Swamp Deer at Kanha

The park management at Kanha National Park swells with pride whence the swamp deer comes into the picture. The swamp deer or Hard Ground Barasingha is a race found only at Kanha in MP, India. The taxonomic classification is Cervus duavcelli branderi. Named after Dunbar Brander who first discovered the fact.

The difference lies in the hoof which has been modified into adapting to the hard ground. The hoof is not spread out or splayed unlike other species of deer. The swampy grounds in Kanha are not extensive hence the modification. This red deer species is one of the most charismatic animals along with the tiger.

The deer is primarily dependent upon certain species of grass and rarely goes for coarse feed. The habitat is the grasslands of Kanha, mainly the Saunf meadow where they breed, Bisanpura and Saunder. They are slowly occupying other grasslands as well. In summer large number of swamp deer can be seen around Kanha meadow. In instances, I have seen the deer entering the thick canopy.

The fully grown stag weighs approximately 180 kg and is smaller in dimension than the sambar deer. The females are smaller and light brown in color. Like all deer species, they are devoid of horns. The twelve tines have accorded it the name Barasingha (Bara=12, singha=horns). But the horns do not contain twelve tines always and the number can be less or up to 14 on average. The reddish-brown fur and shapely antlers make this a charismatic mammal.

The male swamp deer live in schools whence young but take over a female herd whence fully grown and out to mate. The mating takes place in the winter months of November and December whence grown-up male adorn their antlers with a long stripe of grass and mud. The mating calls reverberate throughout the valley. The stags indulge in power play with each other to mate with a doe in estrous. The territorial fights are rarely injurious, as much before the strength is decided. This is nature's way of ensuring the best gene transfer with minimal damage.

The gestation period is around six months and usually, a single fawn is born. The females care for the young. The fawn mortality is due to carnivores like the tiger, leopard, jackal, wild dog, and python and at times due to disease. In order to conserve the species a large mesh wire enclosure has been created in the park. This prevents predation from carnivores and reptiles. The reptiles were physically removed. The enclosure reduces the chances of infectious disease.

This is the saga of success, whence from sixty-plus animals the number has grown to over 300 heads. Thanks to George Schaller and other researchers this fact came to light and the enclosure was created. The number has stabilized at over three hundred and efforts are being made to increase the population.

The pride of Kanha National Park in MP is the main tourist attraction during the tiger safaris. With greater conservation efforts and advanced research, the population of this once gregarious deer should increase.

The increase in the population of the hard-ground Barasingha is essential if the animal has to be saved from extinction. The gregarious deer once thrived in large numbers in suitable habits around Kanha park. Now confined to the core this animal is highly susceptible to foot and mouth disease and rinderpest. The carriers are the livestock that occupies the buffer zone in very large numbers. Timely inoculation of the livestock is mandatory to prevent disease influx amongst the wild species.

Bandhavgarh ecosystem

Bandhavgarh is a moist deciduous tropical forest type. It is situated in the Vindhya Range which lies in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. The forest flora comprises Sal (Shorea Robusta) as the dominant species with Bamboo (Dendrocalamus strictus) on slopes of hills. The other tree elements comprise Saj, Dhawa, Bhilma, Tendu, Bel, Harra, Bija, Lyndia, Arjun, Mahua, Pipal, Banyan, Kosum, Palas, Salai, Gunjan, Char, Jamun, Aonla, Pakur, Kulu, Amaltas and many more. The woody climbers, herbs, and shrubs constitute the understory.

The grasslands of Bandhavgarh are marshily inundated by Charanganga, Johilla, and Umrar rivers. The marshy grasslands are ideal grounds for hunting Bengal tigers. Most of the grasslands at Bandhavgarh are edaphic but support the herbivores like spotted deer and sambar. There is no historical record of Swamp deer at Bandhavgarh National Park. The only coarse grazer Indian bison or gaur has lost ground here.

The terrain is undulating and comprises steep rocky cliffs many with forested slopes. The valleys that hold marshy grasslands, forest, and crisscrossing rivulets are prime habitats of the herbivores and carnivores follow them here.

