Tiger Safari More Expensive

Though I am not citing a confirmed report, it is obvious that rates will go up.  I have heard from a hotelier in Bandhavgarh about the increase in gate fees in all Central Indian Tiger Reserves. For a long time, the administration was intent on increasing gate fees and all related fees. How much increase there is yet to be seen by the author.  

This is necessary as the cost has gone up as they are bound to. Even the jeep safari rates have gone up which is understood. The rates of petrol affect the transportation cost all over India hence the tiger reserve. 

Will this impact tourism in our tiger reserves?

Well yes and no!

The rich will continue to come here and enjoy their wildlife holidays in larger numbers. The tigers and their habitat receive tremendous publicity in wildlife magazines and on TV. This diverts more and more people towards tiger tourism in India.

But the increasing cost of the tours will certainly affect the middle class and those below. The major impact will be on the hotels and resorts since not all cater to upscale tourists.  Most of the accommodation will be stressed.

The negative aspect is that nature should be witnessed by a wide spectrum of society. It is quite understood that visitors begin to understand nature close and develop a more practical approach towards it and its conservation. A lot of Indian tourists who visit these preserves on a budget are going to be deprived of this eye-opening experience and miss out on this amazing inheritance.   This applies to budget travelers from foreign soils as well. The negative impact of increased safari costs will make tiger tourism appear to be a prerogative of the wealthy. This will certainly create antipathy toward these parks among the have not’s.    

For school-going children a park visit is a learning experience and is vital for them. These very kids will grow up with a positive attitude towards the environment and all other life forms.    

Some way has to be found out in order to invite less privileged people sans some privileges. Another answer is to open up more wildlife sanctuaries for tourism with proper infrastructure development. But are we very good at finding solutions to problems, take the case of tiger conservation in India?

Hunting Tigers

The most efficient hunting species became the most hunted. Ironically the animal lost since he stood no match for the hunting prowess of man a superior species?? Since the early days, tiger hunting was a regular activity. Prehistoric man could have killed the tiger due to rivalry or for food. 

As human civilization progressed hunting became more advanced with metal weapons, snares, traps, spears, bows and arrows, and whatnot. Gradually guns came into the picture, and this was catastrophic for forests all over the World. With this weaponry, it was easy to kill tigers as well as other species. Guns wreaked havoc on wildlife and they lost a lot of ground. 

Tiger hunting in the later period was not just happening as it is an elusive animal. The Shikaris or hunters deployed varied methods in order to bring down this magnificent beast. The Maharajahs and British Aristocrats hunted tigers on elephant backs. They also resorted to Haka where a large number of drummers and noise makers exposed the big cat. The commotion brought out the cat from its hiding and was easily killed by waiting hunters. Another method deployed was baiting. A goat or a buffalo calf was tied to a tree in an area frequented by big cats. A machine or hideout on the tree top was then built for the hunters so that they could wait for the tiger to arrive. The Baiga tribe of Madhya Pradesh would hang a tiger's kill midway on a horizontal pole. Difficult to grasp in order to reach the kill the animal would often fall on sharpened bamboo spikes. He would be injured seriously or die instantly.

For as little as fifty rupees one could get a license to shoot a tiger in a forest block in India. All these methods succeeded in decimating the tiger and leopard populations in alarming proportions.  

Hunting is different from poaching. Since the legislation in 1971 hunting, in any wildlife form is prohibited in India. It is banned as a sport though illegal hunting does go on here and there. The global wildlife trade increased to dangerous levels of demand for tiger bones in Chinese medicine and exotic pet lovers who keep wild animals, butterflies, and birds in their homes. Thousands perhaps millions of birds and butterflies are being caged in order to fulfill a sickening desire for a wild pet or stuffed specimens at home.

Poaching is more deadly it is the gruesome face of merciless hunters and traders who would do anything for money. They resort to the utmost cruel methods of killing big cats. Traps, snares, poison, guns, and spears all are painkillers. Most of the poachers like Bel Pardhis of Madhya Pradesh are hunter-gatherers and hence experts in the job.    

Though it is illegal to kill tigers in India many instances have occurred right under the administration's nose. Panna and Sariska are an example. Poaching could be occurring still in reserves where patrolling and surveillance are weak. Man-animal conflict is another big problem especially when cattle lifting happens. The animal faces the ire of the locals and the prey is poisoned. The death of tigers and leopards is very painful and torturous in such circumstances.

