Tiger Photography in India

With more than 3000 tigers in India and a good network of tiger reserves, the country is proving one of the best places to photograph big cats. In India wildlife photographers and filmmakers have a greater choice to film and photograph the big cats. With over 52 tiger reserves they can accomplish their mission with ease. 

Photography For Amateurs

For amateur filmmakers and photographers, a safari permit is enough. They can book safaris for morning and evening and shoot tigers as they chance upon. Many parks offer the facility of a full-day safari which though costly can bear rich fruits. In full-day safaris zone restrictions are not there and they can go anywhere. But all regular safari rules have to be followed. Besides the absence of zone restriction food has to be consumed at the interpretation centers or at places that are designated by park authorities. Even night safaris are open for the amateurs.

Professional Mission 

But for professionals who need to venture into the park, apart from basic regulations extra permission is required. Professionals need to intrude into the forests, be photographed at night, and often work on foot. These are outside the purview of regular visitors.

Hence for extra facilities permission has to be taken from MOEF and PCCF of the state. Documentaries cannot be made on regular safaris hence privileges are required. These arrangements have to be made through a local wildlife tour operator. The local tour operator makes all the arrangements before the venture commences. 

The professionals need local help and these are experienced guides, helpers, and amateur photographers. They know the terrain well and have a fair idea of the movement of tigers. They can assist in many other ways. This team is organized by the local or National tour operator as well. In India getting special permissions is time-consuming and costly.  Hence tour operators' assistance is indispensable.    

Professional filmmakers and photographers need to carry heavy and costly equipment and this has to be transported through customs and local transportation this could be time-consuming and costly. Nevertheless, the end result is rewarding. Thus all arrangements have to be made in advance for a tiger photo tour in India.

Sighting Wild Elephants in India

Wild elephants or Indian Wild Elephants are spread in many states of India. But, they are found mostly in North East, North West, East, and Southern India.  Badly persecuted for their tusks considered an aphrodisiac, and for ivory-based artifacts, their number had gone precariously low. The tusks were also considered as a money transfer from India to other countries where they could be sold to obtain cash.

Once widespread all over the forests of the country their population has reduced, and it stands a little over 30,000. Thanks, to the Project Elephant Program and the ban on hunting the population of the pachyderm, is increasing and they are being sighted in their previous habitats. For example, there have been sightings of herds in Bandhavgarh, Kanha, and neighboring forests. These animals were never heard of in these areas.

Project Elephant   

Launched in the year 1992 by the Ministry of Environment and Forests (MOEF) to provide financial and wildlife management support the program is doing well.

• It was launched as Central Government Scheme;
• Centrally Sponsored Scheme with following objective
• To protect elephants, their habitat, and corridors.
• To address issues of man-animal conflict.
• The welfare of captive elephants
• to promote not to harm elephants for their tusks.           

More elephant conservation initiatives are being carried out to protect the species in India.

Indian Vs African Elephant

Indian or Asiatic Elephant differs morphologically from African Elephant. The former prefers dense forests while the latter prefers savannah grasslands. Most of the biological features and social life is nearly similar.        

Distribution of elephants in India.

The population in the country stands between 27,785–31,368.

They are found in the Northwest Uttarakhand and Uttar Pradesh.

They are found in the Northeast – from the border of Nepal in Northern West Bengal, West Assam plains extending into eastern Arunachal Pradesh, the foothills of Nagaland, and Meghalaya. Small herds occur in Tripura, Mizoram, and Manipur

They are found In the central part – in Odisha, Jharkhand, Madhya Pradesh, and Chhattisgarh. The entry into Madhya Pradesh and Chattisgarh has been recent.

in the South, they are found in   Karnataka, Kerala Andhra Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu.

Elephant Tourism

Though nothing compared with tiger tourism in the country elephant tourism is not uncommon. Tourists on tiger safari often seek wild elephants at Corbett National Park and Periyar Tiger Reserve. Other places where the pachyderms are seen in the wild are:

• Singhbhum Elephant Reserve
• Mayurbhanj Elephant Reserve
• Garo Hills Elephant Reserve
• Anamudi Elephant Reserve
• Chirang-Ripu
• Mahanadi
• Thekkapakadu
• Punnatthurkotta, Guruvayoor
• Dubare

Most of these destinations are elephant reserves while many are camps that display the wild pachyderms. Although not as popular as tiger reserve still a large number of these giants can be seen in the country. Post January elephant sighting at Corbett increases. This attracts a lot of tourists to the reserve. Elephants descend to the foothills as vegetation becomes scarce and winter is at its peak. 

Leopards in Kanha

The focus on tigers pushes this magnificent cat into the background. In most of the Indian tiger reserves, leopards are not much sought after. They are treated as one the inhabitants of the ecosystem. Very little work is done on these animals except at places where man-eating menace exists.

Though much is required, the attention only to the tiger is not a good policy. Consequent studies and research on both will assist in the conservation of all big cats in the country. There are many common characteristic features in these carnivores, and discovering facts related to one will lead to helping the other. 

Kanha is a largely intact ecosystem that is home to leopards besides the Bengal Tiger. The tiger's presence puts the animal in a precarious situation - a kind of nightmarish existence. This is the main reason for the leopard to turn nocturnal and make an arboreal existence. In Sri Lanka where the tiger is absent, these cats exhibit diurnal behavior. 

In Kanha National Park the panther is more active in the periphery of the forests and the surrounding villages. Its range covers most of the buffer zone with some presence in the core area as well. Frequent incidences of livestock killing are those by leopards and surprisingly the animal has killed livestock bigger in size as was evident at Boda Chhapri Village.  But the core is noticeably dominated by the tigers. In a conflict with the tiger, the panther is killed and eaten without fail. Hence the spacing mechanism adopted by this animal is remarkable but nevertheless, many of these cats are hunted down by tigers. The extent is not known in absence of reliable data but I presume the figure would be on the higher side.    

The competition for food is one reason for this lack of tolerance among these tertiary carnivores. The leopard cannot kill animals larger than female sambar deer, it definitely avoids large-sized prey species. Its adaptability is more tenacious than that of the striped cat.  It can live on consuming small animals, birds, poultry, and livestock, besides the prey available in the forests. This animal can also survive in broken ecosystems or denuded forests with a little bit of day cover.

