Why Madhya Pradesh is known as Tiger State? Why Tigers Abound Here

 Madhya Pradesh Tiger State

With a population of 526 Bengal tigers, Madhya Pradesh has wrestled the title from Karnataka which was leading in numbers since the last census in the year 2010. In that year, Karnataka registered a population of 408 big cats.  But the last census conducted in the year 2018 showed more big cats than ever in Madhya Pradesh. Although the number is minuscule whence compared with their population before the hunting began a few centuries back.   

Bengal Tiger

 

Central Indian Tiger Landscape

Central India for centuries has been a heavily forested State with more than 40% of the area under forest cover. It was connected by extensive corridors with tiger landscapes in the North and the East and down below right up to the tiger landscape of Southern India. The fluid passages acted as a safe conduit for the migration of big cats and their prey. 

The state encompasses Vindhya Range in the North  West, and the Satpura Hill Range forming a ridge below. Both ranges converge at Maikal Hills in the Amarkantak  Achanakmar Biosphere Reserve. The region known as the Highlands of Central India comprises inaccessible terrain that encompasses Steep cliffs and tabletop mountains scattered all over the region. This terrain is now home to Central India's tiger reserves namely:

• Panna National Park
• Bandhavgarh National Park
• Nauradehi Tiger Reserve
• Achankmar Tiger Reserve
• Kanha National Park
• Pench National Park
• Satpura Tiger Reserve 
• Rata Pani Tiger Reserve
• Sanjay Dubri Tiger Reserve 

Although these reserves are fragmented with non-existing weak corridors they hold a substantial population of big cats, and the numbers are rising. Tigers need inviolate areas to breed and hunt they are sensitive to human intrusion and agrarian practices that clear forests. The predator is an ambush hunter and cannot chase its prey like the cheetah or the lion. The animal cannot survive in the absence of a dense crown cover intermingled with bush country and tall grasses. It needs a good prey base and water supply from waterholes, rivers, lakes, etc. 

Madhya Pradesh is endowed with characteristics that tiger habitats should have hence the state is home to amazing tiger landscapes that can help breed and sustain large populations. The next best step would be the formation of corridors but that is a distant dream.  

Thus the high-level saturation of the tiger population is due to habitat formations that best suit the predator. There still exists some large contiguous areas that are connected by corridors still allow migration of the predators and the prey. Inaccessible terrain, dense crown cover, and plenty of prey base. Thus populations are flourishing wherever proper protection is provided to them. 

The ban on hunting by the Wildlife Protection Act 1972 and the formation of protected areas under the Project Tiger Program were highly successful all over India. This prevented hunting and poaching and provided them with inviolate areas where they could breed in peace.

A large sum of money is being pumped up into conservation. Fortunately, it is being generated from tiger tourism in the reserves. Tourists, holidaymakers, filmmakers, and photographers are regular visitors to these parks. Although the target species is the tiger they are also attracted by animals like the swamp deer, sloth bear, wild elephants, leopard, wolves, wild dogs, and even small predators and deer. 

Birding is also attracting a large number of visitors since these parks are home to more than two hundred avian species. Bird watching, and nature trails, are organized by luxury hotels using the services of a naturalist. The tiger reserves of Central India comprise excellent tourism infrastructure including the approach roads. 

Jabalpur Airport and Railhead in MP is the fulcrum from where you can easily approach these destinations. You can also approach some reserves from Nagpur Airport and Khajuraho Airport. Remember the park is closed during the monsoon due to slush formation on the roads. 

For excursions in the parks your need a safari permit for each ride. Book permits in advance since the jeep entry is limited. You can book a safari through the tour operator or at MPOnline. 

Leopards in Kanha

The focus on tigers pushes this magnificent cat into the background. In most of the Indian tiger reserves, leopards are not much sought after. They are treated as one the inhabitants of the ecosystem. Very little work is done on these animals except at places where man-eating menace exists.

Though much is required, the attention only to the tiger is not a good policy. Consequent studies and research on both will assist in the conservation of all big cats in the country. There are many common characteristic features in these carnivores, and discovering facts related to one will lead to helping the other. 

Kanha is a largely intact ecosystem that is home to leopards besides the Bengal Tiger. The tiger's presence puts the animal in a precarious situation - a kind of nightmarish existence. This is the main reason for the leopard to turn nocturnal and make an arboreal existence. In Sri Lanka where the tiger is absent, these cats exhibit diurnal behavior. 

In Kanha National Park the panther is more active in the periphery of the forests and the surrounding villages. Its range covers most of the buffer zone with some presence in the core area as well. Frequent incidences of livestock killing are those by leopards and surprisingly the animal has killed livestock bigger in size as was evident at Boda Chhapri Village.  But the core is noticeably dominated by the tigers. In a conflict with the tiger, the panther is killed and eaten without fail. Hence the spacing mechanism adopted by this animal is remarkable but nevertheless, many of these cats are hunted down by tigers. The extent is not known in absence of reliable data but I presume the figure would be on the higher side.    

The competition for food is one reason for this lack of tolerance among these tertiary carnivores. The leopard cannot kill animals larger than female sambar deer, it definitely avoids large-sized prey species. Its adaptability is more tenacious than that of the striped cat.  It can live on consuming small animals, birds, poultry, and livestock, besides the prey available in the forests. This animal can also survive in broken ecosystems or denuded forests with a little bit of day cover.

There are assumed to be around 70 leopards in Kanha Tiger Reserve in an area of 1940 sq km. But I believe that it is next to impossible to come to the correct conclusion since the animal moves in diverse habitats and is very elusive.  Extensive camera trapping can assist in this task besides keeping tabs on livestock predation and records of sightings. 

In Kanha Zone, a leopard was seen regularly last year near the Khatia Gate. One animal has been seen and photographed several times on link road 7.  This animal is rarely seen in the grasslands of the reserve since these are dominated by the much larger striped cousin. I have seen them near villages at night on Kanha Indri Road sulking in nullahs bushes in search of suitable livestock.   

