Wildlife of Satpura National Park

Part of Central Indian Highlands so aptly described by James Forsyth in 18th Century Satpura National Park is a wildlife haven. At present, it is a stretch of forest that comprises 3000 sq. km and encompasses Pacharhi Hill Resort. The park lies in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh. Dhoopgarh is the highest point in Madhya Pradesh which is in Pachmarhi National Park.  It is 1352 meters in elevation. 

Satpura National Park is also a tiger reserve and is governed by the State Forest Department of Madhya Pradesh. The core area comprises 528 sq. km and along with Bori and Pachmarhi it forms a biosphere reserve. The name is derived from the Satpura Range which flanks South Eastern Park of Madhya Pradesh. On the North in Vindhya Range and both converge at Maikal Hills in the Amarkantak Hill Resort.    

Wildlife of Satpura    

The megafauna includes tiger, leopard, sambar deer, axis deer, barking deer, bison, wild boar, Nilgai, four-horned antelope, fox, jackal, giant squirrel, rusty jungle cat, chinkara, hyena, langur, rhesus macaque, and the sloth bear. Among the small mammals are the pangolin, Indian giant squirrel, three palm squirrels, porcupines, and civet cats.  The diversity of the park ai amazing. 

Birds of Satpura 

There are more than 254 species of birds found at Satpura that include winter migrants. Some of the noted species are verditor flycatcher, shama, Malabar hornbill, racket-tailed drongo, orange-headed ground thrush, honey buzzard, crested hawk eagle, serpent eagle,  paradise flycatcher, Malabar whistling thrush, black-naped flycatcher, jungle prinia, stonechat, spotted owlet, jungle owlet, grey jungle fowl, bar-headed geese, savanna nightjar, grey-headed fish eagle, grey hornbill, Indian skimmer, grey nightjar, Indian nightjar, pariah kite, white backed munia, red avadavat, gold fronted leaf bird, Jerdon's leaf bird,  yellow wattled lapwing, red wattled lapwing, river lapwing, Eurasian wryneck, tawny eagle, steppe eagle, shikra and sparrow hawk. 

Flora of Satpura  

The tiger reserve has more than 62 species of trees, shrubs, and herbs. It has many grasslands that add to the biodiversity. Some of the species are Lynda, Sal, teak, dhain, harra, bahera, aonla, and more.  

Tourism at Satpura 

The park is divided among tourism zones that comprise 20% of the core. Tourism is conducted in both core zones and buffer zones. To make an excursion in the park you have to book a safari at Satpura at MPOnline. You can also book a safari at the gates if they are available. Hence you should book the safari in Advance.

Satpura is at a distance of 260 km from Jabalpur Airport and 190 km from Bhopal Airport. It is accessible from Pipariya Station on the Bombay Howarh line. It is well connected by road.    

Tiger Safari In Hot Summer of May and June

Heat Rises in Mid-March and last till 15 June is monsoon is in time. The temperature rises to 42 degrees in shade and 45 degrees in direct sunlight. Otherwise, it gets delayed by mid-July. Mid-July Monsoon pours in. This is a nig relief and most of the herbivores breed in this season when there is plenty of grass to feed and produce milk. Most herbivores breed during monsoon when torrents of rain give new roots to shoots and green grass.

Torturous Months

By March water in rivers, ponds, and lakes start receding but there is still water left for wild animals to drink. As summer precedes some water bodies completely dry out while water is left. As water recedes further some water bodies are completely dry. Animals are dependent upon a few streams and trickles. Some man-made water bodies sustain water. Animals congregate in these spots and the predators follow them for easy kill. 

This has been seen at Ranthambore where tigers have learned to kill in water. They hide behind the bushes and make a rush at the sambar deer kill. After many a chase, they managed to kill. This was begun by Machli the famous tiger who mastered the art. She became the heroine of the park and many photographers and filmmakers began to make a beeline to capture these events. After Machli many tigers began to copy this hunting technique. This is a unique event and has become regular.

At Kanha, sentinels fill the saucer with water in saucers made of cement. Tigers, leopards, langurs, small animals, and deer come to these saucers to quench their thirst. Thankfully Kanha is not as dry and places of water remain even in summer. But congregation does take place giving a chance to make an easy kill. Pench and Tadoba are drier and water has to be arranged for.

If you are a wildlife photographer this is the best time for photo tours if you can stand the heat. Animals congregate and offer the best time to make films. Remember to keep light khaki and stay in the AC room. Wildlife photographers can afford that.      