There are assumed to be around 70 leopards in Kanha Tiger Reserve in an area of 1940 sq km. But I believe that it is next to impossible to come to the correct conclusion since the animal moves in diverse habitats and is very elusive.  Extensive camera trapping can assist in this task besides keeping tabs on livestock predation and records of sightings. 

In Kanha Zone, a leopard was seen regularly last year near the Khatia Gate. One animal has been seen and photographed several times on link road 7.  This animal is rarely seen in the grasslands of the reserve since these are dominated by the much larger striped cousin. I have seen them near villages at night on Kanha Indri Road sulking in nullahs bushes in search of suitable livestock.   

The status of this animal is precarious all over with a lot of killing by man wherever it survives. The number of hides being confiscated from poachers is suggestive of very large numbers being killed in India. This is going to result in the complete extermination of the animal from a large part of its historical range. Man-animal conflict and urbanization of denuded forests add to the quick decrease in population.  

Tiger Safari: Rates Kanha & Bandhavgarh

From the coming season, the new vehicle entry rates will apply. The parks will open on 16th October as usual.

Kanha and Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve tourism zones have been changed and upgraded.

At Kanha, the Kanha Zone is notified as premium and its charges are:

Rs.1500 for Indians and Rs.3000 for foreigners. Besides this guide fees filming fee, etc will also apply.

Other zones are Mukki & Sarhi Gates.

At Bandhavgarh, the vehicle entry fee is Rs.2000 for Indians and Rs. 4000 for foreigners. This is for Tala Zone which is premium.  

Other Zones are Panpatha, Khitauli, and Magadhi Zones.

Jeep hire is extra for that contact manager of your accommodation in the tiger reserve.  

Access to zones may be from outside so leave in advance and be prepared to pay more for an extra ride to reach the gates.  

Each Wednesday evening safaris are closed, so schedule village/school tours for this day evening. 

In the notification by the forest department, no tariff is given for nonpremium zones. Visit MP Online  for more information. There is vehicle restriction inside the park hence book your gate entry in advance. This can be done at MP Online. 

Leopard Fights Back

The incident at Siliguri village in Darjeeling is one of the many warnings that the big cat is as threatened as the tiger. The leopard is in as precarious a condition as the tiger is. The animal was petrified in human surroundings and eventually died (killed). We have no solutions for man-animal conflicts. 

The mishandling is an eye-opener as to how the whole country faces a crisis. The administration and rulers of this country are enmeshed in attributes that help seek a way out rather than face the situation boldly. What were the policemen and forest guard doing there well fulfilling their duty? 

There was no solution from the top level for an incident that is a regular occurrence. The immobilization should have been as fast as possible and proper. The big cat was on defensive strayed perhaps by some mental aberration or hunger into human habitation.  A precious life could have been saved. Yes, big cats and all life forms constitute precious life. If there is any doubt please go back to Vedas.    

The human reaction to intrusion by other life forms will always be aggressive defense or offense - an action wherein the animal always suffers. The cats are on brink of extinction thanks to our selfish approach and greed. It has yet to be apparent that we should work in an ecosystem. The loss of other life forms does not create a loss among us. Somewhere down the line, we will realize, how dependent we are on others. Our coming generation will have no solutions for past misdeeds. They will only regret and curse.              

MP Increasing tigers

The last tiger census showed an increase in the tiger population. This was heartening but the increase was not impressive by any means. More the Madhya Pradesh Forest Minister was not happy with the state figures.

The tigers have been declining in numbers in MP. The decline is more because the census methods have been improved. They are no longer at the mercy of the whims and fantasies of the park authorities. The recounting exercise carried out by the state government showed a minor increase. But this was more an ego-boosting exercise rather than a serious conjecture of what is happening.   

Panna was the first shocker and the falling numbers in other tigers' reserves are suggestive of some major issues. What we should keep in mind is that the ground situation may have gone worse. Disturbance in and around the reserves and the incidence of poaching cannot be ruled out.

Hence a proactive corrective stance is needed more than the counting exercise. Tiger conservation is important if we wish to save this wonderful apex mammal. Much depends on how we perceive this importance and go all out to save the species. India still retains the largest population of tigers in the wild. Let us get the ball rolling fetch and upswing scenario rather than the prevailing downslide.     

Wild Images Galore

Male Tiger

Tiger cubs

Tiger

Tiger with kill

Sambar in Misty Morning

Peacock

It is amazing just when you start to think it is a professional job...from out of the blue a photo shooter arises. I came across these wonderful, some soulful images by Mr. Kamaljeet Hora of Raipur. He is by

Indian Roller

Crested Hawk Eagle

Bengal tiger cub

Lioness

Leopard

Brown Fish Owl

Tiger Walk

profession a businessman and not a wildlife photographer. But it seems, he excels in whatever he does, such is his enthusiasm and commitment. An image speaks a thousand words.

Elephants in Tiger Reserve

Shiva was touching eleven feet and weighed perhaps five tons whence it killed two people in Kanha. This was perhaps the first such tragic incident in the National Park. The elephant was in an aggressive state of musth whence its mahout was transferred to control wild elephants in Sarguja District.

Elephants play a major role in the tiger reserves of India. Ecologically they are destructive in reserves that are not natural elephant habitats. Bandhavgarh Gate is the best example of how these pachyderms have ravaged the forests. There is no historical record of these animals in the wilds of Madhya Pradesh. In such places, they should be fed more and should not be allowed to forage in the forests extensively.

Anyway, their role in tiger reserves is to help patrol and protect from poachers. They are the prime attraction during the safaris whence the parks are open. Tiger show - much criticized in the past- is the best method to show tourists the magnificent animal in the wild.

Elephants are captured in Eastern and Southern India using various methods. They are then sold to buyers and are trained by elephant riders or mahouts. This might be not legal now. The training starts right from a young age. At Bandhavgarh I have experienced a young male being trained by the mahout it is a grilling exercise but definitely not cruel. Incidentally, I was there whence a calf was born at the reserve. It was for the first time in the history of the tiger reserves that a birth had taken place in captivity.