The status of this animal is precarious all over with a lot of killing by man wherever it survives. The number of hides being confiscated from poachers is suggestive of very large numbers being killed in India. This is going to result in the complete extermination of the animal from a large part of its historical range. Man-animal conflict and urbanization of denuded forests add to the quick decrease in population.  

Tiger Safari: Rates Kanha & Bandhavgarh

From the coming season, the new vehicle entry rates will apply. The parks will open on 16th October as usual.

Kanha and Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve tourism zones have been changed and upgraded.

At Kanha, the Kanha Zone is notified as premium and its charges are:

Rs.1500 for Indians and Rs.3000 for foreigners. Besides this guide fees filming fee, etc will also apply.

Other zones are Mukki & Sarhi Gates.

At Bandhavgarh, the vehicle entry fee is Rs.2000 for Indians and Rs. 4000 for foreigners. This is for Tala Zone which is premium.  

Other Zones are Panpatha, Khitauli, and Magadhi Zones.

Jeep hire is extra for that contact manager of your accommodation in the tiger reserve.  

Access to zones may be from outside so leave in advance and be prepared to pay more for an extra ride to reach the gates.  

Each Wednesday evening safaris are closed, so schedule village/school tours for this day evening. 

In the notification by the forest department, no tariff is given for nonpremium zones. Visit MP Online  for more information. There is vehicle restriction inside the park hence book your gate entry in advance. This can be done at MP Online. 

Tiger Safari More Expensive

Though I am not citing a confirmed report, it is obvious that rates will go up.  I have heard from a hotelier in Bandhavgarh about the increase in gate fees in all Central Indian Tiger Reserves. For a long time, the administration was intent on increasing gate fees and all related fees. How much increase there is yet to be seen by the author.  

This is necessary as the cost has gone up as they are bound to. Even the jeep safari rates have gone up which is understood. The rates of petrol affect the transportation cost all over India hence the tiger reserve. 

Will this impact tourism in our tiger reserves?

Well yes and no!

The rich will continue to come here and enjoy their wildlife holidays in larger numbers. The tigers and their habitat receive tremendous publicity in wildlife magazines and on TV. This diverts more and more people towards tiger tourism in India.

But the increasing cost of the tours will certainly affect the middle class and those below. The major impact will be on the hotels and resorts since not all cater to upscale tourists.  Most of the accommodation will be stressed.

The negative aspect is that nature should be witnessed by a wide spectrum of society. It is quite understood that visitors begin to understand nature close and develop a more practical approach towards it and its conservation. A lot of Indian tourists who visit these preserves on a budget are going to be deprived of this eye-opening experience and miss out on this amazing inheritance.   This applies to budget travelers from foreign soils as well. The negative impact of increased safari costs will make tiger tourism appear to be a prerogative of the wealthy. This will certainly create antipathy toward these parks among the have not’s.    

For school-going children a park visit is a learning experience and is vital for them. These very kids will grow up with a positive attitude towards the environment and all other life forms.    

Some way has to be found out in order to invite less privileged people sans some privileges. Another answer is to open up more wildlife sanctuaries for tourism with proper infrastructure development. But are we very good at finding solutions to problems, take the case of tiger conservation in India?

MP Increasing tigers

The last tiger census showed an increase in the tiger population. This was heartening but the increase was not impressive by any means. More the Madhya Pradesh Forest Minister was not happy with the state figures.

The tigers have been declining in numbers in MP. The decline is more because the census methods have been improved. They are no longer at the mercy of the whims and fantasies of the park authorities. The recounting exercise carried out by the state government showed a minor increase. But this was more an ego-boosting exercise rather than a serious conjecture of what is happening.   

Panna was the first shocker and the falling numbers in other tigers' reserves are suggestive of some major issues. What we should keep in mind is that the ground situation may have gone worse. Disturbance in and around the reserves and the incidence of poaching cannot be ruled out.

Hence a proactive corrective stance is needed more than the counting exercise. Tiger conservation is important if we wish to save this wonderful apex mammal. Much depends on how we perceive this importance and go all out to save the species. India still retains the largest population of tigers in the wild. Let us get the ball rolling fetch and upswing scenario rather than the prevailing downslide.     

Elephants in Tiger Reserve

Shiva was touching eleven feet and weighed perhaps five tons whence it killed two people in Kanha. This was perhaps the first such tragic incident in the National Park. The elephant was in an aggressive state of musth whence its mahout was transferred to control wild elephants in Sarguja District.

Elephants play a major role in the tiger reserves of India. Ecologically they are destructive in reserves that are not natural elephant habitats. Bandhavgarh Gate is the best example of how these pachyderms have ravaged the forests. There is no historical record of these animals in the wilds of Madhya Pradesh. In such places, they should be fed more and should not be allowed to forage in the forests extensively.

Anyway, their role in tiger reserves is to help patrol and protect from poachers. They are the prime attraction during the safaris whence the parks are open. Tiger show - much criticized in the past- is the best method to show tourists the magnificent animal in the wild.

Elephants are captured in Eastern and Southern India using various methods. They are then sold to buyers and are trained by elephant riders or mahouts. This might be not legal now. The training starts right from a young age. At Bandhavgarh I have experienced a young male being trained by the mahout it is a grilling exercise but definitely not cruel. Incidentally, I was there whence a calf was born at the reserve. It was for the first time in the history of the tiger reserves that a birth had taken place in captivity.

Elephants in Central Indian tiger reserves are a prominent feature. In the tiger show, the tiger is traced by the elephants and mahouts and then cordoned off. The tourist then rides on the elephant back up to the spot and is brought back. It is a short ride but fulfills many a dream of sighting a tiger in the wild as well as sitting on the huge beast. The most interesting part is how the huge beast traverses through dense forests and engaged in active conversation with its rider.

Most of the preserves have six to eight tame elephants which provide yeomen services. The pachyderms though tame have a wild instinct in them forever. They are like family members of the mahout for lifelong. There is a strong bond between the animal and its rider. It is an intelligent animal and very useful.

Bison Translocation - New Dimension in Conservation

The recent ongoing trans location of Bison or Gaur from Kanha to Bandhavgarh TR accords a new dimension to wildlife conservation in India. Earlier the trans location of the Swamp Deer from Kanha to Bandhavgarh had failed miserably. It resulted in the death of all the Swamp Deer being trans located.