There are thirty-two hillocks of which Bandhavgarh Hill is the highest. This is where the Fort is situated alongside Laxman Temple. On the way to the hill is Sesh Shaiiya a fairy pool with reclining Vishnu carved out of rock. On the way up there are many zoomorphic forms of Lord Vishnu carved out of the rocks. The hill expresses solitude and an esoteric charm difficult to behold. Very few tourists visit this place.

Of the grasslands called bahera, Chakradhara and Chur Bahera are famous for tiger safaris in Bandhavgarh. It is here that lot many tiger sightings take place. The Raj Bahera perhaps the largest was home to the gaurs and herds of deer and wild boar. I have experienced a few tiger sightings here. Other interesting places are Shera Dadra, Mahaman, Bathan, Ghoda Daman, and Andheri Jhiriya.

There are many water bodies, small lakes, ponds, water holes, and small streams that form the life support system of the park. Besides one can spot some water birds as well. The preserve is rich in bird life and can be constituted as a major birding spot for forest birds.

The tiger sits at the apex of the food chain and hence is the keystone species being a tertiary carnivore. The leopards and wild dogs are at the top rung of the food chain a degree less than the tigers. The consumers comprise mainly spotted deer, sambar, barking deer, and four-horned deer. The Nilgai keeps open areas of the park on the exterior of Bathan and elsewhere. The chinkara has not been seen in my numerous visits since last decade. The nocturnal animals are less seen as night safaris are not allowed in the park. Sloth bears, foxes, ratel, porcupines, civet cats, flying squirrels, and the rest can be seen on the night drives on the periphery of public roads. Jackals, mongooses, and jungle cats are diurnal. Flash and spotlights are not allowed. Hyenas and Indian wolves are less seen and their status is unknown. The sighting of the caracal is not confirmed. Mouse deer recently discovered in Kanha wildlife preserve is not check listed here.

The reptiles common are grass snakes, pythons, cobras, krait, vipers, rat snakes, keelbacks, tree snakes, and many more are less seen perhaps more apparent during the monsoons whence the preserve is closed. Monitor lizards and flying lizards are present here.

The insect life in thousands is yet to be discovered with butterflies being the most exciting elements. Signature spiders and other species are widespread while moths can be sighted here and there.

The producers are indescribable...perhaps a botanist would do a better job. But the floral diversity is as striking as the fauna is. From microorganisms to algae and fungi and exotic plants such as Sundew (Drossera indica) The park is limited by its canopy spread and the designated area by Project Tiger holds little meaning. The support systems are all around and habitats outside park confines are as important.

Bandhavgarh forests were earlier favored hunting grounds for Maharajas of Rewa. The intact ecosystem as of today is perhaps a result of the zealous preservation of the forests for their sport. After Independence Bandhavgarh Park was declared a tiger reserve. The project initiated by the government of India is to conserve tiger habitats and its tigers. The park has shown excellent response to conservation efforts. The tigers and other wildlife flourish with gusto.

The park has the highest density of tigers in India and hence is the best place to see tigers in the wild. Though not absolutely safe from poachers and wood smugglers the inaccessible hilly regions perhaps are a boon to wildlife here.

Wildlife in Bandhavgarh & Kanha Buffer

The National Parks in Madhya Pradesh and elsewhere in India are usually divided into two zones. The main sanctum sanctorum is referred to as the core zone while the outer forest cover is called the buffer zone. The sum total of the area of the two zones is the area of the park.

The core zone is devoid of any human settlement sans a research center, huts of the forest-beat guards, and the director's bungalow. The core can have government rest houses usually meant for VIPs and MPT hotels. The core zone is reserved for tiger tourism and wildlife safaris.

The buffer zone has human habitation in nonforest land and hotels in nontribal land. Most of the hotels in Bandhavgarh are situated in the buffer zone. I think there is now legislation in place which prohibits hotel construction in areas within some distance from the National Parks.

The buffer zone acts as a barrier to human activities and illegal intrusion in the park. Practically the buffer zone has as much of a dense canopy as the core zone. In the case of Bandhavgarh and Kanha, the buffer zone is devoid of long stretches of grasslands or meadows.

Leaving the grassland dwelling species as the Hard Ground Barasingha all mammals in the core zone inhabit the buffer as well. Some species as the Blue Bull, Indian Wolf, and Hyena prefer open stretches of fallow land and scrub forest. The status of these animals is in peril due intrusion of civilization and expanding agriculture.