Elephants in Central Indian tiger reserves are a prominent feature. In the tiger show, the tiger is traced by the elephants and mahouts and then cordoned off. The tourist then rides on the elephant back up to the spot and is brought back. It is a short ride but fulfills many a dream of sighting a tiger in the wild as well as sitting on the huge beast. The most interesting part is how the huge beast traverses through dense forests and engaged in active conversation with its rider.

Most of the preserves have six to eight tame elephants which provide yeomen services. The pachyderms though tame have a wild instinct in them forever. They are like family members of the mahout for lifelong. There is a strong bond between the animal and its rider. It is an intelligent animal and very useful.

Grasslands larger than life

The Meadows

Unique feature of the tiger reserves of Central India are the grasslands that lie interspersed between rugged mountains and enchanting valleys. Also known as boheras in Bandhavgarh and maidan in Kanha these are hub of activities in the ecosystem.

The grasslands or meadows are the center of attraction for man animals and birds alike. The tourist flock these meadows in order to see the tiger and the deer. Since the thick canopy obstructs wildlife sighting the tourist jeeps prefer to move around the grasslands in order to see the tigers.

Tigers love the tall grasses of the prairies and sulk in between to ambush prey. They love the cover of the tall grass and the shade. In Bandhavgarh tiger reserve the Boheras are marshy and have proven to be excellent hunting grounds for the tigers. The slush hinders fast movement of the deer and the big cats find it easy to pounce upon them.

In Kanha the meadows besides supporting the tigers are home to critically endangered Swamp Deer. This is the only hard ground Barasingha population left in the wild. The deer now survives in good enough numbers after it was brought back from brink of extinction. The swamp deer subsists only on certain species of grass and poses conservation challenge to park authorities.

The grasses are frequented not only by tigers and deer they are home to many species of birds and reptiles. With luck one can see the reticulated python or other snakes. Most often seen grass birds are plain prinia, jungle prinia, zitting cisticola, warblers, common stonechat, pipits and larks, francolins painted and grey, munias or avadavat, storks and many others.

In order to stalk prey tigers frequent these grassy maidans. Since the concentration of deer is very high hunting is much easier. In the open spaces movement is not hampered like in thick canopy. They are easily camouflaged in the dry grass and can hide easily. Hence spotting tigers in grasslands is not as easy as people presume.

The most popular grasslands in Bandhavgarh are Chur Bohera, Raj bohera, bathan and chakradhara. Similarly the Kanha meadow is most popular, preferred by animals and tourists alike. Others are Saunf meadow where Swamp Deer breed, Kisli meadow and Parsa tola to name a few.

Most of the grasslands are small in area whence compared with Dhikala Chuad in Corbett Tiger Reserve. The height is much less than elephant grass. Most of the grasslands in Central Indian Tiger Reserves in MP are edaphic. They were earlier settlements which have been trans located elsewhere. The vacated fields have been overtaken by local species of grass and secondary scrub.

The savannas are always under threat from fire and over grazing. Thankfully live stock is not allowed inside the core area and the park authorities are constantly guarding the habitats from fires. The predators maintain the right population of deer hence prevent overgrazing. A major challenge being faced by conservation team in Kanha emanates from the lendia tree. This tree is slowly encroaching into the grasslands and reducing them. The swamp deer depend entirely on these ecosystems hence to stop the encroachment or leave nature to take care of things is a difficult decision to be taken.

Besides habitats of many species in these National Parks the savannas are vital to the ecosystem. They constitute major support system to these diverse habitats and have tremendous water retention capacity.

Bison Translocation - New Dimension in Conservation

The recent ongoing trans location of Bison or Gaur from Kanha to Bandhavgarh TR accords a new dimension to wildlife conservation in India. Earlier the trans location of the Swamp Deer from Kanha to Bandhavgarh had failed miserably. It resulted in the death of all the Swamp Deer being trans located.

It was not only tragic but a great loss as well since the swamp deer or Hard Ground Barasingha is a highly endangered sub species found only in Kanha. The swamp deer were being translocated to Bandhavgarh a habitat which holds no historical record or evidence of swamp deer ever present there. But that was way back.

With induction of new technologies and technique the Bison trans location to Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve would be more successful. Nature conservation in India is in a piteous state in spite of the country making long strides in every field. Whatever is said, nature is accorded a low priority here.

The conservation impetus thrives due to few individuals, NGO and some dedicated and committed officials who go unsung. The required political will is not there though there are exceptions.

The trans location of Bison is going to be a major challenge since the stock being translocated is not familiar with the terrain. The Bison in India are local migratory species and the migration pattern is strongly ingrained in the genes. The only hope is that the population was once interconnected before habitat destruction took place. This would mean presence of genetic traits which will help the coarse grazer to migrate to suitable pockets as seasons change.

But the challenge will remain, the threat from foot and mouth disease, rinderpest is for real. Until unless proper inoculation of live stock in the buffers takes place the whole exercise will be futile. I strongly believe that the local extinction of this bovine was due disease. There is no palpable reason why the stock would migrate to another habitat leaving the present habitat which is well conserved.

Another plus point is that both the tiger reserves are similar in habitat or forest types, though topography may differ. Bandhavgarh was the last and only strong hold of Gaur North of Narmada River. If the success takes place than the tragic local extinction would fade into history.

Though prevention is better than cure no one minds re-establishment of locally rare species. This is the case with Panna and Sariska as well. Spreading of rare genetic stocks in suitable habitats augurs greater survival chance.

Alarms bells should sound in case of Gir Lions a population enclosed in one habitat. An epidemic like FPL can wipe the whole population. Donating a pride to Palpur Kuno would mean one step forward in conservation. This in case of highly isolated lion population and only sub species in the World - Asiatic Lion.

Less Seen Animals - Central Indian Tiger Reserves

The tiger reserves in Central India are a major focus of attention as far as tiger tourism is concerned. This comes through the high visibility of this extremely endangered animal in the country. Tiger chases in the parks have given a bad name to tourism by and large in these magnificent reserves.

Not surprisingly every one wishes to see the tiger. It is our beloved Earth's most coveted animal, charismatic to the bone and mystical. Irrespective of the conservation ethos of our ancient scriptures we have managed the reverse. Wild tiger sighting is an experience of a lifetime. First time or last you never come out of it.