It was not only tragic but a great loss as well since the swamp deer or Hard Ground Barasingha is a highly endangered sub species found only in Kanha. The swamp deer were being translocated to Bandhavgarh a habitat which holds no historical record or evidence of swamp deer ever present there. But that was way back.

With induction of new technologies and technique the Bison trans location to Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve would be more successful. Nature conservation in India is in a piteous state in spite of the country making long strides in every field. Whatever is said, nature is accorded a low priority here.

The conservation impetus thrives due to few individuals, NGO and some dedicated and committed officials who go unsung. The required political will is not there though there are exceptions.

The trans location of Bison is going to be a major challenge since the stock being translocated is not familiar with the terrain. The Bison in India are local migratory species and the migration pattern is strongly ingrained in the genes. The only hope is that the population was once interconnected before habitat destruction took place. This would mean presence of genetic traits which will help the coarse grazer to migrate to suitable pockets as seasons change.

But the challenge will remain, the threat from foot and mouth disease, rinderpest is for real. Until unless proper inoculation of live stock in the buffers takes place the whole exercise will be futile. I strongly believe that the local extinction of this bovine was due disease. There is no palpable reason why the stock would migrate to another habitat leaving the present habitat which is well conserved.

Another plus point is that both the tiger reserves are similar in habitat or forest types, though topography may differ. Bandhavgarh was the last and only strong hold of Gaur North of Narmada River. If the success takes place than the tragic local extinction would fade into history.

Though prevention is better than cure no one minds re-establishment of locally rare species. This is the case with Panna and Sariska as well. Spreading of rare genetic stocks in suitable habitats augurs greater survival chance.

Alarms bells should sound in case of Gir Lions a population enclosed in one habitat. An epidemic like FPL can wipe the whole population. Donating a pride to Palpur Kuno would mean one step forward in conservation. This in case of highly isolated lion population and only sub species in the World - Asiatic Lion.

Less Seen Animals - Central Indian Tiger Reserves

The tiger reserves in Central India are a major focus of attention as far as tiger tourism is concerned. This comes through the high visibility of this extremely endangered animal in the country. Tiger chases in the parks have given a bad name to tourism by and large in these magnificent reserves.

Not surprisingly every one wishes to see the tiger. It is our beloved Earth's most coveted animal, charismatic to the bone and mystical. Irrespective of the conservation ethos of our ancient scriptures we have managed the reverse. Wild tiger sighting is an experience of a lifetime. First time or last you never come out of it.

The reserves of Central India or MP have a high density of tigers namely Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench. Besides they are intact ecosystems with amazing biodiversity. This is to be experienced in totality in order to enjoy nature. As interest in nature deepens a desire for a holistic experience of ecosystems is a natural precursor.

Every element of nature's wonderful creation excites and thrills. It gives meaning to our own existence on Earth. A lifetime is not enough to experience these pristine tiger havens in totality. But whatever more you experience is enough.

On tiger safaris, other animals seen in the forests and grasslands are Nilgai, swamp deer (Kanha), sambar, spotted deer, langur, wild boar, jackal, wild dog, bison, and oft barking deer. A leopard sighting is the thrill of a lifetime and so is that of the sloth bear.

Rarely seen are the mouse deer recently discovered at Kanha, four-horned deer - endemic species, Indian wolf - highly endangered, and hyena. It is most exciting to see the nightlife albeit night safaris in the park are not allowed. One can certainly go through on the common roads outside the park. Animals often seen on night rounds are leopards on the prowl, sloth bears, jungle cats, civet cats, porcupines, foxes, ratel, and mouse deer? some birds like night jars, large owls, and Eurasian thicknee. It is possible to see Hyenas and Wolves at nighttime wherever they survive.

The reptiles are shy and extremely nocturnal, most commonly seen are the monitor lizard, python, cobra, krait, viper, rat snake, keelbacks, and grass snakes. Many species of tortoise can be seen in ponds. The rivers in these tiger reserves do not hold mugger or gharial. They are found in Ken River Sanctuary near Panna National Park.

In India, wild safaris hold an element of surprise. Animals en masse are rarely seen. A dull day can turn into an electrifying moment in one go. Trekking skills help a lot but it is luck that dominates for one and all.

The tiger reserves are places for exciting birding in Madhya Pradesh for birders. More than two hundred fifty avian species can be checked and listed. These are ideal destinations for forest birding in India.

Wild Bovids: Indian Bison

Though not as popular as the tiger, Indian bison or gaur is an extremely majestic animal. The appearance is striking with a reach of five and a half feet to six feet and a weight of 700 to 1000 kg. The species is extremely muscular and shapely with white stockings...nature's striking adornment. The protruding dorsal ridge and dewlaps are typical to males who are glistening black (violet) in color. The fawn-colored females are smaller with inward horns and a less prominent dorsal ridge. The animal is the epitome of fierce strength, and looks fearful, though it is shy by nature.

Gaur belongs to the ox race and the name bison is a misnomer. It is a gregarious animal and as a coarse feeder, it has a penchant for floral elements on hillsides. It is a hill animal and is stressed out to descend up to the grasslands or meadows in Kanha and elsewhere in summer. The only species of Guar North of Narmada was at Bandhavgarh but the disease took its toll and none survive.

The largest population of Gaur (Bos gaurus) is found in the Melghat tiger reserve followed by Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh India. The animals live in herds of ten to forty and forage in grasslands at Kanha. Docile by nature they can ferociously defend their calves from charging tigers. Mostly silent the calls are a series of gutturals and woofs.

The big cat is their only predator and hunts the young ones and often adults. But tiger predation is not to a threatening extent...diseases are. The species is susceptible to rinderpest and foot and mouth disease. An epidemic in 1976 at Kanha tiger reserve took a heavy toll on this majestic bovine. The animals are very shy and like swamp deer cannot survive along with man.

Not much is known about the species, but they are hardy animals, true to their order, and survive in many National Parks in India. Their closest relative is the Banteng found in Eastern India.