Tiger Photography in India

With more than 3000 tigers in India and a good network of tiger reserves, the country is proving one of the best places to photograph big cats. In India wildlife photographers and filmmakers have a greater choice to film and photograph the big cats. With over 52 tiger reserves they can accomplish their mission with ease. 

Photography For Amateurs

For amateur filmmakers and photographers, a safari permit is enough. They can book safaris for morning and evening and shoot tigers as they chance upon. Many parks offer the facility of a full-day safari which though costly can bear rich fruits. In full-day safaris zone restrictions are not there and they can go anywhere. But all regular safari rules have to be followed. Besides the absence of zone restriction food has to be consumed at the interpretation centers or at places that are designated by park authorities. Even night safaris are open for the amateurs.

Professional Mission 

But for professionals who need to venture into the park, apart from basic regulations extra permission is required. Professionals need to intrude into the forests, be photographed at night, and often work on foot. These are outside the purview of regular visitors.

Hence for extra facilities permission has to be taken from MOEF and PCCF of the state. Documentaries cannot be made on regular safaris hence privileges are required. These arrangements have to be made through a local wildlife tour operator. The local tour operator makes all the arrangements before the venture commences. 

The professionals need local help and these are experienced guides, helpers, and amateur photographers. They know the terrain well and have a fair idea of the movement of tigers. They can assist in many other ways. This team is organized by the local or National tour operator as well. In India getting special permissions is time-consuming and costly.  Hence tour operators' assistance is indispensable.    

Professional filmmakers and photographers need to carry heavy and costly equipment and this has to be transported through customs and local transportation this could be time-consuming and costly. Nevertheless, the end result is rewarding. Thus all arrangements have to be made in advance for a tiger photo tour in India.

Sighting Wild Elephants in India

Wild elephants or Indian Wild Elephants are spread in many states of India. But, they are found mostly in North East, North West, East, and Southern India.  Badly persecuted for their tusks considered an aphrodisiac, and for ivory-based artifacts, their number had gone precariously low. The tusks were also considered as a money transfer from India to other countries where they could be sold to obtain cash.

Once widespread all over the forests of the country their population has reduced, and it stands a little over 30,000. Thanks, to the Project Elephant Program and the ban on hunting the population of the pachyderm, is increasing and they are being sighted in their previous habitats. For example, there have been sightings of herds in Bandhavgarh, Kanha, and neighboring forests. These animals were never heard of in these areas.

Project Elephant   

Launched in the year 1992 by the Ministry of Environment and Forests (MOEF) to provide financial and wildlife management support the program is doing well.

• It was launched as Central Government Scheme;
• Centrally Sponsored Scheme with following objective
• To protect elephants, their habitat, and corridors.
• To address issues of man-animal conflict.
• The welfare of captive elephants
• to promote not to harm elephants for their tusks.           

More elephant conservation initiatives are being carried out to protect the species in India.

Indian Vs African Elephant

Indian or Asiatic Elephant differs morphologically from African Elephant. The former prefers dense forests while the latter prefers savannah grasslands. Most of the biological features and social life is nearly similar.        

Distribution of elephants in India.

The population in the country stands between 27,785–31,368.

They are found in the Northwest Uttarakhand and Uttar Pradesh.

They are found in the Northeast – from the border of Nepal in Northern West Bengal, West Assam plains extending into eastern Arunachal Pradesh, the foothills of Nagaland, and Meghalaya. Small herds occur in Tripura, Mizoram, and Manipur

They are found In the central part – in Odisha, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, and Chhattisgarh. The entry into Madhya Pradesh and Chattisgarh has been recent.

in the South, they are found in   Karnataka, Kerala Andhra Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu.

Elephant Tourism

Though nothing compared with tiger tourism in the country elephant tourism is not uncommon. Tourists on tiger safari often seek wild elephants at Corbett National Park and Periyar Tiger Reserve. Other places where the pachyderms are seen in the wild are:

• Singhbhum Elephant Reserve
• Mayurbhanj Elephant Reserve
• Garo Hills Elephant Reserve
• Anamudi Elephant Reserve
• Chirang-Ripu
• Mahanadi
• Thekkapakadu
• Punnatthurkotta, Guruvayoor
• Dubare

Most of these destinations are elephant reserves while many are camps that display the wild pachyderms. Although not as popular as tiger reserve still a large number of these giants can be seen in the country. Post January elephant sighting at Corbett increases. This attracts a lot of tourists to the reserve. Elephants descend to the foothills as vegetation becomes scarce and winter is at its peak. 