The reserves of Central India or MP have a high density of tigers namely Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench. Besides they are intact ecosystems with amazing biodiversity. This is to be experienced in totality in order to enjoy nature. As interest in nature deepens a desire for a holistic experience of ecosystems is a natural precursor.

Every element of nature's wonderful creation excites and thrills. It gives meaning to our own existence on Earth. A lifetime is not enough to experience these pristine tiger havens in totality. But whatever more you experience is enough.

On tiger safaris, other animals seen in the forests and grasslands are Nilgai, swamp deer (Kanha), sambar, spotted deer, langur, wild boar, jackal, wild dog, bison, and oft barking deer. A leopard sighting is the thrill of a lifetime and so is that of the sloth bear.

Rarely seen are the mouse deer recently discovered at Kanha, four-horned deer - endemic species, Indian wolf - highly endangered, and hyena. It is most exciting to see the nightlife albeit night safaris in the park are not allowed. One can certainly go through on the common roads outside the park. Animals often seen on night rounds are leopards on the prowl, sloth bears, jungle cats, civet cats, porcupines, foxes, ratel, and mouse deer? some birds like night jars, large owls, and Eurasian thicknee. It is possible to see Hyenas and Wolves at nighttime wherever they survive.

The reptiles are shy and extremely nocturnal, most commonly seen are the monitor lizard, python, cobra, krait, viper, rat snake, keelbacks, and grass snakes. Many species of tortoise can be seen in ponds. The rivers in these tiger reserves do not hold mugger or gharial. They are found in Ken River Sanctuary near Panna National Park.

In India, wild safaris hold an element of surprise. Animals en masse are rarely seen. A dull day can turn into an electrifying moment in one go. Trekking skills help a lot but it is luck that dominates for one and all.

The tiger reserves are places for exciting birding in Madhya Pradesh for birders. More than two hundred fifty avian species can be checked and listed. These are ideal destinations for forest birding in India.

Wildlife Tourism - Changing Paradigm

The Central Indian tiger reserves are the most popular wildlife safari destinations in India. Incidentally, they have become the hub of tiger tourism. This has opened up an industry that is unique and unparalleled in Madhya Pradesh. 

People from all walks of life in the vicinity and far are being benefited due to the influx of a large number of tourists for tiger safaris. Tourism though a big money earner has its own burden to carry forth. But whence the heritage is in a perfect state of preservation and tourism is responsible, the benefits far outweigh the negatives. Nevertheless, the status of the tiger and wildlife in general in India is precariously threatened. Hence it is imperative to keep the pressure of tiger tourism at the lowest level - which is already being done in the tiger reserves as a gradual process. For some, the onus of animals being endangered and ecosystems being ravaged lies on eco-tourism. This is a gross misconception bordering on ignorance and perhaps prejudice. The proponent of such notions needs to redefine such notions taking into account a wider perspective. 

The impelling disaster is due to extensive deforestation, man-animal conflict, and organized poaching. Much needs to be done as regards these factors. In breeding and disease are the next big ones. I have been visiting Kanha and Bandhavgarh since the seventies whence tiger tourism was ready to take off. Subsequently, the number of tourists swelled fourfold and so did the wild animals. In this period the ecosystems peaked with the conservative measure in action. The tiger made a comeback in the parks, though persecution continued in nonprotected areas outside. 

The administration had a double task of managing wildlife, burgeoning tourist numbers, and accommodations. This was well done, the regulations in place did a fine job of containing tourism in the core zones. The recent changes in Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench are suggestive of this ongoing process of managing tourism. But the paranoia that exists vis a vis tiger status sometimes leads to ad hoc policies perhaps without consultation with the industry. More Info: Tiger Conservation Group Kanha In my personal opinion tiger tourism has played a crucial role in education and creating awareness of our wonderful wild heritage. This has propelled conservation in India and augured a new value system for the wilderness. 

Old hunting records suggest that wild animals were treated as pariahs, especially the carnivores. This is one of the prime reasons for the extermination of tigers, leopards, wild dogs, hyenas, wolf and so forth in many parts of India. This drastic perception has been removed amongst a large set of people who have visited these ecosystems. They have certainly voiced their opinions elsewhere. Visitation is a close encounter of the first kind...and the voice has gone far. Even those who have never been to tiger reserves have changed their outlook to positive. 

A more conciliatory approach is required as far as wildlife tourism in India is concerned. Wildlife safaris are a nondestructive way of appreciating nature close. The age-old concept of wildlife as an elite indulgence has to be done away with. The increasing cost of tiger tourism will have a limiting effect on the benefits that accrue. There should be special packages for school groups, NGOs, and the underprivileged such that message spreads far and wide. Eco-tourism encourages the empowerment of local communities and is profit-sharing, educative, and entertaining as well. Why not?

Wild Bovids: Indian Bison

Though not as popular as the tiger, Indian bison or gaur is an extremely majestic animal. The appearance is striking with a reach of five and a half feet to six feet and a weight of 700 to 1000 kg. The species is extremely muscular and shapely with white stockings...nature's striking adornment. The protruding dorsal ridge and dewlaps are typical to males who are glistening black (violet) in color. The fawn-colored females are smaller with inward horns and a less prominent dorsal ridge. The animal is the epitome of fierce strength, and looks fearful, though it is shy by nature.

Gaur belongs to the ox race and the name bison is a misnomer. It is a gregarious animal and as a coarse feeder, it has a penchant for floral elements on hillsides. It is a hill animal and is stressed out to descend up to the grasslands or meadows in Kanha and elsewhere in summer. The only species of Guar North of Narmada was at Bandhavgarh but the disease took its toll and none survive.

The largest population of Gaur (Bos gaurus) is found in the Melghat tiger reserve followed by Kanha National Park in Madhya Pradesh India. The animals live in herds of ten to forty and forage in grasslands at Kanha. Docile by nature they can ferociously defend their calves from charging tigers. Mostly silent the calls are a series of gutturals and woofs.

The big cat is their only predator and hunts the young ones and often adults. But tiger predation is not to a threatening extent...diseases are. The species is susceptible to rinderpest and foot and mouth disease. An epidemic in 1976 at Kanha tiger reserve took a heavy toll on this majestic bovine. The animals are very shy and like swamp deer cannot survive along with man.