It is difficult to see these animals in the park buffer and the Indian wolf is severely persecuted due to myth and fear. The genesis of man-animal conflict lies in the buffer zone which is subjected to grazing pressure from the livestock of enormous magnitude.

The carnivores at times hunt on the livestock creating ill will amongst the villagers who in turn at time poison the remaining kill. For leopards and tigers who roam in the buffers, livestock is easy prey and the temptation to kill is overwhelming. Though as in Bandhavgarh & Kanha the prey base is sufficient in the buffer zone. The intrusion by deer in the agriculture fields on the periphery is another reason for man-animal conflict. The irony is that we have intruded into their habitat, not the animals. The burgeoning population and increasing dependence on agriculture is the main reason.

The spotted deer come very close to human habitation in the buffer zone at the night but the Bison in the case of Kanha is shy. Small deer like the Barking deer and the Four-horned deer are shy as well. The Chinkara which was diurnal in nature and frequented open lands is not being seen anymore in wild abundance as before. This could be due to poaching as has happened elsewhere. Nilgai or Blue Bulls are most abundant as they are not killed.

The buffer zone supports varied small mammals most of which are nocturnal. On a night safari, one can see civet cats, jungle cats, porcupines, ratel, and reptiles. The leopard inhabits the buffer zone on regular basis as the pressure from the tigers pushes them towards the outer areas. This animal is at ease with the ways of the humans and frequents human habitation boldly at times relying on livestock, stray dogs, and even poultry.

Bird life in the buffers is amazing and as much in number as in the core zones. Some niche habitat birds like the Malabar pied Hornbill and the Shama may not be seen in the buffer with ease. On a birding trip, one can nevertheless spot a large number of bird species including migrants in the winter.

Though night safaris in the park are not allowed one can move on the common roads at night. Flash and searchlights are not permitted but one can see a lot by the jeep lights. Some hotels in Bandhavgarh & Kanha organize night safaris. They follow the guidelines for ethical night safaris which do not disturb wildlife. Such safaris are only for tourists using the hotel accommodation.

It is safe to go on a night safari keeping strictly to the jeep and not alighting from it. One cannot venture into the park confines and hence has to keep to the common roads. An early night safari starting in the evening and ending by dinner time is better. Although human traffic is high at day time it eases as evening draws on. The shy animals then emerge from their retreat and can be spotted.

There are some parks in India where night safaris are conducted in an organized manner. for the tourists. This is a very good way to observe nocturnal animals in their natural habitat. It could also perhaps reduce pressure in the park by curbing tiger safari rides.

Tiger Conservation & China

In spite of the early success of Project Tiger and other conservation measures, the status of the tiger in India is at extreme peril. The subsequent reduction in the number of tigers gained due to Project Tiger perplexed wildlife managers and NGOs in the country.

Thanks to the efforts of WPSI headed by Belinda Wright and other participants and others, it soon downed upon us where the tigers were heading.

For ages, the traditional Chinese medicine system depended heavily on tiger parts to make medicines and aphrodisiacs (sic!) that supposedly cured people of various diseases. Unfortunately, this trend continues in the present scenario creating a mess of tiger conservation in India.

The majority of the tiger poaching incidence in our reserves is due to the demand for tiger parts in China and some other Asian countries. But this does not absolve us of the onus of protecting our own natural wealth and wildlife.

There has been some legislation set up in China for the protection of the species. Our Hon. Minister Jairam Ramesh on a visit to Tadoba recently pointed out and stressed China to do more. More needs to be done as tigers poached in India are smuggled through Tibet, Nepal, and Burma. It is very difficult to stop the smuggling of tiger parts due to extensive and porous borders.

Another aspect we should look into is protecting the tiger within. The statement of the minister assures us that the Government is serious about protecting tigers. But it would require the assistance of all concerned - the administration and the people. Proactive protection measures and strict punishment for those involved in poaching is the order of the day.

Since the tiger population in China is practically decimated the demand for dead tigers from India is increasing in that country.