We can contribute by discouraging medicine or cosmetics made of animal parts. We should shun all those who keep exotic animals as pets without conservation cause.

Bandhavgarh Then & Now

I saw my first male tiger in Bandhavgarh National Park in the seventies. The place was called Kill Khunta, since bait was usually tied there to attract tigers. The baiting practice was thankfully stopped but the tigers do not go hungry at all. In that dusky twilight, I could see one of nature's marvelous creations. The awe and admiration have never ceased since.

Back from the brink of disaster, the little paradise was not throbbing with tigers as conservation practice had just been put in place. The aftermath of reckless hunting had come to a stop and recovery was on the way. Though isolated and fragmented, the reserve retained its glorious ancient past and amazing Sal forests.

There were few visitors, and the accommodation was limited to the Maharani's Kothi for the privileged and the Forest/PWD R.H - rest house.

Eventually, MPTDC stepped in and established the White Tiger Lodge. Then more tourists started to arrive with propaganda so created. The tourism infrastructure had been put in place with a number of elephants for rides. The jungle roads were being maintained. This was the hunting reserve of the erstwhile Maharajas of Rewa. It was the largest Kingdom in India during the post-independence period.

The discovery of white tigers in the adjacent forests had already opened the floodgates of popularity. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve is situated in the Central Indian State of Madhya Pradesh. It is one of the finest places to see the tiger in the wild. The preserve is one of the most picturesque destinations - a little tiger haven tucked away in the deep recess of India's wild heartland. Under the project tiger, the area covered is about 1100 sq. km including the neighboring Pan Patha Wildlife Sanctuary. The core now constitutes 600 plus sq. km as against 145 or so earlier.

On our earlier visits, we could count around 60 plus heads of gaur or Indian Bison. Gradually we saw the numbers dwindle till the end came somewhere in the nineties. This was a major blow to the habitat, the loss of a coarse grazer was irreparable. Rinderpest & FPL was the scourge carried by maddening numbers of livestock in the periphery. Though some gaur has been relocated from Kanha recently, we have to wait for success.

It was obvious from the sightings that the prey base was increasing. The sightings also confirmed that big cats in the park were on the increase. In a few years, the reserve was a conservation success - it still is.

Another noticeable fact was the increasing number of tourists as well as the hotel resorts. The park became the number one tourist draw thanks to a high density of tigers. The core area of the park is the finest habitat for cats. Due to the slush and grass in swampy marshy areas hunting was easy.

The village relocation had taken place from within the core and some were due which eventually did not happen - Kalwa & Magdi. The edaphic grasslands left by the tribal communities inside were overtaken by the prey base. This was like bounty from heaven since the grass was much-wanted fodder for the deer and the bison.

Ruins

The remains of ancient civilizations added luster to the splendorous jungle resort. The ancient man-made caves still exist with petroglyphs and Brahmi script on the walls. The forests experienced many warring civilizations throughout, as history unfolded. The dynasties left their marks on the ruins which are now ruled thankfully by the big cats. The place since evolution belonged to the wild denizens later intruded on by humans.

The ancient ruins add an esoteric touch to the wildlife haven. Sesh Shaiyya on the way to Bandhavgarh Hillock is right out of the fairy tale. Its pristine surroundings and springs are in reality best described as fairy tale settings. The reclining statue of Lord Vishnu beside the pond makes it a place of religious importance for the locals.

On the way up are a number of zoomorphic statues of Lord Visnu some towering. Matsya Avatar - Varah Avatar and so on. The Laxman Temple sits atop the hill facing the beautiful grasslands valleys and neighboring mountains. Picturesque indeed! The Bandhavgarh Hill is steep and about 800m MSL. the hillock are an ideal breeding ground for Long Billed Vulture.

Bandhavgarh Fort at the top lies in ruins arch, a man-made reservoir, statues, and temple remains are littered all over. The remains boast of exquisite and colorful sculptural practice & art of ancient India. They are an archeological find dating back two thousand years in the recess of this old country.

The plateau is extensive and gives one an eerie feeling a spread of ruined civilization, tall grasslands, and a haunting specter of open spaces, mystical and esoteric as of the pristine wild country. The alarm cry or the tiger roar can be unnerving as I have experienced often.