Not much is known about the species, but they are hardy animals, true to their order, and survive in many National Parks in India. Their closest relative is the Banteng found in Eastern India.

The disease carriers are the livestock in the villages nearby the park. As a rule, the livestock has to be inoculated against such disease. The animals in protected areas are not in danger but those outside are unheard of leaving Kanha and Pench.

The herd consists of young ones and females and is led by an old female. The adult males take over the herd during breeding and then stay separate in groups of 2 or 3 or even solitary. The animal has a crucial role in the food chain and in preserving the ecosystem of dense forests.

Tigers in the grasslands

Large extensive edaphic grasslands are typical to many of our tiger reserves. Earlier inhabited by local tribesmen these precious habitats were vacated for the subsistence of wild species to whom the habitat belonged for eons. The grasslands are prime habitats for deer species, especially for animals like the swamp deer. Swamp deer survive solely on marshy grasslands in India. The swamp deer or Barasingha at Kanha is an exception as it has adapted to an existence on hard ground. The grassy meadows are at the fulcrum of activities in our tiger reserves.

Most of the prey and predator saga unfolds here - the grassland is a vital element of the food chain. Bandhavgarh is a prime example of a grassland ecosystem interspersed with dense Sal forests. Many of the grasslands inhabited by tribesmen have been vacated. Inundated by rivulets, the wet marshy grasslands are preferred hunting grounds for the majestic tigers. Bandhavgarh though small is a prolific breeding ground for Bengal tigers. The undulating terrain, inaccessibility, dense canopy, and large prey base is the reason. The survival rate of the cubs is very high in this picturesque animal kingdom. The tall grass act as effective camouflage and hence allows the tigers to creep close to the prey before striking. 

Unlike lions, tigers cannot run for a long distance hence they hunt by ambush. The marshy grasslands are effective killing grounds and the big cats love them. They are excellent for raring cubs in absolute safety and shelter. The grassland ecosystem is frequented by a large number of herbivores and hence are ideal prey base. The most powerful of the tiger's reign over these habitats. The meadows are also frequented by territorial females and young males. The struggle for survival means the fittest should exist. Prime grasslands in BTR are Chur Behera, Raj Behera, Chakradhara, Bathan, Sehra, and Mahman. High fecundity, low mortality, and abundant prey make the preserve an ideal tiger habitat with the highest density. For this reason, tiger sightings in the wild are very high. The jungle roads intersect prime tiger habitats in order to accord high visibility to these magical cats. The tourism infrastructure is well-developed. 

A large number of wildlife resorts are available for stay in Bandhavgarh. One can avail of the best packages for accommodation. For safari, jeeps can be hired at Tala village or arranged by the hotels. The tiger reserve is well protected though danger looms all over. Bandhavgarh nature preserve in India is the best place to see tigers in the wild. Every year thousands from all over the World visit the park.

Birds of Kanha

Kanha Forest though popular for tiger safaris is an excellent bird habitat. Though a diverse habitat by all means it lacks large water bodies. The wetlands basically comprise Sondhar and Bisanpura and a medium-sized tank at Kanha Meadow called Shravan Taal. There are many small shallow lakes beside the rivers Banjar and Halon and their tributaries. The water bodies are the habitat of quite a number of aquatic birds but are not as impressive as in other birding habitats.

The National Park is an excellent habitat for forest birds as well as some grassland birds. The surveys conducted by me and many naturalists checklist an exciting number of resident and migratory birds.

The most popular birds of Kanha are those that are easily seen. Among them are Grey Headed Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet, Racket Tailed Drongo, Golden and Black Headed Oriole, Shama, Blackrumped Flameback, Grey Francolin, Painted Francolin, Northern Pintail, Lesser Whistling Teal, Common Teal, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Grey Hornbill, Alexandrine Parakeet, Red Billed Malkoha, Plum Headed Parakeet, Rose Ringed Parakeet, Crested Hawk Eagle, Crested Serpent Eagle, Grey Headed Fishing Eagle,White Eyed Buzzard, Oriental honey Buzzard, Shikra, Osprey, White Backed Vulture, King Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Brown Fish Owl, tawny Fish Owl, Mottled Fish Owl, Jungle Owlet, Spotted Owlet, Indian Scimitar Babbler, Paradise Flycatcher, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Open Billed Stork, Painted Stork, Woolly Necked Stork, Black Ibis, White Ibis, Great Cormorant, Egrets, Orange Headed Ground Thrush, Common Iora, Brown Cheeked Fulvetta, Spangled Drongo, White Bellied Drongo, Ashy Drongo, Black Drongo, Gold Mantled Chloropsis, Jerdon’s Leaf Bird, Common Wood Shrike, Large Cuckoo Shrike, Black Headed Cuckoo Shrike, Oriental Turtle Dove, Red Collared Dove, Emerald Dove, Green Footed Pigeon, Laughing Dove, Spotted Dove, Eurasian Ring Dove, Black Naped Monarch, Verditor Flycatcher, Blue Capped Rock Thrush, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Red Throated Flycatcher, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, Grey Headed Canary Flycatcher, Little Minivet, Black redstart, Rosy Starling, Jungle Myna, Chestnut Bellied Nuthatch, Velvet Fronted Nuthatch, Great Tit, Black Lored Tit, Wire Tailed Swallow, Plain Martin, Barn Swallow, Red Rumped Swallow, Streak Throated Swallow, Grey Breasted Prinia, Crested Tree Swift, Plain Prinia, Hume’s Warbler, Lesser White Throat, Common Chiff Chaff, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, Sulphur Bellied Warbler, Tawny Bellied Babbler, Yellow Eyed Babbler, Purple Swamphen, Black and White Ibis, Peacock, red Jungle Fowl, and many more birds.

The birds check listed includes residents and winter migrants. There are more than two hundred and fifty avian species in the Kanha Nature Preserve in the state of Madhya Pradesh.

The best birding season is winter from Mid October to March. After March migrants depart from the tiger reserve. Kanha offers the best tiger sightings and wildlife watching. Like in Bandhavgarh preserve one can enjoy birding as well as tiger safaris at Kanha. Most of the birds can be sighted on tiger safaris in the park while trekking in the buffer zone will yield more sightings.

