Bandhavgarh Then & Now

I saw my first male tiger in Bandhavgarh National Park in the seventies. The place was called Kill Khunta, since bait was usually tied there to attract tigers. The baiting practice was thankfully stopped but the tigers do not go hungry at all. In that dusky twilight, I could see one of nature's marvelous creations. The awe and admiration have never ceased since.

Back from the brink of disaster, the little paradise was not throbbing with tigers as conservation practice had just been put in place. The aftermath of reckless hunting had come to a stop and recovery was on the way. Though isolated and fragmented, the reserve retained its glorious ancient past and amazing Sal forests.

There were few visitors, and the accommodation was limited to the Maharani's Kothi for the privileged and the Forest/PWD R.H - rest house.

Eventually, MPTDC stepped in and established the White Tiger Lodge. Then more tourists started to arrive with propaganda so created. The tourism infrastructure had been put in place with a number of elephants for rides. The jungle roads were being maintained. This was the hunting reserve of the erstwhile Maharajas of Rewa. It was the largest Kingdom in India during the post-independence period.

The discovery of white tigers in the adjacent forests had already opened the floodgates of popularity. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve is situated in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. It is one of the finest places to see the tiger in the wild. The preserve is one of the most picturesque destinations - a little tiger haven tucked away in the deep recess of India's wild heartland. Under the project tiger, the area covered is about 1100 sq. km including the neighboring Pan Patha Wildlife Sanctuary. The core now constitutes 600 plus sq. km as against 145 or so earlier.

On our earlier visits, we could count around 60 plus heads of gaur or Indian Bison. Gradually we saw the numbers dwindle till the end came somewhere in the nineties. This was a major blow to the habitat, the loss of a coarse grazer was irreparable. Rinderpest & FPL was the scourge carried by maddening numbers of livestock in the periphery. Though some gaur has been relocated from Kanha recently, we have to wait for success.

It was obvious from the sightings that the prey base was increasing. The sightings also confirmed that big cats in the park were on the increase. In a few years, the reserve was a conservation success - it still is.

Another noticeable fact was the increasing number of tourists as well as the hotel resorts. The park became the number one tourist draw thanks to a high density of tigers. The core area of the park is the finest habitat for cats. Due to the slush and grass in swampy marshy areas hunting was easy.

The village relocation had taken place from within the core and some were due which eventually did not happen - Kalwa & Magdi. The edaphic grasslands left by the tribal communities inside were overtaken by the prey base. This was like bounty from heaven since the grass was much-wanted fodder for the deer and the bison.

Ruins

The remains of ancient civilizations added luster to the splendorous jungle resort. The ancient man-made caves still exist with petroglyphs and Brahmi script on the walls. The forests experienced many warring civilizations throughout, as history unfolded. The dynasties left their marks on the ruins which are now ruled thankfully by the big cats. The place since evolution belonged to the wild denizens later intruded on by humans.

The ancient ruins add an esoteric touch to the wildlife haven. Sesh Shaiyya on the way to Bandhavgarh Hillock is right out of the fairy tale. Its pristine surroundings and springs are in reality best described as fairy tale settings. The reclining statue of Lord Vishnu beside the pond makes it a place of religious importance for the locals.

On the way up are a number of zoomorphic statues of Lord Visnu some towering. Matsya Avatar - Varah Avatar and so on. The Laxman Temple sits atop the hill facing the beautiful grasslands valleys and neighboring mountains. Picturesque indeed! The Bandhavgarh Hill is steep and about 800m MSL. the hillock are an ideal breeding ground for Long Billed Vulture.

Bandhavgarh Fort at the top lies in ruins arch, a man-made reservoir, statues, and temple remains are littered all over. The remains boast of exquisite and colorful sculptural practice & art of ancient India. They are an archeological find dating back two thousand years in the recess of this old country.

The plateau is extensive and gives one an eerie feeling a spread of ruined civilization, tall grasslands, and a haunting specter of open spaces, mystical and esoteric as of the pristine wild country. The alarm cry or the tiger roar can be unnerving as I have experienced often.

Priest & Tiger

The Old Brahmin Pujari was a legendary figure. He walked about 11 km to the Laxman Temple, under the care of his family, since the Maharajas were ordained. He must have been the most familiar figure for the tigers that walked aside from him. He once told me that his meetings with tigers were often and it was you go your way and I go my way affair, strictly. He died a natural death and I believe his son has taken over.