Priest & Tiger

The Old Brahmin Pujari was a legendary figure. He walked about 11 km to the Laxman Temple, under the care of his family, since the Maharajas were ordained. He must have been the most familiar figure for the tigers that walked aside from him. He once told me that his meetings with tigers were often and it was you go your way and I go my way affair, strictly. He died a natural death and I believe his son has taken over.

Hills Glens & Rivers

Mahaman, Chur Bohera, Raj Bohera, Bathan are well-preserved grasslands. Their rivers crisscross Johilla, Charanganga, and Umrar. Must-visit for tiger sightings and landscape are Badi Gufa, Ghoda Damen, 10 No.GUFA and Andheri Jhiriya. The terrain is torturous and at places very steep. The safari is exciting over steep climbs, across grasslands and river beds the cliff tower over you all the time.

Forests

The abundance of SAL is evident but the park encompasses some of the finest bamboo slopes and mixed forests. The canopy is dense but withers as one moves along the periphery due to wood logging in the buffer.

Buffer

Once a large contiguous tract of the forest the park is now isolated. Neighboring forests are Pan Patha, Gunghuti and the Sihora Forest ranges at some distance. the forests leading to Amarkantak and Achanakmar belts have been badly denuded hence there is no migration path for any species. All around the reserve forest are in a bad state and hence tiger habitat has been reduced. There are villages surrounding the buffer and within with a large number of livestock. Except for tourism alternative means of survival have not been explored.

Tiger Safari

Tourism in the tiger reserves of Central India is monitored and well-managed. I have seen tiger tourism grow from infancy and simultaneously the wildlife has increased as well. Tourism has benefited local communities which were until then dependent upon infertile lands. The need for accommodation has brought in many hotels. The established hotels of Bandhavgarh employ a large number of youth. Most of these are from the local communities. Many get employment in the forest department as guides, chara cutters, guards and naturalists, etc. Plus the park is a nature library many tourists come and go with a greater understanding of nature, admiration for other life forms, and a desire to conserve valuable heritage.

The Tiger

It has been one hell of a journey for the beleaguered animal. It has been ignominiously pushed back to small pockets along with associates. We have never ceased to destroy nature, we have overpowered other life forms and taken their land away. The majestic cat is a silent and helpless observer as the axe continues to ravage his kingdoms all over the country.

Big Cats - Downslide continues

In spite of strong conservation measures, the big cats in Central India continue to lose ground. The tragic death of the Jhurjura tigress at Bandhavgarh and the poaching of leopards at Sijhora and at Satpura Tiger Reserve are heartbreaking.

For many, these are mere statistics and news items but for wildlife lovers, this is distressing. What is frightening is the manner and number in which leopards are being killed. The animals are bold and dare venture near human habitation with ease albeit at times under duress. The primary targets are livestock, tame dogs, and often poultry.

The leopard is the first to face the scourge of locals who cannot bear to lose livestock. I have witnessed at Kanha National Park one such incident of cattle-killing by a leopard. Luckily the carcass was moved to human precincts in order to avoid poison killing the cat. So many such incidents occur all over India and are a regular feature at the periphery of National Parks like Kanha Kisli near Mandla, Bandhavgarh, and Pench Tiger Reserve.

At times ire of locals is understandable but it is a man who is the trespasser in areas reserved for other life forms. In order to manage over broad human population we are putting a lot of stress on our natural resources and the future is bleak.

Continued intrusion in leftover ecosystems and destruction of habit is an ongoing features and there is little hope for the beleaguered animals. Due to a lack of proper planning, implementation, and innovative approach, the problems in and around protected areas are taking a demonic form.

The lack of political will is most unsurprisingly due to fear of losing popularity and hence vote bank. This is quite evident in the case of relocation programs in tiger reserves and wildlife sanctuaries all over India. It is clearly man before animals and disregard for other life forms. The wild animals in India are third-grade citizens or maybe lower down.

The big cats are losing ground but the main reason at present seems to be man-animal conflict, and demand for tiger parts and skins, especially in Tibet and China. And our inability to provide physical protection to the endangered species closeted in small pockets augurs the death knell. We are clearly helpless in guarding our forests and precious wildlife.

In last two decades, solutions from all sources have been sought but there is none. Why not take the bull by the horns and catch the poacher red-handed followed by stringent punitive measures.