The disease carriers are the livestock in the villages nearby the park. As a rule, the livestock has to be inoculated against such disease. The animals in protected areas are not in danger but those outside are unheard of leaving Kanha and Pench.

The herd consists of young ones and females and is led by an old female. The adult males take over the herd during breeding and then stay separate in groups of 2 or 3 or even solitary. The animal has a crucial role in the food chain and in preserving the ecosystem of dense forests.

Tigers in the grasslands

Large extensive edaphic grasslands are typical to many of our tiger reserves. Earlier inhabited by local tribesmen these precious habitats were vacated for the subsistence of wild species to whom the habitat belonged for eons. The grasslands are prime habitats for deer species, especially for animals like the swamp deer. Swamp deer survive solely on marshy grasslands in India. The swamp deer or Barasingha at Kanha is an exception as it has adapted to an existence on hard ground. The grassy meadows are at the fulcrum of activities in our tiger reserves.

Most of the prey and predator saga unfolds here - the grassland is a vital element of the food chain. Bandhavgarh is a prime example of a grassland ecosystem interspersed with dense Sal forests. Many of the grasslands inhabited by tribesmen have been vacated. Inundated by rivulets, the wet marshy grasslands are preferred hunting grounds for the majestic tigers. Bandhavgarh though small is a prolific breeding ground for Bengal tigers. The undulating terrain, inaccessibility, dense canopy, and large prey base is the reason. The survival rate of the cubs is very high in this picturesque animal kingdom. The tall grass act as effective camouflage and hence allows the tigers to creep close to the prey before striking. 

Unlike lions, tigers cannot run for a long distance hence they hunt by ambush. The marshy grasslands are effective killing grounds and the big cats love them. They are excellent for raring cubs in absolute safety and shelter. The grassland ecosystem is frequented by a large number of herbivores and hence are ideal prey base. The most powerful of the tiger's reign over these habitats. The meadows are also frequented by territorial females and young males. The struggle for survival means the fittest should exist. Prime grasslands in BTR are Chur Behera, Raj Behera, Chakradhara, Bathan, Sehra, and Mahman. High fecundity, low mortality, and abundant prey make the preserve an ideal tiger habitat with the highest density. For this reason, tiger sightings in the wild are very high. The jungle roads intersect prime tiger habitats in order to accord high visibility to these magical cats. The tourism infrastructure is well-developed. 

A large number of wildlife resorts are available for stay in Bandhavgarh. One can avail of the best packages for accommodation. For safari, jeeps can be hired at Tala village or arranged by the hotels. The tiger reserve is well protected though danger looms all over. Bandhavgarh nature preserve in India is the best place to see tigers in the wild. Every year thousands from all over the World visit the park.

Birds of Kanha

Kanha Forest though popular for tiger safaris is an excellent bird habitat. Though a diverse habitat by all means it lacks large water bodies. The wetlands basically comprise Sondhar and Bisanpura and a medium-sized tank at Kanha Meadow called Shravan Taal. There are many small shallow lakes beside the rivers Banjar and Halon and their tributaries. The water bodies are the habitat of quite a number of aquatic birds but are not as impressive as in other birding habitats.

The National Park is an excellent habitat for forest birds as well as some grassland birds. The surveys conducted by me and many naturalists checklist an exciting number of resident and migratory birds.

The most popular birds of Kanha are those that are easily seen. Among them are Grey Headed Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet, Racket Tailed Drongo, Golden and Black Headed Oriole, Shama, Blackrumped Flameback, Grey Francolin, Painted Francolin, Northern Pintail, Lesser Whistling Teal, Common Teal, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Grey Hornbill, Alexandrine Parakeet, Red Billed Malkoha, Plum Headed Parakeet, Rose Ringed Parakeet, Crested Hawk Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Grey Headed Fishing Eagle,White Eyed Buzzard, Oriental honey Buzzard, Shikra, Osprey, White Backed Vulture, King Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Brown Fish Owl, tawny Fish Owl, Mottled Fish Owl, Jungle Owlet, Spotted Owlet, Indian Scimitar Babbler, Paradise Flycatcher, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Open Billed Stork, Painted Stork, Woolly Necked Stork, Black Ibis, White Ibis, Great Cormorant, Egrets, Orange Headed Ground Thrush, Common Iora, Brown Cheeked Fulvetta, Spangled Drongo, White Bellied Drongo, Ashy Drongo, Black Drongo, Gold Mantled Chloropsis, Jerdon’s Leaf Bird, Common Wood Shrike, Large Cuckoo Shrike, Black Headed Cuckoo Shrike, Oriental Turtle Dove, Red Collared Dove, Emerald Dove, Green Footed Pigeon, Laughing Dove, Spotted Dove, Eurasian Ring Dove, Black Naped Monarch, Verditor Flycatcher, Blue Capped Rock Thrush, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Red Throated Flycatcher, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, Grey Headed Canary Flycatcher, Little Minivet, Black redstart, Rosy Starling, Jungle Myna, Chestnut Bellied Nuthatch, Velvet Fronted Nuthatch, Great Tit, Black Lored Tit, Wire Tailed Swallow, Plain Martin, Barn Swallow, Red Rumped Swallow, Streak Throated Swallow, Grey Breasted Prinia, Crested Tree Swift, Plain Prinia, Hume’s Warbler, Lesser White Throat, Common Chiff Chaff, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, Sulphur Bellied Warbler, Tawny Bellied Babbler, Yellow Eyed Babbler, Purple Swamphen, Black and White Ibis, Peacock, red Jungle Fowl, and many more birds.

The birds check listed includes residents and winter migrants. There are more than two hundred and fifty avian species in the Kanha Nature Preserve in the state of Madhya Pradesh.

The best birding season is winter from Mid October to March. After March migrants depart from the tiger reserve. Kanha offers the best tiger sightings and wildlife watching. Like in Bandhavgarh preserve one can enjoy birding as well as tiger safaris at Kanha. Most of the birds can be sighted on tiger safaris in the park while trekking in the buffer zone will yield more sightings.

Birding in Central India is becoming very popular as the concept of forest birding dawns upon tourists. The added fun of enjoying the preserves is having an all-encompassing outlook. Bird watching adds to your experience at Central Indian Parks. Seek a good naturalist.