Satpura National Park James Forsyth Adventures

James Forsyth first pitched his tent in the dense canopy at Satpura National Park. If you visit Pachmarhi you are sure to visit the cottage that has been turned into a museum commemorative the huntsman and naturalist. The unimaginably rugged and torturous landscape was inhabited by various tribes. Forsyth perhaps was the first outsider to venture into the deep confines.

His foray into the Central Indian Highlands was not only to survey the terrain, he keenly studied the local communities their customs, and more while stationed in these dense forests. Unfortunately, his observations benefitted the outside world but he shot down many wild creatures.

As you read the book you realize that the author was not an accomplished writer, but nevertheless, his accounts are fascinating. His interpretation of what he experienced while staying at Satpuras has been scripted in a romantic manner but his reference to tribal and local communities is much wanting. His rating of locals is at best low and he does not hesitate to mention them as unintelligent people trapped in obscurantism.

James Forsyth was an allrounder. Besides being an adventurer he knew geography, natural history, and wildlife. His accounts of what he experienced have been aptly recorded in his book "Highlands of Central India."  Get hold of the book if you can to dig into past communities and wilderness.

Satpura Tiger Reserve

Satpura National Park and tiger reserve is the core of the Satpura Range and encompasses Bori Sanctuary and Pachmari Hill Resort. Together they for the Satpura Biosphere Reserve comprising around 3000 sq. Km.  Satpura range is the core area while Bori and Pachmarhi are buffer zones. The reserve is home to 52 species of mammals, 300 species of birds, and 31 species of reptiles. The targetted species are Malabar Whistling Thrush, Orange-headed ground thrush, racket-tailed drongo, and hornbills.

The floral element comprises Sal, teak, dhawa, kosum, bel, aonla, bamboo, mahua, and many more.

The park comprises:

1339.26 sq. Km core

794.04 sq. KN buffer

2133.40 TOTAL area.

Tourism takes place from Madai a small township near Hosgabad. To reach the core tourists have to take a motorboat ride over the River Denwa this is a short ride lasting a few minutes. The safari begins after crossing the river.

Like all reserves in MP, a tiger safari permit is required. You can book a safari permit for Satpura Tiger Reserve online or at the gate. During the rush time, permits are not available at the gate hence it is wiser to book online. a permit is required. You can book a safari permit for Satpura Tiger Reserve online or at the gate. During the rush time, permits are not available at the gate hence it is wiser to book online.    

 

Safari at Panna Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh

The only broad-leaf forest situated in North Western Madhya Pradesh is a veritable paradise on earth. Bottomless ravines, grasslands, and dense teak forests define this tiger landscape. After the complete extinction of tigers and poachers perhaps in connivance with forest guard the population of big cats was completely wiped out.

Amazing conservative initiatives there are now more than 28 tigers in the park. The safari has begun and the big cat sightings are good. The terrain is now recovered and wild animals too have made a comeback with improvement in the ecosystem. 

Panna is home to tigers, leopards, sloth bears, Nilgai, wolf, hyena, and many other animals. It is rich in birdlife including the Himalayan vultures, white-backed vultures, Egyptian vultures, long-billed vultures, and the Monk Vulture. Among other bird species, the tiger reserve is home to Shama, verditor flycatcher, orange-headed ground thrush, grey hornbill, Oriental pied hornbill, black-naped monarch, and more.

Panna National Park

Ensconced in Vindiyan Hill Range it becomes contiguous with the Satpura Range at Mailkal Hills. Kanha and Achanakmar also meet here. The area of the park is 542.67 sq. Km. Along with Ken River Sanctuary forms a catchment area for the Ken River which is the park's lifeline. The river system is home to marsh crocodiles and the gharial besides many other aquatic forms of life. 

The National Park and surrounding forest are the only remaining chunks of broad-leaf forests in North Western Madhya Pradesh. These are the only forests home to wild animals rest of the area is barren.

The destination was declared a tiger reserve in 1994/5. Most of all rather all the big cats have been translocated which has been a great success.

Safari at Panna National Park

Tourism is organized twice a day one at the start of the dawn and the other in the evening at dusk. The park is divided into tourism zones in twenty percent of the core area of the park. To avail of game rides one needs a permit. This permit fortiger safari permit at Panna is obtained at MPOnline an MP Government Portal. You can also avail permit at the gate if available. My advice is to book online as there is a rush and you may be left out.

Panna is only 26 km from Khajuraho Airpot and that is the best way to reach the National Park from New Delhi.     