Unlike the traditional Chinese system of medicine, the Indian Ayurvedic system has not laid out stress on animal species albeit regulated consumption of certain rare herbs is the need of the hour.

At present, the tiger is secure in a few tiger reserves like Kanha and Bandhavgarh but this is a presumption till taken by surprise. The tiger reserves are the target of the mafia allegedly responsible for engaging small-time local poachers for a paltry sum. The axe has not fallen on tigers alone but on the leopard as well.

It is the year of the tiger in China. I hope the people there stress keeping the species alive and thriving as a mark of respect and desist from consuming medicines made of a dead tiger.

Bison translocation Bandhavgarh Wildlife Refuge

Bison in Bandhavgarh was the only population that survived North of the River Narmada in MP, India. The last remaining populations which I saw in the late seventies numbered around sixty-four animals. The number subsequently went down to about thirty-two animals and then perished in the late nineties.

The bison (Gaur) of Bandhavgarh is the same species as found in Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh, India. The present population at Kanha Tiger Reserve is over 600 animals. The project to translocate a few heads to Bandhavgarh from Kanha or Pench is a good move. The trans location project augurs hope for the animal to survive in another pocket that was home to its erstwhile brethren.

Bison species are by nature local migratory. Being a coarse feeder it moves up the hills in the neighboring forest. In the case of Bandhavgarh, the population was supposed to migrate to Ghunguhti forests nearby. In summer the Gaur herd moved to mainly Raj Behera meadow in Bandhavgarh. This local migration in summer is to get fodder in form of grass and water as the food/water supply diminishes up the hills. This is also a natural way of controlling grazing in one place.

The problem I presume with the trans location of Bison would be that the animals will be penned for some time, this is in contrary to their nature. What would be better than if the trans-located herd desires to express movement, it should be allowed to do so under supervision? The animals should be constantly tracked and monitored. The imperative would be the inoculation of disease among livestock in the surroundings. This is the primary reason why Bison did not survive in the park. The animals are susceptible to rinderpest, foot and mouth disease mainly, and the carriers are the livestock.

It would interesting to see if animals migrate accurately in unknown habitats. Does their instinct build up over thousands of years direct them to a safe secure place with food and water supply?

How would the trans-located wild animal population fare in a suitable but unknown ecosystem?

Another important intervention initially would be the protection of fawns by tigers. At Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve the tiger density in the forest zones is very high. Threat to the fawns would be substantial in this park. Large tigers also prey on adult bison successfully. Like the Swamp Deer project at Kanha, fawn predation control would be of great help in this endeavor.

But protection from disease, and enabling local migration would be impertinent if the Bison project has to succeed.

For how long will we be able to resort to human intervention - can't we learn to protect wildlife better in order to avoid such contingencies?

Exciting Birds of Kanha

Kanha National Park earlier known as Kanha Kisli is home to the endangered tiger and hard-ground swamp deer. But the tiger overshadows Kanha's popularity over its other famed aspects.

Birding at Kanha Tiger Preserve is a highly interesting activity. The bird watching at Kanha is popular among birders who come on tiger safaris in the park. Now many tour operators are planning full-fledged birding tours.

Kanha is a habitat for approximately two hundred and fifty bird species the checklist includes winter visitors. At Kanha wildlife refuge the forest birds are best seen. Since there are no large water bodies, wetland bird watching is not as exciting as Bharatpur in Rajasthan.

Forest birding is a very exciting but arduous task. Long hours of waiting, highly focused vision for spotting birds in the canopy, and good knowledge of bird calls is a prerequisites. This is for both - bird guides and birders. Not forgetting high-class pair of binoculars and spotting scope and good bird books.

The most exciting finds (though not rare) are Malabar pied hornbill, Shama, Indian scimitar babbler, and Paradise flycatchers. Racket-tailed drongo, Spangled Drongo also take the cake. It requires trained eyes and skills to locate these birds since they are mostly hiding in thick foliage. Malabar pied hornbill prefers higher canopy of the tree while the Shama keeps to bushes and low grounds often. Shama is rated as the best songbird by Salim Ali. These birds are seen in intact ecosystems of the park, and with difficulty outside in the buffer zone.

