With a population of 526 Bengal tigers, Madhya Pradesh has wrestled the title from Karnataka which was leading in numbers since the last census in the year 2010. In that year, Karnataka registered a population of 408 big cats. But the last census conducted in the year 2018 showed more big cats than ever in Madhya Pradesh. Although the number is minuscule whence compared with their population before the hunting began a few centuries back.
Bengal Tiger
Central Indian Tiger Landscape
Central India for centuries has been a heavily forested State with more than 40% of the area under forest cover. It was connected by extensive corridors with tiger landscapes in the North and the East and down below right up to the tiger landscape of Southern India. The fluid passages acted as a safe conduit for the migration of big cats and their prey.
The state encompasses Vindhya Range in the North West, and the Satpura Hill Range forming a ridge below. Both ranges converge at Maikal Hills in the Amarkantak Achanakmar Biosphere Reserve. The region known as the Highlands of Central India comprises inaccessible terrain that encompasses Steep cliffs and tabletop mountains scattered all over the region. This terrain is now home to Central India's tiger reserves namely:
Although these reserves are fragmented with non-existing weak corridors they hold a substantial population of big cats, and the numbers are rising. Tigers need inviolate areas to breed and hunt they are sensitive to human intrusion and agrarian practices that clear forests. The predator is an ambush hunter and cannot chase its prey like the cheetah or the lion. The animal cannot survive in the absence of a dense crown cover intermingled with bush country and tall grasses. It needs a good prey base and water supply from waterholes, rivers, lakes, etc.
Madhya Pradesh is endowed with characteristics that tiger habitats should have hence the state is home to amazing tiger landscapes that can help breed and sustain large populations. The next best step would be the formation of corridors but that is a distant dream.
Thus the high-level saturation of the tiger population is due to habitat formations that best suit the predator. There still exists some large contiguous areas that are connected by corridors still allow migration of the predators and the prey. Inaccessible terrain, dense crown cover, and plenty of prey base. Thus populations are flourishing wherever proper protection is provided to them.
The ban on hunting by the Wildlife Protection Act 1972 and the formation of protected areas under the Project Tiger Program were highly successful all over India. This prevented hunting and poaching and provided them with inviolate areas where they could breed in peace.
A large sum of money is being pumped up into conservation. Fortunately, it is being generated from tiger tourism in the reserves. Tourists, holidaymakers, filmmakers, and photographers are regular visitors to these parks. Although the target species is the tiger they are also attracted by animals like the swamp deer, sloth bear, wild elephants, leopard, wolves, wild dogs, and even small predators and deer.
Birding is also attracting a large number of visitors since these parks are home to more than two hundred avian species. Bird watching, and nature trails, are organized by luxury hotels using the services of a naturalist. The tiger reserves of Central India comprise excellent tourism infrastructure including the approach roads.
Jabalpur Airport and Railhead in MP is the fulcrum from where you can easily approach these destinations. You can also approach some reserves from Nagpur Airport and Khajuraho Airport. Remember the park is closed during the monsoon due to slush formation on the roads.
For excursions in the parks your need a safari permit for each ride. Book permits in advance since the jeep entry is limited. You can book a safari through the tour operator or at MPOnline.
Bandhavgarh National Park in
Central India is a conservation unit chiefly focused on saving the critically
endangered Bengal tiger. At Bandhavgarh tiger, tourism plays a major role in
revenue generation. NTCA a government body sets guidelines for recreation in
the park. The safaris are regulated and subject to terms and conditions shaped
by several rules. The park is also a tiger reserve, and the conservation
initiative is set by the forest department.
The regulations are under the
advice of the Supreme Court of India and are subject to be implemented for
tiger safaris. NTCA or National Tiger Conservation Authority is the guardian of
the Project Tiger Program initiated by the Government of India.
The park is divided into the core
or critical tiger habitat which is inviolate and no human settlement or any
activities are allowed and the outer ring or buffer comprises villages,
forests, and farmlands. Twenty percent of the core is subjected to tourism as
demarcated by the local forest department. This area is subdivided into three
zones and to visit each zone a safari permit issued by MP State Government is
required. The permit is issued by the State Government of Madhya Pradesh. The
open jeep safaris seat six people with a guide on a ride inside the core. Two
game rides are conducted daily, one in the morning and the other in the
evening.
How to Book Bandhavgarh Safari Permit?
The permits can be secured from
the MPOnline website of the State
Government. You have to decide which
zone to visit in the morning or evening safari rides. Do this much in advance, if you cannot decide
then take advice from the hotel naturalist you are going to stay at in
Bandhavgarh or seek advice from the manager of your tour operator in India.
To book a safari go online at the
MPOnline website, here you need to fill out the form which requires you to
submit personal details including those accompanying you on the jeep safari. A
photo ID could be a passport or a driving license. You can choose the date,
time, and zone and then make the payment if the slot is available. Make a
payment online using a credit/debit card or Internet Banking. After the
reservation has been completed take a printout of the permit. If you don't wish
to take the trouble of online reservations then get your permits through the
agent.
During the game rides, you have
to carry a copy of the permit and your original passport or photo ID. All
co-passengers will need to do the same. On the ride, you are allowed to carry a
camera or a Handycam/binoculars but no guns or inflammable articles.
When on the safari the jeep keeps
to the selected zone and cannot crossover into another zone. The canteen with
toilet facilities is in a designated area meant for freshening up and brunch
during the morning ride.