Birding in Central India is becoming very popular as the concept of forest birding dawns upon tourists. The added fun of enjoying the preserves is having an all-encompassing outlook. Bird watching adds to your experience at Central Indian Parks. Seek a good naturalist.

Bandhavgarh Personified

The jungles of India intrigue and fascinate humans. They exude an aura of mystery and mystical charm and unparalleled natural beauty. The animal kingdoms in India for thousands of years have bedazzled humans and attracted them to admire, explore study, and record aspects of nature's masterpiece. Throughout annals of history animals and birds and forests find mentioned by kings, court historians, writers, poets, ascetics, and local communities.
Photos By. Mr.Kamaljeet Hora

Bandhavgarh jungle was once contiguous with Central India Highlands and Vindhyan Ranges. It is now more or less fragmented and isolated, connected perhaps with Kanha and Achanakmar with nonviable badly deforested corridors.

Small and confined, the jungles of Bandhavgarh are the epitome of exceptional beauty and exude an aura of mystique. The spectacular esoteric, fairy tale settings and element of mystery remain. The terrain is unique in steep rocky hills, marshy grasslands, and a dense canopy of tropical moist forests. In between the forested slopes and marshy glens traverse small rivers - lifelines of the ecosystem. The enigmatic landscape heightens the perception of depth, stirs imagination, and peppers mind and body.

The thrill of exploring mysterious jungle life is heightened by equally mysterious elusive animals that exude charisma, fear, and awe. The tiger rules supreme, King personified and embellished in myths, arts, literature, and cultures all over the World.

Bandhavgarh in its niche habitats, unfathomable caves amidst rocky crevices, towering hillocks,  and sun-baked plateaus nourishes remains of ancient kingdoms. Of Kings and Queens who ruled in glorious times and were eventually vanquished by conquerors. The ruins lie scattered unfolding saga of human civilizations that sought shelter in the unreachable and secure womb of these dense forests.

Bandhavgarh is a fascinating blend of ancient history and equally fascinating jungle life. The pristine forests, prehistoric petrographic and man-made caves, zoomorphic idols, ancient temples, stables, reservoirs, and a magnificent fort stand testimony to ancient civilizations that coexisted with nature.

The park is the best place to watch tigers in the wild. In a small area of 400 plus sq. km, a large population of Bengal tigers survives. The tigers of Bandhavgarh have been epitomized and made eternal by filmmakers, wildlife photographers, and storytellers alike. Be it the legendary Badka, Sita, or awesome Charger all have been objects of sustained documentation and study. The stars of this wildlife resort have propelled it to International fame and mention. Visited by a large number of inbound and Indian tourists the park invites more and more visitors every year. One can see a large cross-section of the park on safaris and enjoy big games and birding. The resort offers all king of hotel accommodations from super luxurious to budget.

The core focus in Bandhavgarh National Park in MP has always been on tigers due to high visibility and fecundity. On safari besides tigers and leopards, one can see many deer species, lesser carnivores, and small often nocturnal mammals. Bird life at Bandhavgarh is interesting and invites many birdwatchers to the preserve. The impressive biodiversity is best experienced during a long stay and repeated visits.

The park is accessible from Jabalpur by road (4 hrs +) which is connected by flight service with New Delhi. Utkal Express makes a short stop at Umaria rail head about 32 km from the tiger preserve. From Khajuraho, BTR is a 6 to 7 hours drive.

Tourism at Bandhavgarh

Well known for its tigers and wildlife safaris Bandhavgarh is the most picturesque resort in the World. Not as large as Kanha or Pench it is quintessentially a tiger reserve. The density of tigers is the highest here. It is the topography that supports tigers the best. The topography comprises steep hills and hillocks with tableland at the top. The diversity of life forms is worth observing.

In between are deep glens with forested slopes, rivers, and grasslands. The terrain does not permit human movement in many places. There are many inaccessible areas some of which are motorable but tourists rarely go there. The inaccessibility has prevented human encroachment. This has been one of the reasons for the eventual survival of the tigers at Bandhavgarh. The prey base is excellent and the marshy grasslands are ideal hunting grounds for dominant tigers.

Like Kanha, the park offers the best chance to see the tiger in the wild on a jeep safari. The tourism zone comprises marshy grasslands where tigers abound. They can be seen in broad daylight by chance. The dense canopy of the forested regions offers little chance to see the tiger since there is plenty of covers.

The tigers are everywhere even near the resorts in Bandhavgarh National Park. They can be seen with luck on road to Tala and near some villages. There are incidences of man-animal conflict and the animal is the sufferer. There are many villages yet to be relocated from within the park.

Tiger Safari

Tiger safari is conducted in the core zone of the park. There are two safaris in the jungle early morning and late evening. There are now two entrance gates but the Tala Gate is very popular. The road runs parallel to the Charanganga River offering a good chance to sight the big cat, especially in summer. There is a split at some juncture one jungle road leads to Chur Bohera meadow. This is again a good spot to see the tigers in the wild. Wildlife safaris in Bandhavgarh Jungle would now be route based for individual vehicles. This is good and prevents the concentration of vehicles in one spot.

One can score Mahaman and Raj Bohera for some exciting moments. Waiting patiently at Gopal Talao and other water bodies could fetch some exciting mammal sightings including the tiger. On jeep, safari silence is the rule and keen eyes are a necessity. This is essential to catch sight of wild animals or hear telltale signs of their presence. Pug mark trekking is also good but by the time you have come across the mark, the tiger has already slithered away.

Having a holistic experience is an essential way of holidaying at tiger reserves and National Parks in India. The jungle has so much to offer in terms of wildlife sightings, birding, and soothing calm in a pristine environment.

Wildlife & Tourism

Other animals to be seen at Bandhavgarh are Leopard, Sambar Deer, Spotted Deer, Wild Dog, Barking Deer, Sloth Bear, Four Horned Deer, Langurs, Wild Boar, Jungle Cat, Jackal, Fox, and Rhesus Macaque. A night safari outside the park could yield small mammals, civet cats, ratel, and porcupines. Night safaris are not allowed inside the preserve. Pythons and other reptiles are seen with luck.

Nilgai is often seen at Bathan but Hyenas and Indian Wolf are scared... I have never seen them at the scrub outside the park. The nature preserve offers the finest birding opportunity for forest birds and often some wetland birds.

