is the thrill of a lifetime and so is that of the sloth bear.

Rarely seen are the mouse deer recently discovered at Kanha, four-horned deer - endemic species, Indian wolf - highly endangered, and hyena. It is most exciting to see the nightlife albeit night safaris in the park are not allowed. One can certainly go through on the common roads outside the park. Animals often seen on night rounds are leopards on the prowl, sloth bears, jungle cats, civet cats, porcupines, foxes, ratel, and mouse deer? some birds like night jars, large owls, and Eurasian thicknee. It is possible to see Hyenas and Wolves at nighttime wherever they survive.

The reptiles are shy and extremely nocturnal, most commonly seen are the monitor lizard, python, cobra, krait, viper, rat snake, keelbacks, and grass snakes. Many species of tortoise can be seen in ponds. The rivers in these tiger reserves do not hold mugger or gharial. They are found in Ken River Sanctuary near Panna National Park.

In India, wild safaris hold an element of surprise. Animals en masse are rarely seen. A dull day can turn into an electrifying moment in one go. Trekking skills help a lot but it is luck that dominates for one and all.

The tiger reserves are places for exciting birding in Madhya Pradesh for birders. More than two hundred fifty avian species can be checked and listed. These are ideal destinations for forest birding in India.