Hills Glens & Rivers

Mahaman, Chur Bohera, Raj Bohera, Bathan are well-preserved grasslands. Their rivers crisscross Johilla, Charanganga, and Umrar. Must-visit for tiger sightings and landscape are Badi Gufa, Ghoda Damen, 10 No.GUFA and Andheri Jhiriya. The terrain is torturous and at places very steep. The safari is exciting over steep climbs, across grasslands and river beds the cliff tower over you all the time.

Forests

The abundance of SAL is evident but the park encompasses some of the finest bamboo slopes and mixed forests. The canopy is dense but withers as one moves along the periphery due to wood logging in the buffer.

Buffer

Once a large contiguous tract of the forest the park is now isolated. Neighboring forests are Pan Patha, Gunghuti and the Sihora Forest ranges at some distance. the forests leading to Amarkantak and Achanakmar belts have been badly denuded hence there is no migration path for any species. All around the reserve forest are in a bad state and hence tiger habitat has been reduced. There are villages surrounding the buffer and within with a large number of livestock. Except for tourism alternative means of survival have not been explored.

Tiger Safari

Tourism in the tiger reserves of Central India is monitored and well-managed. I have seen tiger tourism grow from infancy and simultaneously the wildlife has increased as well. Tourism has benefited local communities which were until then dependent upon infertile lands. The need for accommodation has brought in many hotels. The established hotels of Bandhavgarh employ a large number of youth. Most of these are from the local communities. Many get employment in the forest department as guides, chara cutters, guards and naturalists, etc. Plus the park is a nature library many tourists come and go with a greater understanding of nature, admiration for other life forms, and a desire to conserve valuable heritage.

The Tiger

It has been one hell of a journey for the beleaguered animal. It has been ignominiously pushed back to small pockets along with associates. We have never ceased to destroy nature, we have overpowered other life forms and taken their land away. The majestic cat is a silent and helpless observer as the axe continues to ravage his kingdoms all over the country.

Grasslands larger than life

The Meadows

Unique feature of the tiger reserves of Central India are the grasslands that lie interspersed between rugged mountains and enchanting valleys. Also known as boheras in Bandhavgarh and maidan in Kanha these are hub of activities in the ecosystem.

The grasslands or meadows are the center of attraction for man animals and birds alike. The tourist flock these meadows in order to see the tiger and the deer. Since the thick canopy obstructs wildlife sighting the tourist jeeps prefer to move around the grasslands in order to see the tigers.

Tigers love the tall grasses of the prairies and sulk in between to ambush prey. They love the cover of the tall grass and the shade. In Bandhavgarh tiger reserve the Boheras are marshy and have proven to be excellent hunting grounds for the tigers. The slush hinders fast movement of the deer and the big cats find it easy to pounce upon them.

In Kanha the meadows besides supporting the tigers are home to critically endangered Swamp Deer. This is the only hard ground Barasingha population left in the wild. The deer now survives in good enough numbers after it was brought back from brink of extinction. The swamp deer subsists only on certain species of grass and poses conservation challenge to park authorities.

The grasses are frequented not only by tigers and deer they are home to many species of birds and reptiles. With luck one can see the reticulated python or other snakes. Most often seen grass birds are plain prinia, jungle prinia, zitting cisticola, warblers, common stonechat, pipits and larks, francolins painted and grey, munias or avadavat, storks and many others.

In order to stalk prey tigers frequent these grassy maidans. Since the concentration of deer is very high hunting is much easier. In the open spaces movement is not hampered like in thick canopy. They are easily camouflaged in the dry grass and can hide easily. Hence spotting tigers in grasslands is not as easy as people presume.

The most popular grasslands in Bandhavgarh are Chur Bohera, Raj bohera, bathan and chakradhara. Similarly the Kanha meadow is most popular, preferred by animals and tourists alike. Others are Saunf meadow where Swamp Deer breed, Kisli meadow and Parsa tola to name a few.

Most of the grasslands are small in area whence compared with Dhikala Chuad in Corbett Tiger Reserve. The height is much less than elephant grass. Most of the grasslands in Central Indian Tiger Reserves in MP are edaphic. They were earlier settlements which have been trans located elsewhere. The vacated fields have been overtaken by local species of grass and secondary scrub.

The savannas are always under threat from fire and over grazing. Thankfully live stock is not allowed inside the core area and the park authorities are constantly guarding the habitats from fires. The predators maintain the right population of deer hence prevent overgrazing. A major challenge being faced by conservation team in Kanha emanates from the lendia tree. This tree is slowly encroaching into the grasslands and reducing them. The swamp deer depend entirely on these ecosystems hence to stop the encroachment or leave nature to take care of things is a difficult decision to be taken.