Bandhavgarh ecosystem

Bandhavgarh is a moist deciduous tropical forest type. It is situated in the Vindhya Range which lies in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. The forest flora comprises Sal (Shorea Robusta) as the dominant species with Bamboo (Dendrocalamus strictus) on slopes of hills. The other tree elements comprise Saj, Dhawa, Bhilma, Tendu, Bel, Harra, Bija, Lyndia, Arjun, Mahua, Pipal, Banyan, Kosum, Palas, Salai, Gunjan, Char, Jamun, Aonla, Pakur, Kulu, Amaltas and many more. The woody climbers, herbs, and shrubs constitute the understory.

The grasslands of Bandhavgarh are marshily inundated by Charanganga, Johilla, and Umrar rivers. The marshy grasslands are ideal grounds for hunting Bengal tigers. Most of the grasslands at Bandhavgarh are edaphic but support the herbivores like spotted deer and sambar. There is no historical record of Swamp deer at Bandhavgarh National Park. The only coarse grazer Indian bison or gaur has lost ground here.

The terrain is undulating and comprises steep rocky cliffs many with forested slopes. The valleys that hold marshy grasslands, forest, and crisscrossing rivulets are prime habitats of the herbivores and carnivores follow them here.

There are thirty-two hillocks of which Bandhavgarh Hill is the highest. This is where the Fort is situated alongside Laxman Temple. On the way to the hill is Sesh Shaiiya a fairy pool with reclining Vishnu carved out of rock. On the way up there are many zoomorphic forms of Lord Vishnu carved out of the rocks. The hill expresses solitude and an esoteric charm difficult to behold. Very few tourists visit this place.

Of the grasslands called bahera, Chakradhara and Chur Bahera are famous for tiger safaris in Bandhavgarh. It is here that lot many tiger sightings take place. The Raj Bahera perhaps the largest was home to the gaurs and herds of deer and wild boar. I have experienced a few tiger sightings here. Other interesting places are Shera Dadra, Mahaman, Bathan, Ghoda Daman, and Andheri Jhiriya.

There are many water bodies, small lakes, ponds, water holes, and small streams that form the life support system of the park. Besides one can spot some water birds as well. The preserve is rich in bird life and can be constituted as a major birding spot for forest birds.

The tiger sits at the apex of the food chain and hence is the keystone species being a tertiary carnivore. The leopards and wild dogs are at the top rung of the food chain a degree less than the tigers. The consumers comprise mainly spotted deer, sambar, barking deer, and four-horned deer. The Nilgai keeps open areas of the park on the exterior of Bathan and elsewhere. The chinkara has not been seen in my numerous visits since last decade. The nocturnal animals are less seen as night safaris are not allowed in the park. Sloth bears, foxes, ratel, porcupines, civet cats, flying squirrels, and the rest can be seen on the night drives on the periphery of public roads. Jackals, mongooses, and jungle cats are diurnal. Flash and spotlights are not allowed. Hyenas and Indian wolves are less seen and their status is unknown. The sighting of the caracal is not confirmed. Mouse deer recently discovered in Kanha wildlife preserve is not check listed here.

The reptiles common are grass snakes, pythons, cobras, krait, vipers, rat snakes, keelbacks, tree snakes, and many more are less seen perhaps more apparent during the monsoons whence the preserve is closed. Monitor lizards and flying lizards are present here.

The insect life in thousands is yet to be discovered with butterflies being the most exciting elements. Signature spiders and other species are widespread while moths can be sighted here and there.

The producers are indescribable...perhaps a botanist would do a better job. But the floral diversity is as striking as the fauna is. From microorganisms to algae and fungi and exotic plants such as Sundew (Drossera indica) The park is limited by its canopy spread and the designated area by Project Tiger holds little meaning. The support systems are all around and habitats outside park confines are as important.

Bandhavgarh forests were earlier favored hunting grounds for Maharajas of Rewa. The intact ecosystem as of today is perhaps a result of the zealous preservation of the forests for their sport. After Independence Bandhavgarh Park was declared a tiger reserve. The project initiated by the government of India is to conserve tiger habitats and its tigers. The park has shown excellent response to conservation efforts. The tigers and other wildlife flourish with gusto.

The park has the highest density of tigers in India and hence is the best place to see tigers in the wild. Though not absolutely safe from poachers and wood smugglers the inaccessible hilly regions perhaps are a boon to wildlife here.

Wildlife in Bandhavgarh & Kanha Buffer

The National Parks in Madhya Pradesh and elsewhere in India are usually divided into two zones. The main sanctum sanctorum is referred to as the core zone while the outer forest cover is called the buffer zone. The sum total of the area of the two zones is the area of the park.

The core zone is devoid of any human settlement sans a research center, huts of the forest-beat guards, and the director's bungalow. The core can have government rest houses usually meant for VIPs and MPT hotels. The core zone is reserved for tiger tourism and wildlife safaris.

The buffer zone has human habitation in nonforest land and hotels in nontribal land. Most of the hotels in Bandhavgarh are situated in the buffer zone. I think there is now legislation in place which prohibits hotel construction in areas within some distance from the National Parks.

The buffer zone acts as a barrier to human activities and illegal intrusion in the park. Practically the buffer zone has as much of a dense canopy as the core zone. In the case of Bandhavgarh and Kanha, the buffer zone is devoid of long stretches of grasslands or meadows.

Leaving the grassland dwelling species as the Hard Ground Barasingha all mammals in the core zone inhabit the buffer as well. Some species as the Blue Bull, Indian Wolf, and Hyena prefer open stretches of fallow land and scrub forest. The status of these animals is in peril due intrusion of civilization and expanding agriculture.

It is difficult to see these animals in the park buffer and the Indian wolf is severely persecuted due to myth and fear. The genesis of man-animal conflict lies in the buffer zone which is subjected to grazing pressure from the livestock of enormous magnitude.