Tiger Safari Holiday at Kanha

Tiger Safari Holiday at Kanha National Park.

Kanha is situated at Maikal Hills and the system is nurtured by tributaries of the Narmada River. The river originates from Amarkantak Resort at Maikal Hill and flows over 700 km to merge into the estuary of Baruch in Gujarat. Interestingly Makal Hills are a confluence of Vindhyan Hill north of MP and Satpura Hills south of Madhya Pradesh. Jabalpur is the the Center of India lying east towards Kanha National Park.

Maikal Hills are a part of Achanakmar Biosphere Reserve which comprise Amarkantak Forests and Achanakmar Tiger Reserve. Kanha is not part of the biosphere reserve but is contiguous with the origin of Maikal Hills and Achanakmar once forming a corridor for wild animals to translocate. Thus a large ecosystem was in place and formed a habitat for all life forms.  On the western side, the forests were connected with what are now Bandhavgarh, Sanjay Dubri, and Panna.

Some of the regions have been mentioned by James Forsyth in his book Central Indian Wildlife. This has become a sad story now since the contiguity is intruded on by human settlements, agriculture, and livestock. Among the isolated pockets, three popular ones are

• Kanha National Park
• Bandhavgarh National Park
• Panna National Park

These are situated in Madhya Pradesh while another reserve the birthplace of white tiger Sanjay Dubri has yet to face the limelight. It too is situated in Madhya Pradesh barely an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh.  

Kanha National Park

Most popular among all the National Parks is Kanha which is also a tiger reserve. It is home to more than 100 tigers, but the fame has come about due to saving the hard ground barasingha or swamp deer. It was a remarkable conservation initiative and made the park popular all over the World. From 66 heads the population now stands at over 600. To save the gene pool some animals have been translocated to other destinations.

The biodiversity is rich and improved after it turned into a conservation unit. All Central Indian mammals and reptiles are found here while more than 250 bird species can be checklisted.

Tourism at Kanha National Park

Twenty percent of the inviolate core is reserved for regulated tourism while the outer area or buffer is also open to tourism. Being the best place to see the tiger and other animals tourists throng in large numbers every year. But the entry is limited hence safaris or game rides should be booked in advance. Those planning a tiger safari holiday should thus book a tiger safari in advance. The safaris should be booked through MPOnline Portal belonging to Madhya Pradesh Government.

There are a large number of wildlife resorts outside the park that organize tiger safaris, rest and recreation. They range from budget to upscale properties.  

Kanha is best accessible from Jabalpur Airport in MP. It is well connected with the capital and all major towns. From the airport, the drive is three and a half hours only. Kanha Tiger Reserve is well connected by a road network. It is well connected by a rail network as well. The park is closed from 1st July and opens on 1st October.            

Tiger Safari In Hot Summer of May and June

Heat Rises in Mid-March and last till 15 June is monsoon is in time. The temperature rises to 42 degrees in shade and 45 degrees in direct sunlight. Otherwise, it gets delayed by mid-July. Mid-July Monsoon pours in. This is a nig relief and most of the herbivores breed in this season when there is plenty of grass to feed and produce milk. Most herbivores breed during monsoon when torrents of rain give new roots to shoots and green grass.

Torturous Months

By March water in rivers, ponds, and lakes start receding but there is still water left for wild animals to drink. As summer precedes some water bodies completely dry out while water is left. As water recedes further some water bodies are completely dry. Animals are dependent upon a few streams and trickles. Some man-made water bodies sustain water. Animals congregate in these spots and the predators follow them for easy kill. 

This has been seen at Ranthambore where tigers have learned to kill in water. They hide behind the bushes and make a rush at the sambar deer kill. After many a chase, they managed to kill. This was begun by Machli the famous tiger who mastered the art. She became the heroine of the park and many photographers and filmmakers began to make a beeline to capture these events. After Machli many tigers began to copy this hunting technique. This is a unique event and has become regular.

At Kanha, sentinels fill the saucer with water in a saucer made of cement. Tigers, leopards, langurs, small animals, and deer come to these saucers to quench their thirst. Thankfully Kanha is not as dry and places of water remain even in summer. But congregation does take place giving a chance to make an easy kill. Pench and Tadoba are drier and water has to be arranged for.

If you are a wildlife photographer this is the best time for photo tours if you can stand the heat. Animals congregate and offer the best time to make films. This is the best time for a tiger safari in India if you can bear the heat.

Remember to keep light khaki and stay in the AC room. Wildlife photographers can afford that.