Besides habitats of many species in these National Parks the savannas are vital to the ecosystem. They constitute major support system to these diverse habitats and have tremendous water retention capacity.

Bandhavgarh Personified

The jungles of India intrigue and fascinate humans. They exude an aura of mystery and mystical charm and unparalleled natural beauty. The animal kingdoms in India for thousands of years have bedazzled humans and attracted them to admire, explore study, and record aspects of nature's masterpiece. Throughout annals of history animals and birds and forests find mentioned by kings, court historians, writers, poets, ascetics, and local communities.
Photos By. Mr.Kamaljeet Hora

Bandhavgarh jungle was once contiguous with Central India Highlands and Vindhyan Ranges. It is now more or less fragmented and isolated, connected perhaps with Kanha and Achanakmar with nonviable badly deforested corridors.

Small and confined, the jungles of Bandhavgarh are the epitome of exceptional beauty and exude an aura of mystique. The spectacular esoteric, fairy tale settings and element of mystery remain. The terrain is unique in steep rocky hills, marshy grasslands, and a dense canopy of tropical moist forests. In between the forested slopes and marshy glens traverse small rivers - lifelines of the ecosystem. The enigmatic landscape heightens the perception of depth, stirs imagination, and peppers mind and body.

The thrill of exploring mysterious jungle life is heightened by equally mysterious elusive animals that exude charisma, fear, and awe. The tiger rules supreme, King personified and embellished in myths, arts, literature, and cultures all over the World.

Bandhavgarh in its niche habitats, unfathomable caves amidst rocky crevices, towering hillocks,  and sun-baked plateaus nourishes remains of ancient kingdoms. Of Kings and Queens who ruled in glorious times and were eventually vanquished by conquerors. The ruins lie scattered unfolding saga of human civilizations that sought shelter in the unreachable and secure womb of these dense forests.

Bandhavgarh is a fascinating blend of ancient history and equally fascinating jungle life. The pristine forests, prehistoric petrographic and man-made caves, zoomorphic idols, ancient temples, stables, reservoirs, and a magnificent fort stand testimony to ancient civilizations that coexisted with nature.

The park is the best place to watch tigers in the wild. In a small area of 400 plus sq. km, a large population of Bengal tigers survives. The tigers of Bandhavgarh have been epitomized and made eternal by filmmakers, wildlife photographers, and storytellers alike. Be it the legendary Badka, Sita, or awesome Charger all have been objects of sustained documentation and study. The stars of this wildlife resort have propelled it to International fame and mention. Visited by a large number of inbound and Indian tourists the park invites more and more visitors every year. One can see a large cross-section of the park on safaris and enjoy big games and birding. The resort offers all king of hotel accommodations from super luxurious to budget.

The core focus in Bandhavgarh National Park in MP has always been on tigers due to high visibility and fecundity. On safari besides tigers and leopards, one can see many deer species, lesser carnivores, and small often nocturnal mammals. Bird life at Bandhavgarh is interesting and invites many birdwatchers to the preserve. The impressive biodiversity is best experienced during a long stay and repeated visits.

The park is accessible from Jabalpur by road (4 hrs +) which is connected by flight service with New Delhi. Utkal Express makes a short stop at Umaria rail head about 32 km from the tiger preserve. From Khajuraho, BTR is a 6 to 7 hours drive.

Swamp Deer at Kanha

The park management at Kanha National Park swells with pride whence the swamp deer comes into the picture. The swamp deer or Hard Ground Barasingha is a race found only at Kanha in MP, India. The taxonomic classification is Cervus duavcelli branderi. Named after Dunbar Brander who first discovered the fact.

The difference lies in the hoof which has been modified into adapting to the hard ground. The hoof is not spread out or splayed unlike other species of deer. The swampy grounds in Kanha are not extensive hence the modification. This red deer species is one of the most charismatic animals along with the tiger.

The deer is primarily dependent upon certain species of grass and rarely goes for coarse feed. The habitat is the grasslands of Kanha, mainly the Saunf meadow where they breed, Bisanpura and Saunder. They are slowly occupying other grasslands as well. In summer large number of swamp deer can be seen around Kanha meadow. In instances, I have seen the deer entering the thick canopy.

The fully grown stag weighs approximately 180 kg and is smaller in dimension than the sambar deer. The females are smaller and light brown in color. Like all deer species, they are devoid of horns. The twelve tines have accorded it the name Barasingha (Bara=12, singha=horns). But the horns do not contain twelve tines always and the number can be less or up to 14 on average. The reddish-brown fur and shapely antlers make this a charismatic mammal.