The carnivores at times hunt on the livestock creating ill will amongst the villagers who in turn at time poison the remaining kill. For leopards and tigers who roam in the buffers, livestock is easy prey and the temptation to kill is overwhelming. Though as in Bandhavgarh & Kanha the prey base is sufficient in the buffer zone. The intrusion by deer in the agriculture fields on the periphery is another reason for man-animal conflict. The irony is that we have intruded into their habitat, not the animals. The burgeoning population and increasing dependence on agriculture is the main reason.

The spotted deer come very close to human habitation in the buffer zone at the night but the Bison in the case of Kanha is shy. Small deer like the Barking deer and the Four-horned deer are shy as well. The Chinkara which was diurnal in nature and frequented open lands is not being seen anymore in wild abundance as before. This could be due to poaching as has happened elsewhere. Nilgai or Blue Bulls are most abundant as they are not killed.

The buffer zone supports varied small mammals most of which are nocturnal. On a night safari, one can see civet cats, jungle cats, porcupines, ratel, and reptiles. The leopard inhabits the buffer zone on regular basis as the pressure from the tigers pushes them towards the outer areas. This animal is at ease with the ways of the humans and frequents human habitation boldly at times relying on livestock, stray dogs, and even poultry.

Bird life in the buffers is amazing and as much in number as in the core zones. Some niche habitat birds like the Malabar pied Hornbill and the Shama may not be seen in the buffer with ease. On a birding trip, one can nevertheless spot a large number of bird species including migrants in the winter.

Though night safaris in the park are not allowed one can move on the common roads at night. Flash and searchlights are not permitted but one can see a lot by the jeep lights. Some hotels in Bandhavgarh & Kanha organize night safaris. They follow the guidelines for ethical night safaris which do not disturb wildlife. Such safaris are only for tourists using the hotel accommodation.

It is safe to go on a night safari keeping strictly to the jeep and not alighting from it. One cannot venture into the park confines and hence has to keep to the common roads. An early night safari starting in the evening and ending by dinner time is better. Although human traffic is high at day time it eases as evening draws on. The shy animals then emerge from their retreat and can be spotted.

There are some parks in India where night safaris are conducted in an organized manner. for the tourists. This is a very good way to observe nocturnal animals in their natural habitat. It could also perhaps reduce pressure in the park by curbing tiger safari rides.

Bison translocation Bandhavgarh Wildlife Refuge

Bison in Bandhavgarh was the only population that survived North of the River Narmada in MP, India. The last remaining populations which I saw in the late seventies numbered around sixty-four animals. The number subsequently went down to about thirty-two animals and then perished in the late nineties.

The bison (Gaur) of Bandhavgarh is the same species as found in Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh, India. The present population at Kanha Tiger Reserve is over 600 animals. The project to translocate a few heads to Bandhavgarh from Kanha or Pench is a good move. The trans location project augurs hope for the animal to survive in another pocket that was home to its erstwhile brethren.

Bison species are by nature local migratory. Being a coarse feeder it moves up the hills in the neighboring forest. In the case of Bandhavgarh, the population was supposed to migrate to Ghunguhti forests nearby. In summer the Gaur herd moved to mainly Raj Behera meadow in Bandhavgarh. This local migration in summer is to get fodder in form of grass and water as the food/water supply diminishes up the hills. This is also a natural way of controlling grazing in one place.

The problem I presume with the trans location of Bison would be that the animals will be penned for some time, this is in contrary to their nature. What would be better than if the trans-located herd desires to express movement, it should be allowed to do so under supervision? The animals should be constantly tracked and monitored. The imperative would be the inoculation of disease among livestock in the surroundings. This is the primary reason why Bison did not survive in the park. The animals are susceptible to rinderpest, foot and mouth disease mainly, and the carriers are the livestock.

It would interesting to see if animals migrate accurately in unknown habitats. Does their instinct build up over thousands of years direct them to a safe secure place with food and water supply?

How would the trans-located wild animal population fare in a suitable but unknown ecosystem?

Another important intervention initially would be the protection of fawns by tigers. At Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve the tiger density in the forest zones is very high. Threat to the fawns would be substantial in this park. Large tigers also prey on adult bison successfully. Like the Swamp Deer project at Kanha, fawn predation control would be of great help in this endeavor.

But protection from disease, and enabling local migration would be impertinent if the Bison project has to succeed.

For how long will we be able to resort to human intervention - can't we learn to protect wildlife better in order to avoid such contingencies?

Exciting Birds of Kanha

Kanha National Park earlier known as Kanha Kisli is home to the endangered tiger and hard-ground swamp deer. But the tiger overshadows Kanha's popularity over its other famed aspects.

Birding at Kanha Tiger Preserve is a highly interesting activity. The bird watching at Kanha is popular among birders who come on tiger safaris in the park. Now many tour operators are planning full-fledged birding tours.

Kanha is a habitat for approximately two hundred and fifty bird species the checklist includes winter visitors. At Kanha wildlife refuge the forest birds are best seen. Since there are no large water bodies, wetland bird watching is not as exciting as Bharatpur in Rajasthan.

Forest birding is a very exciting but arduous task. Long hours of waiting, highly focused vision for spotting birds in the canopy, and good knowledge of bird calls is a prerequisites. This is for both - bird guides and birders. Not forgetting high-class pair of binoculars and spotting scope and good bird books.

The most exciting finds (though not rare) are Malabar pied hornbill, Shama, Indian scimitar babbler, and Paradise flycatchers. Racket-tailed drongo, Spangled Drongo also take the cake. It requires trained eyes and skills to locate these birds since they are mostly hiding in thick foliage. Malabar pied hornbill prefers higher canopy of the tree while the Shama keeps to bushes and low grounds often. Shama is rated as the best songbird by Salim Ali. These birds are seen in intact ecosystems of the park, and with difficulty outside in the buffer zone.

The common birds are parakeets, orioles, drongos, babblers, bush chats, Indian robins, tree pie, spotted owlet, barred jungle, owlet, orange-headed thrush, common grey hornbill, and mynas. These birds can easily be seen in and around hotels of Kanha in neighboring forests and gardens. Catch hold of the hotel naturalist to assist you.