The common birds are parakeets, orioles, drongos, babblers, bush chats, Indian robins, tree pie, spotted owlet, barred jungle, owlet, orange-headed thrush, common grey hornbill, and mynas. These birds can easily be seen in and around hotels of Kanha in neighboring forests and gardens. Catch hold of the hotel naturalist to assist you.

Among good finds are chloropsis - blue cheeked and gold mantled. Ultramarine flycatchers and wintering warblers are exciting to see the former with difficulty. Iora, Brown cheeked fulvetta, crimson-breasted barbet, grey-headed barbet, grey francolin, painted francolin, rain quail, night jars, red spurfowl, Indian scimitar babbler, and Shama are more often heard than seen. Some of the birds call consistently in the wildlife preserve. If you develop a good ear for bird calls your birding will succeed fourfold.

Large owls and raptors are often seen at the wildlife refuge. Brown Hawk Owl can be seen around trees neighboring marshes with luck. Mottled wood owl is often heard at the night, while collared scops owl can be seen often in pairs near the Pakur tree at the Kisli Gate. Among raptors, honey buzzards, pariah kites, and white-eyed buzzards along with shikra are often seen. Crested serpent eagle and crested hawk eagle though not rare are exciting to spot. The serpent eagle is a persistent caller in the meadows. One can see Ospreys at the water body before the Kisli Gate in winter. Vultures seen are white-backed now rare, King vultures, and often Egyptian vultures on the top of the trees.

Water birds can be seen around Sravan Taal, Bishenpura water body, and Saundher lake. in winter Northern pintail and common teals arrive in respectable numbers. Lesser whistling teals, Nakta, white-necked storks, painted storks, and lesser adjutant storks are resident wetland birds.

The list of birds at Kanha is endless. Bird watching is exciting at this park only if you are not involved in a frantic tiger chase. For any tourist, an effort should be made to appreciate a more holistic picture of the preserve rather than run after tigers or leopards. The best time for a bird tour is in winter whence the numbers are augmented by migrants.

Night Safaris at Kanha Tiger Reserve

In early periods night safaris were not regulated in Kanha National Park. But as a right measure, this was discouraged in toto. It is not a good idea to conduct night safaris in the core zones of any National Park taking into account the disturbance caused and the onus of day safaris which are organized in the morning and evening.

I have always encouraged night safaris among my visitors and have conducted some in the buffer zone...mainly on highways passing through. My preferred route is the road that leads right up to the Kanha NP park boundary from Van Vilas Jungle Resort at Mochha onwards. The night safari route which I prefer is the Mukki Highway and Mocha to Mukki road. The last two are public routes so there is no problem although you may have to notify forest guards or posts on the way. For the first route, it is advisable to contact the first post you come across.

Night safaris are exciting and offer the best chance of sighting less-seen nocturnal animals such as the leopard, porcupine, ratel, Indian fox, civet cats, barking deer, the rare wolf, and more. You can hear night jars and owls and see them under the light. A powerful torch should be very useful albeit care should be taken not to throw light on big cats and bison if you come across them. For large animals, searchlights are not essential as the headlights work fine.

Night safaris are the best way to experience the heart-throbbing delights of tranquil jungle life and its pristine ambiance. Night safaris are being conducted in Rajasthan and as per TOI news, they will be conducted in major NPs and Wildlife Sanctuaries in Karnataka.

Advantages

If properly organized and in the right places, Night safaris at Kanha Tiger Reserve will make tourism more fruitful. Perhaps it will reduce the traffic of day safaris in the core zone.

Night safaris may discourage illegal activities since the roving eyes of the tourists will hinder the movements of poachers and timber smugglers.

It will yield more employment to the locals and add a business to the hotels, jeep owners, and guides. This would be the best way to provide jobs to local guides who often sit jobless due to less tourism inside the core zone.

It will increase awareness amongst the tourists as their scope of understanding this fragile ecosystem will increase.

Caution

The movement for night safaris has to be strictly restricted to nonsensitive areas...away from core zone and breeding zones.

The tourist has to comply with decent behavior, perhaps supervised by the guide as he does so in the day safaris.

The night safaris should be conducted in the same manner as the day safari by the administration...and charged.

The safety of the tourist has to be taken into account.

The timings should be restricted up to 11pm.