The male swamp deer live in schools whence young but take over a female herd whence fully grown and out to mate. The mating takes place in the winter months of November and December whence grown-up male adorn their antlers with a long stripe of grass and mud. The mating calls reverberate throughout the valley. The stags indulge in power play with each other to mate with a doe in estrous. The territorial fights are rarely injurious, as much before the strength is decided. This is nature's way of ensuring the best gene transfer with minimal damage.

The gestation period is around six months and usually, a single fawn is born. The females care for the young. The fawn mortality is due to carnivores like the tiger, leopard, jackal, wild dog, and python and at times due to disease. In order to conserve the species a large mesh wire enclosure has been created in the park. This prevents predation from carnivores and reptiles. The reptiles were physically removed. The enclosure reduces the chances of infectious disease.

This is the saga of success, whence from sixty-plus animals the number has grown to over 300 heads. Thanks to George Schaller and other researchers this fact came to light and the enclosure was created. The number has stabilized at over three hundred and efforts are being made to increase the population.

The pride of Kanha National Park in MP is the main tourist attraction during the tiger safaris. With greater conservation efforts and advanced research, the population of this once gregarious deer should increase.

The increase in the population of the hard-ground Barasingha is essential if the animal has to be saved from extinction. The gregarious deer once thrived in large numbers in suitable habits around Kanha park. Now confined to the core this animal is highly susceptible to foot and mouth disease and rinderpest. The carriers are the livestock that occupies the buffer zone in very large numbers. Timely inoculation of the livestock is mandatory to prevent disease influx amongst the wild species.

Mouse Deer at Kanha

There was a lot of speculation about mouse deer or Indian chevrotain at Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh Central India. The taxonomic classification is tragulus meminna....... family Tragulidae. Mouse deer is a ruminant and prefers forest habitats or grassy areas surrounded by rocky hillsides. Such habitat is widespread in this tiger reserve, and the discovery suggests a healthy or rather well-preserved habitat for niche-dwelling species.

The deer was spotted and photographed at Kanha by a guest staying at a hotel in Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh. The news was published in a local daily. Though I had heard from jeep drivers and guides about the presence of this animal in face of concrete evidence and reliable identification, it was difficult to establish the presence of this animal. But the recent findings are an eye-opener. In spite of a such large number of visitors and forest staff, a species can go unnoticed or unidentified.

This could apply to other animals especially birds at Kanha since trained eyes roving in large numbers is a must for a correct listing of life forms in our National parks and sanctuaries.

This speaks of how little we know of wildlife - flora, and fauna - of our tiger heavens and so much is still to be done apart from saving the endangered tiger which rightly is the first priority.

Booking Park Excursion Entry

To book a park excursion entry or entries to Kanha tiger reserve or Pench, Bandhavgarh and Panna national parks in Madhya Pradesh, an online booking should be made before hand in order to avoid running into a closed gate due to fixed carrying capacity as per new rules regarding number of vehicle entry allowed in the parks .

Park Entry Online Booking

The online booking page also leads to information on tariff and availability of excursions on given date in the national parks or tiger reserves.

Bookings at the portal above can be paid for by credit card. For cash payment one need to use service of authorized kiosks of the government. The kiosks are situated only in Madhya Pradesh at present. Find list of about three hundred kiosks on the portal.

Hotel owners will also be able to book excursions into the national parks using the online facility subject to conditions mentions on the portal.

MP Online Hotel Owners

In case of bookings made in advance the passengers in a vehicle have to give names, IDs for verification.

Park gate also provides advance booking. MP Online is ready to appoint more lodges as their kiosks.

Tiger Resorts

It is resting time for denizens of Kanha but the open season is nearing. After monsoons the parks in Central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh open for tiger safari in India.

The establishment of the parks was from the point of view to conserve tigers and other wild animals. Most of the parks in India are declared as tiger reserves since they are being assisted by Project tiger that plays a key role in conservation of the species of Indian tiger. However they have also ended up as the most preferred destinations for wildlife safari to see the tiger in India.

Tiger enthusiasts, conservationists and wildlife photographers eagerly wait for the parks to open. Not only the above but the wildlife resort owners too await the opening of the park as their business depends upon tiger tourism.

The most popular parks in MP are Kanha National Park in Central India in Satpura range, Pench tiger reserve in Seoni Hills and Bandhavgarh National Park in Vindhya range. These are the most preferred destinations for Indian safaris and birding. There are lot of budget and luxury lodges a and resorts that cater to ever burgeoning tourism in these centers of wildlife attractions in India.