Among good finds are chloropsis - blue cheeked and gold mantled. Ultramarine flycatchers and wintering warblers are exciting to see the former with difficulty. Iora, Brown cheeked fulvetta, crimson-breasted barbet, grey-headed barbet, grey francolin, painted francolin, rain quail, night jars, red spurfowl, Indian scimitar babbler, and Shama are more often heard than seen. Some of the birds call consistently in the wildlife preserve. If you develop a good ear for bird calls your birding will succeed fourfold.

Large owls and raptors are often seen at the wildlife refuge. Brown Hawk Owl can be seen around trees neighboring marshes with luck. Mottled wood owl is often heard at the night, while collared scops owl can be seen often in pairs near the Pakur tree at the Kisli Gate. Among raptors, honey buzzards, pariah kites, and white-eyed buzzards along with shikra are often seen. Crested serpent eagle and crested hawk eagle though not rare are exciting to spot. The serpent eagle is a persistent caller in the meadows. One can see Ospreys at the water body before the Kisli Gate in winter. Vultures seen are white-backed now rare, King vultures, and often Egyptian vultures on the top of the trees.

Water birds can be seen around Sravan Taal, Bishenpura water body, and Saundher lake. in winter Northern pintail and common teals arrive in respectable numbers. Lesser whistling teals, Nakta, white-necked storks, painted storks, and lesser adjutant storks are resident wetland birds.

The list of birds at Kanha is endless. Bird watching is exciting at this park only if you are not involved in a frantic tiger chase. For any tourist, an effort should be made to appreciate a more holistic picture of the preserve rather than run after tigers or leopards. The best time for a bird tour is in winter whence the numbers are augmented by migrants.

Night Safaris at Kanha Tiger Reserve

In early periods night safaris were not regulated in Kanha National Park. But as a right measure, this was discouraged in toto. It is not a good idea to conduct night safaris in the core zones of any National Park taking into account the disturbance caused and the onus of day safaris which are organized in the morning and evening.

I have always encouraged night safaris among my visitors and have conducted some in the buffer zone...mainly on highways passing through. My preferred route is the road that leads right up to the Kanha NP park boundary from Van Vilas Jungle Resort at Mochha onwards. The night safari route which I prefer is the Mukki Highway and Mocha to Mukki road. The last two are public routes so there is no problem although you may have to notify forest guards or posts on the way. For the first route, it is advisable to contact the first post you come across.

Night safaris are exciting and offer the best chance of sighting less-seen nocturnal animals such as the leopard, porcupine, ratel, Indian fox, civet cats, barking deer, the rare wolf, and more. You can hear night jars and owls and see them under the light. A powerful torch should be very useful albeit care should be taken not to throw light on big cats and bison if you come across them. For large animals, searchlights are not essential as the headlights work fine.

Night safaris are the best way to experience the heart-throbbing delights of tranquil jungle life and its pristine ambiance. Night safaris are being conducted in Rajasthan and as per TOI news, they will be conducted in major NPs and Wildlife Sanctuaries in Karnataka.

Advantages

If properly organized and in the right places, Night safaris at Kanha Tiger Reserve will make tourism more fruitful. Perhaps it will reduce the traffic of day safaris in the core zone.

Night safaris may discourage illegal activities since the roving eyes of the tourists will hinder the movements of poachers and timber smugglers.

It will yield more employment to the locals and add a business to the hotels, jeep owners, and guides. This would be the best way to provide jobs to local guides who often sit jobless due to less tourism inside the core zone.

It will increase awareness amongst the tourists as their scope of understanding this fragile ecosystem will increase.

Caution

The movement for night safaris has to be strictly restricted to nonsensitive areas...away from core zone and breeding zones.

The tourist has to comply with decent behavior, perhaps supervised by the guide as he does so in the day safaris.

The night safaris should be conducted in the same manner as the day safari by the administration...and charged.

The safety of the tourist has to be taken into account.

The timings should be restricted up to 11pm.

Forest birds of Kanha and Bandhavgarh

Kanha National Park and Bandhavgarh National Park offer the best birding opportunity. The bird species checklist surpasses the 250 mark about 50 species less than the Bharatpur bird sanctuary in Rajasthan.

Birdwatching is catching up in these tiger reserves but then birds are not seen en mass here. Forest birding is always straining unless you come across a mixed hunting party. Winters is the best time for birding in these parks but the thick forest canopy makes bird watching strenuous.

Winter visitors or migratory birds arrive from October onwards and one can see ultramarine flycatchers, Hume's warbler, greenish warbler, sulfur bellied warbler, Tickell's warbler, black redstart, pintails, common teals, Asian brown flycatcher, and wagtails. Many species of pipits that migrate in winter can also be seen.

Common birds are grey hornbill, Malabar pied hornbill, orioles, nuthatches, parakeets, drongos, cuckoos, barbets, owls, owlets, crested hawk eagles, crested serpent eagles, honey buzzards, black-naped flycatcher, paradise flycatcher, verditor, Tickell's blue flycatcher, white-eyed buzzard, mynas, sparrows, Greater racket-tailed drongo, orange headed thrush, black-necked stork, lesser adjutant stork and painted stork. There are many more...

The checklist of Bandhavgarh National Park is the same as that of Kanha National Park albeit with minor variations. In these tiger reserves, the terrain varies although the forest habitat is the same. Wetlands birds do not visit these tiger reserves in great numbers as large water bodies are absent, nevertheless, many ducks, teals, sandpipers, and wagtails can be seen during the winters.

Many tour operators, hotels and wildlife resorts now offer birding as an option along with tiger safaris in the park. Those with in house professional naturalists and birding guides deliver the best.

Grasslands of Kanha

Much talked about its tigers, Kanha National Park is an ecosystem that harbors vivid diversity of life forms. It is a true biodiversity conservation center. The topography of the park is unique with rising Maikal Hills enveloped by a dense forest of Sal and Bamboo at places interspersed with grassy meadows, lakes, and small rivers. Unlike Pench, Kanha and Bandhavgarh have less of mixed forest zones. Sal and Bamboo are prevalent in most of the forested zones of the park.

Kanha is famous for not only tigers but its magnificent fauna which boasts twenty-two species. The mouse deer was recently sighted here though earlier reports were not confirmed. The most visible elements of faunal diversity are the herbivores - the main prey base of tigers, leopards, and wild dogs.