Places of interest are the ancient Bandhavgarh Fort, temples, stables, Sesh Shaiyya, man-made caves with ancient Brahmi script, and zoomorphic avatars of Lord Vishnu.

The tourism infrastructure is well set in the reserve. The safaris are regulated by the forest department. It is a must to hire a park guide on safaris. At the gates, the fee is charged on a per-vehicle basis and a separate fee has to be paid for filming equipment - cameras, videos, and movie cameras. There is a wildlife interpretation center at Tala Gate. Tala village is a small shopping center and eatables are available.

The jeeps are available for hire most of the hotels in Bandhavgarh arrange jeep safaris. Hence those on the jungle plan benefit a lot. There are many hotels, wildlife resorts, and lodges outside the preserve. The rates are for all budgets - super luxury to budget accommodation.

Season

The park opens in October and closes in June end. All time is a good time to holiday at this reserve but avoid the holiday season especially major festivals.

The winters are very cold hence warm clothing, hand gloves, and headgear is a must. Summer is hot...not for those who cannot bear the heat.

How to Reach

The park can be reached by 5 hrs drive from Jabalpur by road and rail (Umaria). Jabalpur is connected by air to New Delhi. Overnight train from New Delhi - Utkal Express reaches Umaria in the morning. This railhead is about 32 km from the park gate.

Plan your safaris well and enjoy the most exciting heart throbbing wildlife holiday ever.

Swamp Deer at Kanha

The park management at Kanha National Park swells with pride whence the swamp deer comes into the picture. The swamp deer or Hard Ground Barasingha is a race found only at Kanha in MP, India. The taxonomic classification is Cervus duavcelli branderi. Named after Dunbar Brander who first discovered the fact.

The difference lies in the hoof which has been modified into adapting to the hard ground. The hoof is not spread out or splayed unlike other species of deer. The swampy grounds in Kanha are not extensive hence the modification. This red deer species is one of the most charismatic animals along with the tiger.

The deer is primarily dependent upon certain species of grass and rarely goes for coarse feed. The habitat is the grasslands of Kanha, mainly the Saunf meadow where they breed, Bisanpura and Saunder. They are slowly occupying other grasslands as well. In summer large number of swamp deer can be seen around Kanha meadow. In instances, I have seen the deer entering the thick canopy.

The fully grown stag weighs approximately 180 kg and is smaller in dimension than the sambar deer. The females are smaller and light brown in color. Like all deer species, they are devoid of horns. The twelve tines have accorded it the name Barasingha (Bara=12, singha=horns). But the horns do not contain twelve tines always and the number can be less or up to 14 on average. The reddish-brown fur and shapely antlers make this a charismatic mammal.

The male swamp deer live in schools whence young but take over a female herd whence fully grown and out to mate. The mating takes place in the winter months of November and December whence grown-up male adorn their antlers with a long stripe of grass and mud. The mating calls reverberate throughout the valley. The stags indulge in power play with each other to mate with a doe in estrous. The territorial fights are rarely injurious, as much before the strength is decided. This is nature's way of ensuring the best gene transfer with minimal damage.

The gestation period is around six months and usually, a single fawn is born. The females care for the young. The fawn mortality is due to carnivores like the tiger, leopard, jackal, wild dog, and python and at times due to disease. In order to conserve the species a large mesh wire enclosure has been created in the park. This prevents predation from carnivores and reptiles. The reptiles were physically removed. The enclosure reduces the chances of infectious disease.

This is the saga of success, whence from sixty-plus animals the number has grown to over 300 heads. Thanks to George Schaller and other researchers this fact came to light and the enclosure was created. The number has stabilized at over three hundred and efforts are being made to increase the population.

The pride of Kanha National Park in MP is the main tourist attraction during the tiger safaris. With greater conservation efforts and advanced research, the population of this once gregarious deer should increase.

The increase in the population of the hard-ground Barasingha is essential if the animal has to be saved from extinction. The gregarious deer once thrived in large numbers in suitable habits around Kanha park. Now confined to the core this animal is highly susceptible to foot and mouth disease and rinderpest. The carriers are the livestock that occupies the buffer zone in very large numbers. Timely inoculation of the livestock is mandatory to prevent disease influx amongst the wild species.

Bandhavgarh ecosystem

Bandhavgarh is a moist deciduous tropical forest type. It is situated in the Vindhya Range which lies in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. The forest flora comprises Sal (Shorea Robusta) as the dominant species with Bamboo (Dendrocalamus strictus) on slopes of hills. The other tree elements comprise Saj, Dhawa, Bhilma, Tendu, Bel, Harra, Bija, Lyndia, Arjun, Mahua, Pipal, Banyan, Kosum, Palas, Salai, Gunjan, Char, Jamun, Aonla, Pakur, Kulu, Amaltas and many more. The woody climbers, herbs, and shrubs constitute the understory.

The grasslands of Bandhavgarh are marshily inundated by Charanganga, Johilla, and Umrar rivers. The marshy grasslands are ideal grounds for hunting Bengal tigers. Most of the grasslands at Bandhavgarh are edaphic but support the herbivores like spotted deer and sambar. There is no historical record of Swamp deer at Bandhavgarh National Park. The only coarse grazer Indian bison or gaur has lost ground here.

The terrain is undulating and comprises steep rocky cliffs many with forested slopes. The valleys that hold marshy grasslands, forest, and crisscrossing rivulets are prime habitats of the herbivores and carnivores follow them here.

There are thirty-two hillocks of which Bandhavgarh Hill is the highest. This is where the Fort is situated alongside Laxman Temple. On the way to the hill is Sesh Shaiiya a fairy pool with reclining Vishnu carved out of rock. On the way up there are many zoomorphic forms of Lord Vishnu carved out of the rocks. The hill expresses solitude and an esoteric charm difficult to behold. Very few tourists visit this place.

Of the grasslands called bahera, Chakradhara and Chur Bahera are famous for tiger safaris in Bandhavgarh. It is here that lot many tiger sightings take place. The Raj Bahera perhaps the largest was home to the gaurs and herds of deer and wild boar. I have experienced a few tiger sightings here. Other interesting places are Shera Dadra, Mahaman, Bathan, Ghoda Daman, and Andheri Jhiriya.