Remember, always reserve safari permits in advance as entry into the tourism zone is limited. At Bandhavgarh National Park the maximum
number of jeeps allowed in one zone is twenty-five as the park is smaller
compared with many other National parks in Central India.
Being one of the most popular tiger reserves in India, Bandhavgarh excels in wildlife tourism infrastructure. As a National Park and reserve, the focus is on tiger conservation, and the consequent efforts have led to an amazing comeback made by the critically endangered big cat species.
I remember, in the seventies, on my first visit there were no private accommodations, and the only proper place to stay was the Forest Rest House at Tala Village. Tigers though scarce were visible after much tracking. Tourism was focused on Tala Range comprising dense forests, mountain River Charanga, marshy grasslands, and plenty of prey for the big cats. Another unique aspect of the Tala Range was ancient remains dating 2000 years back. On your first safari, you will not fail to notice the crumbling ramparts of an ancient fort at the great heights of Bandhavgarh Fort. A portion of the wall is intact but access to the fort is not possible anymore as it is out of the tourism zone.
Bandhavgarh National Park
Bandhavgarh is an esoteric paradise that epitomizes ancient mystical India. Well protected from the Mughal marauders, the park is home to many manmade caves, stables, courts, idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms, and pools. Now covered in moss, lichens, and fungi, the structures nevertheless, strike awe and hold you transfixed in a perpetual state of trance. I remember, Shesh Shaiyya still comes in my dreams, the Lord lying peacefully near a fairy pool. The place is open for tourism in Tala Zone and is a must-visit.
Bandhavgarh
Tigers of Bandhavgarh
"BADDY OR DADDY" if my memory serves well was already popular with a few tourists who entered the park on old rickety diesel jeeps in the seventies. He found a mention in a popular Indian newspaper and sired many cubs. Most of the tigers we encountered during that period had no names but were as charismatic as they appeared with names later on.
From being an unknown entity the park was slowly emerging from being totally inconspicuous on the tourism map, it was slated to be the most visited in Central India. As the population increased, tigers began rolling in, and the legendary tigress SITA was the result of the conservation initiative. As far as I remember Badka, Charger, Bamera, B1, B2, Mahaman tigress, Blueeyed, and many others highlighted tourism in the park.
Tiger's Den Resort
We often visited the park as tourism was cheap, and the forest resthouse was readily available. But things were changing as resorts began to pop up in the nineties. Tiger tourism was coming of age in India! Unfortunately, tourism took its toll and the sentinels and mahouts who sat around us to cheer up the fireplace in the evenings began to evade us as the tips came rolling in. Overseas visitors began to arrive in hordes, and the mahouts and the guides were amply rewarded.
Hotels in Bandhavgarh
From a single public accommodation, the place was expected to grow as tiger sightings increased. In the tiger reserves, tourism is always interdependent upon the possibility of sightings of the big cat, and to some extent connectivity by air, road, and rail. The destination was difficult to approach from Jabalpur and elsewhere because of bad road conditions, and the 200 km drive from Jabalpur Airport was a pain in the bums.
The roads are in excellent shape now and a large number of hotels have profligated the buffer zone of the park. Bandhavgarh provides ample opportunities to stay as per the budget. From single-room house accommodations to guest houses, and homestays you can choose sophisticated high-end resorts during the safari holidays.
With the tourist boom, the number of hotels has boomeranged as well and new ones keep coming. You have a choice if you wish to spend money to stay in high-end star-category accommodations. These are expensive but deliver or you can choose semi-luxury resorts that charge around 100 USD per night stay.
There are many fancy accommodations that specialize in hosting overseas visitors and the quality of services is good. These properties are experienced in hosting overseas visitors and are preferred by inbound tour operators. Luxury hosts what to expect:
Excellent Food
Fine Dining
Spacious Rooms or Cottages
Native Architecture
Cozy Ambience
Serenity & Peace
Green Environment
Pool
Parking
Naturalist Service
Jungle Safari Trips
Safari Booking
Bar (Few)
Sauna (Few)
Barbecue (Few)
Bush Dinners
Bird Watching
Village Visits
Continental Food
Wait Service, & Host Interaction
Every luxury property has a unique way of dealing with its hosts. There is one Tal Property at Bandhavgarh called Mahua Kothi which is a five-star getaway, and available for a high-end budget. But generally, those preferred by the tour operators tend to come up to the expectations. There is a lot of information on the hotel websites of Bandhavgarh. You can authenticate by contacting the resort manager or a local tour operator or rely on referrals if you have any. A better option is to seek reviews on Tripadvisor. Many mid-range resorts are on the verge of closure or barely surviving post-covid-19 hence be careful.
Some of the Good properties in Bandhavgarh as per TripAdvisor are:
Tiger Den Resorts
MPTDC White Tiger Lodge
Nature Heritage Resort
Lemon Tree Resort
Samode Safari Lodge
Tree House Hideaway
Bundela Tiger Resorts
Infinity Resort
My stay at Tiger Den Resort has been most rewarding. It is a mid-price resort at Tala and takes good care of overseas guests and the domestic crowd. But you can choose from the list of luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh National Park. Make a wise decision, and your wild safari holiday would be a memorable experience. Most of the accommodations are situated around the Tala Village which is the main artery that connects the park with Jabalpur Airport. But the properties are spread out at a distance, especially the high-end ones. Take your time choosing the right property and settle for the best price. Avoid the festival rush and weekends.
Remember to book safari permits in advance, before the limited entry is full. For online booking use MPOnline Portal. You can also request the hotel manager where you plan to stay to book safari permits for you.