Kanha National Park - Meadows

The grasslands of Kanha are extensive and many in number. They are a habitat for a number of grass species like themeda triandra, Sachrum munja, and Bothriocloa odrata to name a few. These grass species are crucial to the survival of herbivores especially the Hard Ground Barasinga or the Hard Ground Swamp Deer (Cervus duavcelli branderi).

Most of the grasslands are edaphic, they were in a much-declined state due to human settlements there. The water logging of soil prevented the growth of perennial woody plants but the grasses grew well. There have been miraculous improvements in the health of these grasslands after the villages were relocated out of Kanha National Park.

The most popular grasslands or meadows in Kanha are the Kanha meadow, Saunf which is the breeding ground of Barsinghas, meadows at Parsa Tola, Kisli, Supkhar, Bamani Dadar, and many more. The grasslands bordering Saundhar Taloa and Bisanpura Talao (Wetlands) are habitats favored by the Barasingha. The Chital or spotted deer are ubiquitous, while Sambar deer are nocturnal and shy. The bison are coarse feeders but climb down the hills to feed in the grasslands in summer.

The meadows are an integral part of the Kanha landscape apart from being a habitat for many life forms including herbivores - the main prey base of the tigers in India. The grassy meadows add charm and enchantment to Kanha's landscape and make it picturesque - as the park is.

The health of grasslands in Kanha is vital for the survival of prey species. Though there is no danger from humans now, the intrusion of lyndia trees is a source of worry for park managers. The ecotone harbors lots of Lyndia tree which are slowly intruding into the meadows. Should there be human intervention or should nature take its own course???

Wildlife Photographic Expeditions & Workshops

Nature PhotographyWorkshops & Tiger Safari

Kanha & Bandhavgarh

Once again Hotel Celebration Group is organizing photographic expedition cum workshop to photograph tigers and other wildlife at:

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve …………………date 17th to 20th November 2009

Kanha Tiger Reserve……………………………date 14th to 17th November 2009

These are the best tiger habitats in Central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Tiger reserves are most popular all over the world for wildlife conservation. Kanha and Bandhavgarh are the best places to see and photograph tigers in the wild.

The two safaris aim to give you maximum exposure to wildlife photography alongside noted wildlife photographer Mr. Kalyan Verma.

This is your best chance to see and photograph Tigers in the wild. These safaris are designed for you to have the maximum wildlife experience at Bandhavgarh and Kanha National Parks. You will return home with breathtaking images of wild Bengal tigers, and a host of the park's enthralling wilderness - deer, leopard, wild boar, sloth bear, wild dog, bison, and wonderful birds and butterflies.

The safaris are accompanied by workshops on photography every evening. The topics range from information on equipment – lens and cameras. Learn various techniques involved in wildlife photography from experts. Find information on different aspects of photography like macro and bird photography, composition, post-processing to natural history and field techniques, and much more.

Features:
• Four days/Three-night stay at Celebration Van Vilas Resort in Kanha / Bandhavgarh National Park or both.
• Five tiger safaris at each park with 4 persons on jeep for an ideal photographic experience.
• Get an opportunity for amazing habitat and landscape photography opportunity.
• Safari includes elephant back tiger watching and photography.
• Learn nature photography techniques, tips, and processing
• Review images each day post-safari.
• Lecture on Tiger Conservation by the WWF Regional Director.
• Informal and fun photography sessions – no grind.
• Mr. Kalyan Verma will shoot alongside you and deliver valuable information.
• Work side by side in groups with expert guidance all along.
• Share knowledge and vision - gain perspective.
• Mr. Kalyan Verma is a professional nature photographer and experienced naturalist in India.

Accommodation
Stay at the finest three-star resort The Celebration Van Vilas in Kanha and Bandhavgarh parks. The luxury lodges are situated at a walkable distance from the park gates. The wildlife lodge provides state of art service, luxurious comforts, and modern amenities. Relish traditional Indian and continental cuisine created by professional chefs.

Who partakes in the safari?

1. Photographers are beginners, amateurs, and professionals.

2. For seasoned photographers venturing into nature photography to further their skills.

3. Just anybody wishing to join these heart-throbbing wildlife safaris and gain knowledge.

What is there in the package?

* Five jeep safaris at both parks each.
* All gate fees.
* Stay as mentioned above on double occupancy basis.
* All meals including morning and evening tea.
* Services of naturalist guides and professional jungle drivers.

What is not included?

* Your traveling costs to and fro from the parks.
* Elephant rides.
* Fee - passport, visa, immunization, insurance, and airport taxes.
* Beverages alcoholic/nonalcoholic.
* Laundry, phone, personal expenses.

Package Cost.

The package... either at Kanha or Bandhavgarh is Rs 14,800 per person.
For participation in both safaris, the package is Rs 27,800 per person. (Incl. transfer between parks).

Accommodation is on twin sharing basis. For private single occupancy, there will be an additional charge of 3000 Rs.

Wish to be part of this wonderful offer?
Then register now:

Send an email: kalian@rtns.org

Provide the following information……

Name:

Email:

Phone:


More Info. Visit Website of Mr Kalyan Verma...

Booking Park Excursion Entry

To book a park excursion entry or entries to Kanha tiger reserve or Pench, Bandhavgarh and Panna national parks in Madhya Pradesh, an online booking should be made before hand in order to avoid running into a closed gate due to fixed carrying capacity as per new rules regarding number of vehicle entry allowed in the parks .

Park Entry Online Booking

The online booking page also leads to information on tariff and availability of excursions on given date in the national parks or tiger reserves.

Bookings at the portal above can be paid for by credit card. For cash payment one need to use service of authorized kiosks of the government. The kiosks are situated only in Madhya Pradesh at present. Find list of about three hundred kiosks on the portal.

Hotel owners will also be able to book excursions into the national parks using the online facility subject to conditions mentions on the portal.

MP Online Hotel Owners

In case of bookings made in advance the passengers in a vehicle have to give names, IDs for verification.

Park gate also provides advance booking. MP Online is ready to appoint more lodges as their kiosks.