There are many water bodies, small lakes, ponds, water holes, and small streams that form the life support system of the park. Besides one can spot some water birds as well. The preserve is rich in bird life and can be constituted as a major birding spot for forest birds.

The tiger sits at the apex of the food chain and hence is the keystone species being a tertiary carnivore. The leopards and wild dogs are at the top rung of the food chain a degree less than the tigers. The consumers comprise mainly spotted deer, sambar, barking deer, and four-horned deer. The Nilgai keeps open areas of the park on the exterior of Bathan and elsewhere. The chinkara has not been seen in my numerous visits since last decade. The nocturnal animals are less seen as night safaris are not allowed in the park. Sloth bears, foxes, ratel, porcupines, civet cats, flying squirrels, and the rest can be seen on the night drives on the periphery of public roads. Jackals, mongooses, and jungle cats are diurnal. Flash and spotlights are not allowed. Hyenas and Indian wolves are less seen and their status is unknown. The sighting of the caracal is not confirmed. Mouse deer recently discovered in Kanha wildlife preserve is not check listed here.

The reptiles common are grass snakes, pythons, cobras, krait, vipers, rat snakes, keelbacks, tree snakes, and many more are less seen perhaps more apparent during the monsoons whence the preserve is closed. Monitor lizards and flying lizards are present here.

The insect life in thousands is yet to be discovered with butterflies being the most exciting elements. Signature spiders and other species are widespread while moths can be sighted here and there.

The producers are indescribable...perhaps a botanist would do a better job. But the floral diversity is as striking as the fauna is. From microorganisms to algae and fungi and exotic plants such as Sundew (Drossera indica) The park is limited by its canopy spread and the designated area by Project Tiger holds little meaning. The support systems are all around and habitats outside park confines are as important.

Bandhavgarh forests were earlier favored hunting grounds for Maharajas of Rewa. The intact ecosystem as of today is perhaps a result of the zealous preservation of the forests for their sport. After Independence Bandhavgarh Park was declared a tiger reserve. The project initiated by the government of India is to conserve tiger habitats and its tigers. The park has shown excellent response to conservation efforts. The tigers and other wildlife flourish with gusto.

The park has the highest density of tigers in India and hence is the best place to see tigers in the wild. Though not absolutely safe from poachers and wood smugglers the inaccessible hilly regions perhaps are a boon to wildlife here.

Wildlife in Bandhavgarh & Kanha Buffer

The National Parks in Madhya Pradesh and elsewhere in India are usually divided into two zones. The main sanctum sanctorum is referred to as the core zone while the outer forest cover is called the buffer zone. The sum total of the area of the two zones is the area of the park.

The core zone is devoid of any human settlement sans a research center, huts of the forest-beat guards, and the director's bungalow. The core can have government rest houses usually meant for VIPs and MPT hotels. The core zone is reserved for tiger tourism and wildlife safaris.

The buffer zone has human habitation in nonforest land and hotels in nontribal land. Most of the hotels in Bandhavgarh are situated in the buffer zone. I think there is now legislation in place which prohibits hotel construction in areas within some distance from the National Parks.

The buffer zone acts as a barrier to human activities and illegal intrusion in the park. Practically the buffer zone has as much of a dense canopy as the core zone. In the case of Bandhavgarh and Kanha, the buffer zone is devoid of long stretches of grasslands or meadows.

Leaving the grassland dwelling species as the Hard Ground Barasingha all mammals in the core zone inhabit the buffer as well. Some species as the Blue Bull, Indian Wolf, and Hyena prefer open stretches of fallow land and scrub forest. The status of these animals is in peril due intrusion of civilization and expanding agriculture.

It is difficult to see these animals in the park buffer and the Indian wolf is severely persecuted due to myth and fear. The genesis of man-animal conflict lies in the buffer zone which is subjected to grazing pressure from the livestock of enormous magnitude.

The carnivores at times hunt on the livestock creating ill will amongst the villagers who in turn at time poison the remaining kill. For leopards and tigers who roam in the buffers, livestock is easy prey and the temptation to kill is overwhelming. Though as in Bandhavgarh & Kanha the prey base is sufficient in the buffer zone. The intrusion by deer in the agriculture fields on the periphery is another reason for man-animal conflict. The irony is that we have intruded into their habitat, not the animals. The burgeoning population and increasing dependence on agriculture is the main reason.

The spotted deer come very close to human habitation in the buffer zone at the night but the Bison in the case of Kanha is shy. Small deer like the Barking deer and the Four-horned deer are shy as well. The Chinkara which was diurnal in nature and frequented open lands is not being seen anymore in wild abundance as before. This could be due to poaching as has happened elsewhere. Nilgai or Blue Bulls are most abundant as they are not killed.

The buffer zone supports varied small mammals most of which are nocturnal. On a night safari, one can see civet cats, jungle cats, porcupines, ratel, and reptiles. The leopard inhabits the buffer zone on regular basis as the pressure from the tigers pushes them towards the outer areas. This animal is at ease with the ways of the humans and frequents human habitation boldly at times relying on livestock, stray dogs, and even poultry.

Bird life in the buffers is amazing and as much in number as in the core zones. Some niche habitat birds like the Malabar pied Hornbill and the Shama may not be seen in the buffer with ease. On a birding trip, one can nevertheless spot a large number of bird species including migrants in the winter.

Though night safaris in the park are not allowed one can move on the common roads at night. Flash and searchlights are not permitted but one can see a lot by the jeep lights. Some hotels in Bandhavgarh & Kanha organize night safaris. They follow the guidelines for ethical night safaris which do not disturb wildlife. Such safaris are only for tourists using the hotel accommodation.

It is safe to go on a night safari keeping strictly to the jeep and not alighting from it. One cannot venture into the park confines and hence has to keep to the common roads. An early night safari starting in the evening and ending by dinner time is better. Although human traffic is high at day time it eases as evening draws on. The shy animals then emerge from their retreat and can be spotted.

There are some parks in India where night safaris are conducted in an organized manner. for the tourists. This is a very good way to observe nocturnal animals in their natural habitat. It could also perhaps reduce pressure in the park by curbing tiger safari rides.